Advice on Attaching Back to Dartboard Cabinet

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Forum topic by chris8 posted 02-06-2017 08:42 PM 635 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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7 posts in 1832 days

02-06-2017 08:42 PM

Kind of stuck between a few options on a challenge I’m having with a project, and hoping to get some ideas.

Building a single door dartboard cabinet from 3/4 mahogany to hang on a patio wall (stucco). The finished cabinet will measure 24” square, 5” deep, and the door has some 18” metal strap hinges, so it is going to be fairly heavy. Haven’t figured out what to do to affix a back to the carcass. The back will be where I mount the cabinet to the wall, and where I mount the dartboard to the cabinet, so it has to have some strength.

My first thought was to overlay a piece of 1/2” ply, but don’t want the exposed edge ruining the look. Then considered edgebanding w/ a couple pieces of mahogany, but worry that would weaken the connection point when attaching the ply to the back of the cabinet (I’m either screwing through the glue joint or using a thicker edge back and screwing through that, but thereby putting a lot of pressure on that glue joint between the edge band and the ply.

I then considered going to 3/4 ply, and mounting inside the box, and attaching by screwing through the side and into the ply with a few screws on each end. I get a cleaner look (minus the screw holes), but not sure about the structural integrity of screwing into the ply like that?

A dado or groove not ideal as that would create a small hollow area between stucco and backing, so I’m worried the darts hitting the board could create an annoying “drum” sound. A rabbet was considered but thought that would also affect structural integrity – more surface space for the glue, but nowhere really to screw in.

Am I missing something here? Any thoughts would be appreciated.


5 replies so far

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17288 posts in 3678 days

#1 posted 02-06-2017 08:55 PM

“A rabbet was considered but thought that would also affect structural integrity – more surface space for the glue, but nowhere really to screw in.”

That statement is very confusing to me. Inlaying the back of your choosing into a rabbet on all four sides is a very strong solution. Glue and brad nails (even countersunk screws if so inclined) will keep the backer in place; four screws into the wall and you’re done.

Unless I’m missing something in your description (a very real possibility).

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

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7 posts in 1832 days

#2 posted 02-06-2017 09:04 PM

I didn’t consider the pin nails. My concern was that the inlaid backer would only extend 3/8 (half of the 3/4 thick side boards), and not provide me enough space to safely countersink the screws. Your answer gives me more confidence in the glue though…

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6784 posts in 1649 days

#3 posted 02-06-2017 09:27 PM

I’m not sure about the drum sound with the darts hitting, but the hollow space you’d get with a dado would be an ideal place to recess a French cleat to hang it, leaving the frame flush to the wall.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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40 posts in 3685 days

#4 posted 02-07-2017 01:43 PM

French cleat was the first thing that popped into my head also. Easy to build, super strong and well hidden.

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747 posts in 1679 days

#5 posted 02-07-2017 07:04 PM

Since you are planning to put this outside, use a waterproof glue like Titebond III. The screw or nails just hold thing together until the glue dries. Modern glues, when used properly, are stronger than the wood.

I had made some Adirondack chairs out of Jarrah a few years ago. We had a severe wind storm here a few weeks back that blew one of those chairs across the yard and into the fence about 50’ away. The joint that broke was glued and screwed together. The screws pulled out without much damage, but the glue ripped pieces of the other board out.

-- Sawdust Maker

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