LumberJocks

Paste Wax w/Tung Oil over Shellac?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by birdsmouth posted 02-06-2017 04:40 PM 1810 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View birdsmouth's profile

birdsmouth

10 posts in 2285 days


02-06-2017 04:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tung oil paste wax low voc question

I know there are lots and lots of questions about tung oil on here, but I could not find this specific problem.

I am working on a Toy Chest made with Ash.

The recipient wanted a low to no voc finish, and a paste wax as the final layer. I painted it with milk paint, but now I am getting super confused reading about all the finishing options. At first I wanted to use a pure tung oil finish – until I realized I would need to wait about a month for it to cure. I am now thinking a coat or two of shellac would give as much or more protection than the tung oil and would dry much faster with little voc’s once it sits for a few days.

My question is: can I make a paste wax using tung oil to use over the shellac? What happens to the tung oil in the mix if I do that?

Help!!

-Jillian


20 replies so far

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

15313 posts in 2052 days


#1 posted 02-06-2017 04:56 PM

Hi Jillian. I’m curious why you would want to mix tung oil into the paste wax? I could see using it OR the shellac but not sure I see the need to use both. The shellac should act as a sealer coat for your paint and paste wax will give a little added protection against normal wear and tear. If it were me, I’d put a couple coats of shellac on and then paste wax and leave the tung oil out all together. I’ve never used Tung oil though so perhaps it has some usefulness in this situation that I’m unaware of. Good luck!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View birdsmouth's profile

birdsmouth

10 posts in 2285 days


#2 posted 02-06-2017 05:15 PM

Hi Kenny,

I am going to make my own batch of paste wax, and I have seen recipes that include tung oil. My reason for making my own is so that I can make a zero voc version. Looks to me like any homemade paste wax incorporates a good amount of oil at a ratio around 3 parts oil to one part wax. What I am wondering is, would tung oil be a good choice or should I choose another oil? I guess I’m also wondering what becomes of the oil in paste wax in general…does it penetrate or can it evaporate?

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

3156 posts in 3858 days


#3 posted 02-06-2017 05:31 PM

On tung oil, first comes the question of if it’s really tung oil. Next is if the hardening oil has been treated. If it has, it shouldn’t need but a few days to harden.

I’m in the camp of “why mix …” Finish, then wax, though it won’t be tough finish and will abhore water.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

15313 posts in 2052 days


#4 posted 02-06-2017 05:35 PM

Ahhh, now I understand :-) Probably a question better suited for someone more educated than I. I use Johnson’s paste wax on lots of things but never really dug into the composition. I do know that some folks make a finishing wax using either paraffin or bees wax melted and mixed with turpentine. Might give you the desired protection without the need to add any oil.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2658 posts in 2903 days


#5 posted 02-06-2017 05:35 PM

Lots of voc’s in shellac, since that seems to be a requirement. Water borne finishes will have lower voc’s, and work well over paint. Look at mcguire’s synthetic sealant instead of wax. Waxes Im familiar with all have voc solvents to soften for application. Could try pure beeswax applied with a buffer.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

680 posts in 1662 days


#6 posted 02-06-2017 05:50 PM

Milk paint is some pretty tough paint. I just put paste wax on it, after the couple of paint coats dry.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

3156 posts in 3858 days


#7 posted 02-06-2017 05:52 PM

For turnings that will not see wear, I use a mix linseed or tung oil, and dentured alcoho and shellac. It is quick, but it is as durable as it is easy.l

View birdsmouth's profile

birdsmouth

10 posts in 2285 days


#8 posted 02-06-2017 05:53 PM

Kirk650,

I have also read that milk paint is tough stuff. I know it’s very hard to remove once it is applied to wood!!

Do you have any thoughts on a low/no voc wax I could use over the milk paint? Have you ever heard of using tung oil in a homemade paste wax recipe? I have been scouring the internet about that last question, and I just can’t seem to land anywhere. I think I am going to call Hope’s and see what they have to say about it.

View birdsmouth's profile

birdsmouth

10 posts in 2285 days


#9 posted 02-06-2017 05:54 PM

Kelly,

Can you tell me more about that process? When you use tung oil, do you wait for it to cure before you apply your shellac?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6558 posts in 3407 days


#10 posted 02-06-2017 05:58 PM

Kenny, I’m not a chemist (or ChE) but as I understand it, DNA is not considered a VOC….shellac should meet his requirements.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View birdsmouth's profile

birdsmouth

10 posts in 2285 days


#11 posted 02-06-2017 06:12 PM

I just called Rust Oleum customer service, and they told me that their Bullseye Shellac is non-toxic and hypoallergenic when cured which takes about a day and a half. The rep told me to give it 3 days to be sure.

Now all I have to figure out is this paste wax question…I called The Hope Company regarding Hope’s Tung Oil, and no one could answer my question which seems kinda weird.

I imagine just plain beeswax would be extremely difficult to apply, thus the oil content in the diy recipes I have seen.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

680 posts in 1662 days


#12 posted 02-06-2017 06:30 PM

Birdsmouth, once the paint or varnish or wax dries and cures, there should be no more VOC’s. And are there any VOC’s in milk paint anyway. It’s water based. I need to google that up. And I think you said the customer wants a paste wax on the toy box. If that’s what he wants, why are you so concerned about what wax to use? Just use plain old Johnson paste wax. I have an assortment of waxes, but that’s the one I use most. Goes on easy, not tough to shine up when dry, and it doesn’t streak much.

View birdsmouth's profile

birdsmouth

10 posts in 2285 days


#13 posted 02-06-2017 06:38 PM

Kirk650,

Yep, milk paint has zero voc’s. I want to finish the outside and inside of this box and it seems to me that if I use a wax like Johnson’s, especially on the inside of the box, there will be a lingering solvent smell which is something the recipient definitely can’t have.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

680 posts in 1662 days


#14 posted 02-06-2017 09:00 PM

Melt beeswax into warm Walnut oil. Without going out to the workshop to sniff the Walnut oil, I don’t remember it having an odor. Beeswax has a slight and very pleasant odor. That may be as close as you get to odorless.

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1483 posts in 1730 days


#15 posted 02-07-2017 04:23 AM

Sounds to me like you have agreed to use a finish schedule that has so many limitations it may be unworkable. You have quite a science project ahead of you trying to develop a new and untried finishing process. I would advise against experimenting with the actual project. You need to prove the process on scrap material.

showing 1 through 15 of 20 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com