Glue for laminated bowls

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodturning forum

Forum topic by kmetzger posted 06-05-2017 02:37 PM 2635 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View kmetzger's profile


189 posts in 2425 days

06-05-2017 02:37 PM

I’ve been turning 14” laminated bowls lately and can’t figure out why the blanks keep going out of true in the process. The wood I’m using for gluing up the laminates is bone dry tropical hardwoods, air-dried here in Mexico.On my first one I used Gorilla glue and sprayed too much water on the adjoining laminates and the wood moved constantly while turning. Lesson learned. So on the one I’m working on now I used Titebond III and I’m having a similar problem. Not quite as bad but enough to be annoying. I wasn’t sure that regular yellow glue would hold up when the bowl is washed.

Any suggestions?

-- Kim, Ajijic, Mexico,

8 replies so far

View TheDane's profile


5728 posts in 4270 days

#1 posted 06-05-2017 04:04 PM

Titebond III is the appropriate glue for this application.

In my experience, problems like this relate to other lack of flatness or inadequate clamping/curing time.

If the adjoining pieces aren’t dead flat, the glue joint can fail. I have a drum sander and make sure the pieces I am laminating are dead flat, then spread a thin coat of glue on both sides before clamping.

I let the glue in my laminations cure at least overnight, longer if possible. Though the joint will bond in a much shorter time, full curing takes much longer.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Woodknack's profile


13017 posts in 2987 days

#2 posted 06-05-2017 04:17 PM

My experience with TB3 is that it shrinks and turns dark making it very noticeable in turnings. I’ve heard the same from other woodturners. I use it only for outdoor projects. But I’m not sure if TB2 holds up to submersion. I think that you will need to seal the wood anyway if that is a concern.

-- Rick M,

View kmetzger's profile


189 posts in 2425 days

#3 posted 06-05-2017 04:18 PM

Thanks, Gerry. The laminates were milled on the jointer and thickness planer and were perfectly flat, no gaps. It looks like I started turning the blanks too soon after the initial gluing. I’ll do it your way next time.

-- Kim, Ajijic, Mexico,

View Wildwood's profile


2793 posts in 2742 days

#4 posted 06-05-2017 07:23 PM

Does your problem have anything to do with glue line creep? Think read if the article will find some answers as well as what has already been provided. Posted a picture of my only glued up turning couple years ago. While didn’t experience any creep it can be annoying for turners that do lot of laminating.

-- Bill

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4255 days

#5 posted 06-05-2017 07:41 PM

I don’t know much about turning but I have
found plastic resin glue dries hard and stable.
It is the sort used in plywood generally.

View kmetzger's profile


189 posts in 2425 days

#6 posted 06-05-2017 09:52 PM

I checked out the article on glue creep. Very good. Here’s another one:
“The bowl is allowed to sit for another 30 days after it is assembled. We have
added a lot of moisture into the wood around the glue joints. This wait allows
the assembly to achieve a uniform moisture content and for the adhesive to
TOTALLY cure. Yes, glues develop enough strength that it can be handled in a
short period and we hear folks talking about such things as waiting 5, 10, 20,
or 60 minutes. But, a 100% cure of the adhesive will take up to 30 days or

-- Kim, Ajijic, Mexico,

View OSU55's profile (online now)


2505 posts in 2597 days

#7 posted 06-06-2017 04:19 PM

Glued and turned a lot of segmented turnings, all with tblll. I prefer the darker glue line to the more noticeable line from yellow. Gorilla pva dries pretty clear. Prefer to allow the fully glued piece to sit for at least 24 hrs, longer if cold / humid. Prefer to rough cut the shape, then let the piece sit for a day or 2 to stabilize, longer if its a “show” piece. Never had an issue with creep in the short term. After a year or 2, almost all pieces have at least some minor creep, i.e. , a very small line can be felt. Final wall thickness plays into it – thin walls 1/8” or less) dont have as much glue surface left and with a little moisture moving in and out, things creep. Wider walls with more glue surface are more stable.

View Wildwood's profile


2793 posts in 2742 days

#8 posted 06-06-2017 04:27 PM

Kim like the link you posted thanks!

-- Bill

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics