Milling and edge joining wood question

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Forum topic by unclearthur posted 03-19-2017 06:47 AM 683 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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383 posts in 2870 days

03-19-2017 06:47 AM

A couple of I guess basic questions,

I started with a few maple and cherry 8/4 boards, about 6” wide and 18” long. Face planed and edge jointed then, then planed them down to 1 5/8. Then I ripped them into about 1-2” strips. Everything seemed flat and square.

Next day I went to edge glue them together (alternating the maple and cherry), and just about every board needed to be re-jointed to eliminate gaps between the boards. All the boards I thought were pretty flat now had small twists or bows.

Question 1: Poor technique or could the boards move that much in a day due to stress release following ripping? Should you not be able to go straight from a TS rip to the glue table? Or should you always assume you will be re-jointing / planing after ripping?

Question 2: When you are edge joining boards (e.g. tabletop, breadboard, etc) what sort of gaps between boards are acceptable ….. I was looking at the gaps with a feeler gauge and though 0.005” sounds very small its very noticeable pre-glueup.

Thanks for your thoughts …..

3 replies so far

View Matt Hegedus's profile

Matt Hegedus

147 posts in 1875 days

#1 posted 03-19-2017 07:23 AM

This happens man. And it varies depending on the tree/flitch/board.

When I built a shaker table last year I noticed the walnut had a lot of tension in it. It was 8/4 as well. So I cut 6 legs and picked the best four.

There have also been times where I had to rejoint every couple days still it stablized. And times when I tried clamping gnarly wood flat, so it would equalize flat and true. If I remember correctly it actually worked.

Welcome to the craft :-)

2. I shoot for under .005”. If it’s a show piece I get em perfect. Back panel or something, not so much. I’d let a 5 thou gap slide.

-- From Pittsburgh, PA

View pontic's profile


824 posts in 1691 days

#2 posted 03-19-2017 03:03 PM

I’ve had cherry boards twist while I was ripping them. I’t depends on the tree drying process and so many factors. Glue them up in small sections until you get the width you want. then re plane. When laminating never plain to final thickness. to allow for twisting.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View Bill White's profile (online now)

Bill White

5350 posts in 5043 days

#3 posted 03-19-2017 03:17 PM

To add to the above good info, I try to allow the ripped/jointer wood to acclimate before any final jointing and glue up. It is all too common to find some dramatic changes in the pieces once they are cut.

-- [email protected]

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