10 in, B&D Table Saw Short Spindle

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Forum topic by Odge posted 06-07-2017 07:56 PM 1387 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Odge's profile


4 posts in 1132 days

06-07-2017 07:56 PM

I have a 10 in B&D Table Saw on a stand. The spindle only allows me to use up to 1/2 in Dado blade. Is there anyway that the spindle can be changed out to a longer one so that I can go up to at least a 3/4 dado. Or maybe it would be cheaper or easier to buy a new saw?? Has anyone did something like this before or is it even possible?

10 replies so far

View MT_Stringer's profile


3183 posts in 4009 days

#1 posted 06-07-2017 08:02 PM

Same goes for my little DeWalt. It isn’t made for a dado stack. I have used a pair of 7 1/4 inch rip blades to cut grooves for drawer bottoms, but there isn’t enough threads to safely go any thicker.

How about and exact width dado router sled? Mine works great and you get perfect dadoes.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4426 days

#2 posted 06-07-2017 08:04 PM

Most Black and Decker table saws I have seen
available are direct drive units and changing
out the spindle is not possible.

In any case, most B&D models are entry-level
saws and you’ll get a good deal more benefits
than the longer arbor of a contractor saw
with a belt drive.

View MrUnix's profile


8099 posts in 2977 days

#3 posted 06-07-2017 08:32 PM

What model saw? Like Loren said, the only B&D saws I’ve seen are the cheap plastic universal screamer motor saws, and they generally will not be suitable for a dado stack of any size – and the manual should state one way or another. It’s not the arbor is too short, but the pseudo-direct drive plastic housed motor can not handle the forces involved.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Odge's profile


4 posts in 1132 days

#4 posted 06-08-2017 02:09 PM

Thanks for the input guys. After doing a thorough examination, I agree with Loren. This has a direct drive and there
is just no way the arbor or spindle can be changed. Guess I will have to continue to make two passes on all my dadoes over 1/2 in. I pulled out a 10 in Skil-saw that I had stuck away and it has the same problem. Should have noticed this when I bought them but back then I didn’t know what a dado or rabbet was.:):)

View runswithscissors's profile


3100 posts in 2803 days

#5 posted 06-09-2017 04:06 AM

A 3/4” thick dado stack has a lot of mass, and the light construction of job site saws may be overstressed by it. A 6” dado stack would be better in that case than an 8”. But it’s a moot point with the short spindle, so never mind.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View knotscott's profile


8382 posts in 4154 days

#6 posted 06-09-2017 09:36 AM

It won’t handle the mass long enough to bother.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

24806 posts in 3884 days

#7 posted 06-09-2017 11:58 AM

Double cutting is not all that bad on a table saw. You usually have to do it when using the “NEW” plywood that is much smaller than nominal. Use a narrow stack and move the fence to get the exact width!!
I use a wobble dago to dial in the “NEW” thickness, but the wobble will not fit on a short shaft table saw either.

cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Odge's profile


4 posts in 1132 days

#8 posted 06-09-2017 02:16 PM

You are right Jim about the double cutting. I’ve been sneaking up on it with the second cut to get the correct width I need. I just thought with a 3/4 dado blade I could set my sacrificial fence to exactly where I wanted with a scrap
piece and be all set to cut with one pass. But like you guys said, this size saw is not designed for and wouldn’t take the stress of a 3/4 stack. Oh well, it was just a thought. Nothing ventured-nothing gained! I’m sure you all know this but
there is a 3/4 router bit made strickly for the “new” 3/4 plywood. Haven’t tried one but seen it in action on one of the woodworking shows I watch. It gives a nice snug fit. I might try that and see how it goes.

I’m putting this to bed. Thanks guys for all your help.

View MT_Stringer's profile


3183 posts in 4009 days

#9 posted 06-09-2017 05:29 PM

@ Odge – I guess you skimmed past my suggestion to use an exact width dado jig for your router. You do have a router, huh? :-)

For dadoes wider that 1/2 inch, you can’t go wrong. No need to worry about buying router bits for undersized plywood.

Make the sled and get after it. All you need is a 1/2 inch pattern bit. Yep, just like routing the inside of a template for anything else. And the jig is adjustable. Or, you can make a simple one time jig. Think man, think! :-)

I made my jig based on the one The Wood Whisperer demonstrated in his you tube video. Only difference is, I have my knobs on the top side of the jig so I can clamp it in place.

Note: I have built a lot of cabinets using this method, and regardless of the thickness, I get a perfect dado every time. I do admit to boogering up the mdf guide a few times, but a little Bondo and some sanding fixes that every time.

Here are some pics of mine. Hope this helps.

Need to add a stop block? No problem.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Odge's profile


4 posts in 1132 days

#10 posted 06-09-2017 11:57 PM

Stringer-You are right, after reading what you said about the table saw I simply overlook your statement about the
router sled. After looking at your diagram, it looks simple enough to make. What I like about it is that you can make
whatever width you want with a simple adjustment. Thanks for the tip and the reminder.

PS Yeah, I go a router. :):) one table and one plunge

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