Advice on Table Saw

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Forum topic by marsbuilt posted 06-11-2017 03:30 PM 792 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View marsbuilt's profile


3 posts in 959 days

06-11-2017 03:30 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw advice rigid dayton beismer


I am finally buying a table saw and would very much appreciate your advice. I make typically build speaker cabinets, road cases out of .5” ply and am exploring a credenza furniture piece next.

I have narrowed it down to these two:

Rigid jobsite table saw:


Dayton w/ Beismer fence :

either way, it will be a huge improvement from what I am doing now… which is ripping very carefully with a skil saw.

Thank you!

11 replies so far

View marsbuilt's profile


3 posts in 959 days

#1 posted 06-11-2017 04:23 PM

Well, it took two days for this post to get approved and I really needed to move on this and take advantage of the weekend. I never heard from the owner of the dayton saw, which I know now is the better of the two.

Ended up with the Ridgid, which is this one… think it is an older model from around ‘04. I paid $100.

Having a bit of buyers remorse as my continued research has shown that ripping 4×8 ply is really not all that easy with a table saw and my existing approach (circular saw and guide) is spot on.

I currently do the finger joints with a router, but they are 3/8” and since I make “big boxes” I was hoping to move up into the 3/4” range for the fingers. Not sure if I really need to.

Hmm. Live and learn. Trying to decide if I should drop more money into this saw for a dado set, plate as doing finger joints is one of the main goals that I was hoping for. I am having a hard time finding parts for this saw. Perhaps I should try and resell it and opt for something better.

I did end up cleaning the gargae out to make space for the saw and an outfeed table, so I am feeling pretty good about that!

What do you guys think?

View Woodknack's profile


13019 posts in 2988 days

#2 posted 06-11-2017 05:11 PM

Table saws offer precision but bench top saws like you bought are built to throw in the back of a truck and haul to job sites so there are a lot of compromises. With saws you typically get what you pay for.

-- Rick M,

View rodneywt1180b's profile


185 posts in 994 days

#3 posted 06-11-2017 05:11 PM

I use a skilsaw and guide to break down sheet goods when I need to but like to make my finish cuts on the table saw. Much more accurate and cleaner with the right blade.

You can do some things to get better performance out of your saw. I would consider losing the mobile base and making a good solid base with a bunch of weight (like a couple sacks of concrete) in it to make the saw more stable. Light weight is good if you’re moving it around but heavy is good for stability. It wouldn’t hurt to have a box under the saw to collect the sawdust either. Good side extensions and a good outfeed table will also help a lot.

It looks like you should be able to make your own zero clearance inserts and dado plate for your saw depending on how they fit in it. That or make a good cross cut sled. A dado set will transfer to your next 10” saw too so you won’t lose money there.

I’d use it for now but start saving for a good used Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw. You’ll eventually want to upgrade.

-- Rodney, Centralia, WA, USA

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 3579 days

#4 posted 06-11-2017 05:44 PM

Not sure of the dado capacity of this saw. Some of those jobsite type saws are limited to smaller sets or some won’t allow any dado blades. Depends on the arbor.

View eric4716's profile


51 posts in 1077 days

#5 posted 06-11-2017 07:01 PM

I don’t think your table saw is a complete waste. You could build and mount it onto a solid stand. If you are wanting to rip plyboard on it, I would build an extension table for one side of it and an outfeed table for support with the plyboard exiting the saw. You can build the extension and outfeed table to be the same level as the surface of your table saw. If you will eventually replace the saw, you can build these very basic out of 2×4s and the top with plyboard. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy. That way you can get your desired use out of the saw for now until you move onto something better.

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 1199 days

#6 posted 06-11-2017 07:18 PM

the circular saw is indispensible for cutting plywood into smaller pieces even if you have a table saw. The quality of cut however is not nearly close to what a table saw makes. So you did good. Cut plywood with your circular saw and then fine cut it on the table saw.And do not let snobs like me and others to mock your saw and talk you into buying a $1000+ cabinet saw. For what you do that Ridgid is plenty

View patcollins's profile


1687 posts in 3473 days

#7 posted 06-11-2017 07:19 PM

I came pretty close to buying a dewalt jobsite saw instead of the larger saw that I bought. I was going to do something similar to this.

There are a lot of different things you can do to help, here is another good one

View diverlloyd's profile


3760 posts in 2465 days

#8 posted 06-11-2017 07:20 PM

+1 on Eric’s post.
A 4×8 sheet is a pain to do anything with by yourself unless you have a couple tables built to help you mi e them around and catch the off cuts after. The wood working show on pbs had a build for a handle to help move around full sheets.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4256 days

#9 posted 06-11-2017 07:36 PM

If your work runs to large boxes you might
consider a guided circular saw system. I’ve
had both Festool and Ez-smart and they are
both very good with different pros and cons
for each.

View marsbuilt's profile


3 posts in 959 days

#10 posted 06-11-2017 09:31 PM

Thanks everybody! I really appreciate the words of wisdom and love learning about this stuff. I started building out of necessity and very quickly there has been interests and requests from other players in my circle. So now I am trying to make the design and production more efficient.

If the guy with the dayton saw ever replies, what are your thoughts on that one? :

Re. making a dado plate.. would I run the saw without the supplied plate and place and secure a sheet of mdf atop blade the with a routed space to accommodate the dado blade set… or something along those lines?

Re. finger joints for larger boxes. Is there a rule of thumb on how large or small the fingers should be? My cab’s are about of 29”x25”x25”.

View patcollins's profile


1687 posts in 3473 days

#11 posted 06-11-2017 10:37 PM

Re. finger joints for larger boxes. Is there a rule of thumb on how large or small the fingers should be? My cab s are about of 29”x25”x25”.

- marsbuilt

Really anything 1/4” and larger is plenty strong enough, the really large ones look a bit strange but can make a nice joint still.

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