Need suggestions on a TS zero clearance insert

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Forum topic by WoodenSoldier posted 11-15-2010 06:13 AM 2086 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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161 posts in 3451 days

11-15-2010 06:13 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw zero clearance insert hitachi

Hoping I can gain a little advice from the vast experience of some of the folks here:
I’d like to put a zero clearance insert into my Hitachi table saw but it doesn’t seem very well designed for it. The current insert is metal and very thin. If I were to make I new one, I can’t see anything to mount it to. The recessed lip that the current one sits on is maybe a 1/4 inch (probably less).
I thought maybe I could mount something to the blade shroud? Has anybody had any similar experiences.
In the pictures, the current insert is the red rectangle to the right.



Thanks for any help!

-- Create something everyday.

9 replies so far

View JAGWAH's profile


929 posts in 3590 days

#1 posted 11-15-2010 06:18 AM

You might consider the metal thickness and see if 1 or 2 layers of formica glued together can be used. Drill the holes, mount , move your fence over the insert so it doesn’t move up and slowly raise what blade you use into the material. Viola! Insert.

i’ve done similar for an old Makita I used to have.

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

View JimDaddyO's profile


618 posts in 3585 days

#2 posted 11-15-2010 03:36 PM

I have a similar situation and made mine from 2 pieces. The top is lexan or polycarbonite and the same thickness as the orignal metal part. Then I made the bottom part that goes into the hole from ply and contact cemented them together.

-- my blog: my You Tube channel:

View Roger's profile


21011 posts in 3310 days

#3 posted 11-15-2010 04:19 PM

Yup. What Jagwah said….. If a 10” blade is too tall when you try n raise it up through your new insert, you could use a smaller diameter blade. Either use your fence to keep it down when raising the blade up (slowly), or just clamp a scap piece of 2×4 or anything across the table to hold the insert down while the blade is coming up through.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected]

View Radu's profile


333 posts in 3549 days

#4 posted 11-15-2010 04:45 PM

Just watch the blade flange while you raise the blade up. (don’t ask me how I know it). I built mine out of two pieces (look under my projects)

View Cato's profile


701 posts in 3819 days

#5 posted 11-15-2010 04:49 PM

Maybe some 1/4 inch hardboard would work, otherwise wise you may have to plane down to thickness of your OEM.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2742 posts in 3428 days

#6 posted 11-16-2010 04:03 PM

” rout out the bottom side where the lips are to allow it to sit flush.” <<<<<< Good advice! When raising the running blade up though the new insert place the fence near the blade to hold the inseret down while cutting it from below.

-- No PHD just a DD214

View FreddyS's profile


212 posts in 3280 days

#7 posted 11-16-2010 07:17 PM

Hi, I just made a zci for my cheapo ryobi TS routing out lips etc. on the back of the plate and tested until it fitted correctly.

Btw. I used 1/2” plywood and the left side of the plate ended up being too thin so the blade took off small chunks of the bottom layer on the ply (cheapo ply maybe?), I just looked around for the pieces I could find and glued them back in place, also gave the thin side a coat of glue and it made it stiffer.

In your TS it looks like left side spacing is really thin, if going with routing, you may want to use 3/4” or 1/2” x 2 glued up together for extra support, looks like there’s enough space below.

-- Learning one thing at a time

View spunwood's profile


1202 posts in 3342 days

#8 posted 11-16-2010 07:30 PM

I believe if you call leecraft they may have one built for your table saw just recently.

-- I came, I was conquered, I was born again. ἵνα ὦσιν ἓν

View WoodenSoldier's profile


161 posts in 3451 days

#9 posted 11-23-2010 07:19 AM

Thanks for all the great advice!

-- Create something everyday.

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