Jointer restoration

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Forum topic by Penguin3113 posted 05-02-2017 01:20 PM 1030 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 1001 days

05-02-2017 01:20 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I recently purchased an old Jet 6” Jointer that had been sitting for several years. It runs great and will flatten a piece of wood. However there was a considerable amount of surface rust. Without doing any research I turned to cleaning it up. I cleaned the table and the fence and the cuter head had considerable rust between a couple of the blades. I removed the blades and scrubbed the cutter heads. The blades outside of being rusted appear to be in good shape not nicks and relatively sharp. The head itself outside of the rust is in good shape. Here is my questions when I went to put the blades back in something I have never done before all of the videos I watched on how to do this show all of this work prior to taking them out that I did not do.

-My infeed and outfeed tables are in plane
-Do I need to put the blades back in the slot they came from? I did not mark them but I think I figured it not, not 100% sure
-Should I replace the blades or sharpen them?
-Can I sharpen them on a stone or do I need to take them somewhere?
-Should I buy one of the Jigs to put them back in place?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am just getting started in woodworking and ran into a sale where I was able to buy a lot of equipment at a relatively low price. I want to get it all up and running ingot shape with the care they deserve.

4 replies so far

View Holbs's profile


2262 posts in 2641 days

#1 posted 05-02-2017 01:28 PM

1.) I do not THINK you have to put the same blades back in original blade slots, I did not. As you fine tune height settings of all blades in the end anyways.
2 and3.) replace/sharpen. I have a local place that sharpens the knives for less then $20 so took them there. But many make a planer & jointer knife jig to sharpen them on sandpaper & scary sharp method with fantastic results. I’ve not yet replaced any jointer or planer knives.
4.) those jigs are 50/50. Many like them, I think they are trash. They are perfect to get them in a rough position, but any tightening of gibs knocks them out of alignment and you have to fine tune with other methods beyond the said jig.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

View Rich's profile


5157 posts in 1201 days

#2 posted 05-02-2017 02:32 PM

I have a 6” Jet too that I bought 20 years ago or so. Probably the same model you have. Which blade goes in which slot doesn’t matter. I did mark each slot on the head so that I can keep track of which one I’m working on when I set the blades.

The magnetic jig of mine works beautifully. I have a Oneway Multi-Gauge that I use to check that the blades are at the proper height when I’m done. Since it’s a dial indicator, I can roll the head back and forth to see where it tops out. I also use it to set the infeed table for depth of cut. For the magnetic jig, you need to find top dead center and scribe it on the fence in order to get the jig in place properly.

The jig isn’t magic, but if you use it according to the instructions, it does the job.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Aj2's profile


2657 posts in 2409 days

#3 posted 05-02-2017 11:06 PM

If you want to set the knives fast use the stick drag method.I prefer to set jointer knives with a dial indicator when all the knives are cutting they will last longer and less tear out.
I tried magnets once and it didn’t work good enough for me.
My friend has a jet jointer with indexable knives the steel seems pretty good too.


-- Aj

View Penguin3113's profile


2 posts in 1001 days

#4 posted 05-05-2017 05:13 AM

Thank you all for your advice. The blades are getting sharpened I will let you know how the instillation goes

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