glue blocks

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Forum topic by Karda posted 03-20-2017 06:21 PM 1020 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2366 posts in 1362 days

03-20-2017 06:21 PM

is there any special glue for glueing to a face plate or extending a spindal

6 replies so far

View TheDane's profile (online now)


5829 posts in 4471 days

#1 posted 03-20-2017 06:28 PM

I use Titebond I (original in the bottle with the red label.

Just to be clear, you do not glue directly to the spindle or faceplate.

You use a metal faceplate that is screwed to the wood waste/glue block with #12 sheet metal screws, face off the glue block, then glue your workpiece to the glue block.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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8162 posts in 3007 days

#2 posted 03-20-2017 06:29 PM

For a metal face plate, you use screws. For a wood face plate/glue block, regular PVA glue is fine. Some will additionally put a piece of paper (like from a paper grocery bag) to aid in removal, but I’ve never found that necessary and just part it off as usual.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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2366 posts in 1362 days

#3 posted 03-20-2017 06:38 PM

thanks I have watched some UTubes where it is mentioned as an option but they cave no specifics about the glue

View xunil76's profile


31 posts in 1273 days

#4 posted 03-23-2017 12:17 PM

from all the videos i’ve watched on woodturning, i’ve noticed that there are typically 3 types of glue used:

1) wood glue (should be pretty evident what this is for…to bond 2 pieces of wood together securely)
2) CA glue (a.k.a., superglue. used primarily to stabilize wood to keep it from chipping/cracking further and fill in cracks/voids while mixed with sawdust)
3) hot glue (mostly used to temporarily glue pieces onto waste blocks for turning when other attachment methods are unavailable)

if you want the best bond to the waste block and don’t mind waiting for it to fully cure, then wood glue between your work piece and the waste block (both properly cleaned & trued-up, mind you) is going to be the best bond.

if you can’t or don’t want to wait for wood glue to cure, then hot glue can be used between your work piece and the waste block, assuming your work piece is not too heavy. this makes it much quicker to get started on your work and much easier to remove the piece when you’re done…BUT….it will never hold as well as wood glue, and has a higher chance of coming off the waste block while you’re turning.

i would never use CA/superglue to hold a piece on a faceplate/wasteblock…that’s not what it was designed for, it won’t hold up to much side-loading while simultaneously supporting the work piece, and it will stay behind on the piece of work when it’s removed. keep CA glue where it’s supposed to be: filling in small cracks/voids and stabilizing punky/cracked wood, or being used as a finish for small things like pens & bottle stoppers.

i’m sure there are other types of glue used, but these are going to be the bulk of what woodturners use on a regular basis

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702 posts in 2109 days

#5 posted 03-23-2017 12:47 PM

For dry to dry .. wood glue (Titebond or other).
For dry to wet (green) it won’t work. Use CA which will set on wet wood.
Look up Lyle Jamieson on youtube for details of using CA. I don’t think he ever uses a chuck at all.

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

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1727 posts in 2538 days

#6 posted 03-23-2017 02:43 PM

Lyle doesn’t use chucks because they don’t hold…... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

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