Designing rolling stand for Craftsman 113 table saw

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by 1tacoshort posted 06-07-2017 01:45 AM 4442 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View 1tacoshort's profile


45 posts in 1656 days

06-07-2017 01:45 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw stand diy

Hi all,

I’ve got a Craftsman 113 table saw and it’s on those flimsy sheet metal legs with tiny rollers on the bottom. Unfortunately, the rollers are honked up and the legs are a little bent (it’s an ancient saw), so it’s really a stationary saw that I laboriously drag around my garage. So, I’m trying to come up with a design for a stand that I can build. I’ve searched the net and for ideas (I didn’t find much for table saws) and I’ve been working on some plans but I have a few questions:

1) The sheet metal legs are about 10” wider in each direction on the bottom as they are where they join the saw so I figure a rectangular base that extends straight down from the saw would be unstable and want to fall over. Should that be a concern or would this design solution be fine?

2) The saw seems pretty heavy. Is a 3/4” plywood box, open at the front, and without supports directly under the saw going to hold the saw or (and this is my tendency—I can’t really spell “engineer” without “OVER”) do I have to engineer the crap out of the thing to make sure that it doesn’t collapse?

3) About casters: I’ve seen a lot of people in favor of four lockable swivel casters. My concern with that approach is that all the casters will be pointing back toward me after pushing the saw to its work location. That puts two casters sticking out where I can get at them and two hidden under the stand. How do people lock the casters that are under the stand? Do the get on their hands and knees and rotate those casters by hand? There has to be a better way.

4) Have I missed the ideal solution out there, somewhere (plans or, even, an aftermarket stand—I’d really rather go back to making furniture rather than stands for my shop equipment)?

Thanks, everybody!

-- Wade

9 replies so far

View eric4716's profile


51 posts in 1246 days

#1 posted 06-07-2017 02:04 AM

I am looking to do something similar for an outfeed table for my table saw. Have you considered the lifting casters that lift the stand onto the rollers until you get it into place and then drops the saw base back down onto the floor so it rests on the legs? You could mount them on the inner sides of the legs so they don’t stick out.

View martyoc's profile


44 posts in 1694 days

#2 posted 06-07-2017 02:09 AM

Could you make a base with the legs fastened on top with retracting casters.

-- Marty O'C

View 1tacoshort's profile


45 posts in 1656 days

#3 posted 06-07-2017 03:40 AM

My dad has some stands that have the lift-onto-them variety of casters. Those are pretty nifty.

-- Wade

View HokieKen's profile


14088 posts in 1916 days

#4 posted 06-07-2017 04:29 PM

I built a stand sort of like you’re looking at for my TS a couple of years ago. I don’t have any pictures of the stand specifically but, here’s the back of it:

And you can see the front in the background of these photos:

To address your concerns:

  • 3/4” Plywood should be plenty strong enough. I built mine bigger than necessary to have some storage so I put a vertical support under the saw. If mine wasn’t so wide, I don’t think it would be necessary. I also made a frame from construction lumber for the base. I think it was overkill though, I probably could have got by without the added stiffness.
  • I used four double-locking swivel casters. With double-locking casters, it’s only necessary to lock 2 to prevent movement. So I just lock whichever 2 are easiest to get to.
  • If you’re not making your stand over-sized like I did, you will want to be careful about tipping. Ideally, if you draw a straight line from the center of your saw (actually the center of mass but probably close to the same thing) to the bottom edge of the stand, it should form a 45 degree or less angle with the horizontal. However, you can get by with significantly less that that. Basically, it’s just a matter of figuring it out. You have to consider the size and weight of what you’ll be cutting, whether or not your floor is flat/level and how much force you’ll be pushing on the saw with. Another, more space-saving way to address this is to simply use the bottom of the stand for storing something heavy or put a couple of sandbags on it. That drops the center of mass close to the ground and generally eliminates any concerns of tipping.

Hope this helps some!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View dschlic1's profile


471 posts in 2747 days

#5 posted 06-07-2017 05:39 PM

I have a 113 saw also. I use a Harbor Freight mobile base. Works great, doesn’t cost an arm and a leg and because of how it sits on the base the sheet metal legs are braced at the bottom. I highly recommend going this way.

View 1tacoshort's profile


45 posts in 1656 days

#6 posted 06-08-2017 04:24 AM

Thanks, guys!

-- Wade

View BenMac's profile


38 posts in 577 days

#7 posted 12-13-2018 05:47 AM

Hi all,

New to the forum and wanted to ask a related follow up question on this thread. I too am buying a craftsman 113 this weekend. Its a belt drive with cast iron table and skeletal extensions, so I know it’ll weight a ton. Because of my very limited garage space, my plan is to remove the legs and inegrate it into the end of a mobile workbench similar to this one, but i’m worried that much weight on one end will be hard to counterbalance. The other side will be topped w/ 2 sheets of 3/4” of ply and 1sheet of MDF, plus a miter saw, but i dont know if thats enough weight? Any thoughts? I guess I could build the base and casters (rated for 800lbs) to extend further out past the edge of the table if necessary. Would love any thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks! -Ben!

View HokieKen's profile


14088 posts in 1916 days

#8 posted 12-13-2018 01:15 PM

Ben – as long as your casters are spread like the one in the pic, you’ll be fine. Anything similar to the one in the pic should be rock solid and capable of handling much more weight than your saw.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View clin's profile


1113 posts in 1774 days

#9 posted 12-13-2018 06:58 PM

There is no need to counter balance. The saw is “inside” the castors. So there won’t be any tendency to lift the table. It may be a little heavier at that end, sort of like the engine makes the front of a car heavier. But I don’t see a problem. Plus, with a table that large and heavily constructed, the saw weight is not very significant.

-- Clin

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics