9" Delta Bench Band Saw - I'm obviously doing something wrong...

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Forum topic by Mogebier posted 08-20-2010 06:23 PM 6861 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mogebier's profile


170 posts in 4043 days

08-20-2010 06:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

I got this Bandsaw because it was a good small size, and I don’t have a lot of room. I have adjusted everything, and the tension is correct, but I can’t cut a straight line to save my flipping life. I even took the Bandsaw class at Woodcraft.
I draw a line on any size piece of wood, from 3/4” to 3” and try to cut on that line, but the blade starts doing odd twisting when I get a little bit in every time. I’m obviously not doing something, but I can’t figure out what that something is… HELP!

-- You can get more with a kind word and a 2 by 4, than you can with just a kind word.

12 replies so far

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 3993 days

#1 posted 08-20-2010 06:37 PM

Don’t know if this will help or not.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View PurpLev's profile


8648 posts in 4658 days

#2 posted 08-20-2010 06:43 PM

what blade are you using? is the blade drifting in a consistent angle? or is it changing directions left and right?

to cut straight lines, you should be using as wide as blade as your bandsaw can take. tension plays an important role, sometimes the tension gauge on the BS is incorrect so even though you think the blade is tensioned properly – it isn’t (you didn’t state how you checked tension, so I’m just adding this in here). if the blade is not centered on the wheels, it can also cause drifting.

Aside from all of that – drifting in a consistent direction is OK, as long as you can adjust to it (although if you tune your BS properly you shouldn’t have drifting)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View CharlieM1958's profile


16292 posts in 5228 days

#3 posted 08-20-2010 07:14 PM

I have this saw, so I know what you are talking about. But it makes reasonable cuts if you don’t expect too much from it.

Do you have the guide blocks adjusted as low as possible for the wood you are cutting.

If you are cutting a straight line, do you have a fence clamped to the table?

And above all, are you feeding the material slowly enough? You really have to let the blade too the work… applying too much infeed force will cause drifting in a heartbeat with this saw.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Mogebier's profile


170 posts in 4043 days

#4 posted 08-20-2010 11:40 PM

Thanks Gregn, that link helps.
I guess I’m not really sure how to check the tension on the blade. It is centered on the wheels.
I do have the guide blocks down as close to the wood as they can be.
I have not used a fence.
I bet part of the problem is that I am pushing too hard. I see the guys on TV and they feed the wood in at 90 miles an hour, but I bet my little saw is more like a snails pace :)

-- You can get more with a kind word and a 2 by 4, than you can with just a kind word.

View jack1's profile


2160 posts in 5037 days

#5 posted 08-21-2010 03:01 AM

Slow and easy helps with these little guys and a good set of sanders! ;0)

-- jack -- ...measure once, curse twice!

View Richard's profile


11310 posts in 4042 days

#6 posted 08-21-2010 11:11 AM

I have a $149.00 Ryobi Bench Top. I have the same problem as you do and I have done everything to get it to Run and Cut properly. The Blade goes where it wants to go, NOT where I want it to go.

Gregn: One statement in your Link IS my Problem. Even if I have the top guide tight to the wood, the Bottom Guide is a full 2-1/4” BELOW the underside of the Table, inside the Casing! BAD Design!!!

I had a look at a few GOOD Bandsaws, Small & Large. The Lower Guides are as Tight As Possibble to the Underside of the Table.

IF Jet made a conversion unit for this saw It wouldn’t be worth the price to do it. A New One is in the cards shortly.

Perhaps you have the same problem Mogebier?

-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

View ChefHDAN's profile


1802 posts in 3859 days

#7 posted 08-21-2010 12:26 PM

Get Timberwolf or Starret blades, you’ll be amazed to find that the difference, as usual, lies in the quality of the blade. Don’t think that the tool came with the right blade, I fought and fought with my BS, and after spending $15 for a decent blade Voila! beautiful cuts. Check out here, I love this site,

I’ve also added the Kreg fence & I’d reccomend that as well, blows away the OEM fence

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Richard's profile


11310 posts in 4042 days

#8 posted 08-22-2010 08:02 AM

ChefDan: That is a great site! Spent 30 minutes on there and didn’t see half of it! A LOAD of Bandsaw Accessories!

Had a look at Drill Press Accessories. The Drill Press Planer is a Must Have!

Thanks for putting that up!


-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 4084 days

#9 posted 08-22-2010 02:47 PM

If you are tightening the blade based on the markings on the band saw, it is very likely that the blade is too loose. Those markings are almost always off. The blade should be tightened to 20,000 lb/sq in. There are tension gauges that can measure this directly but they probably cost more than you paid for the bandsaw. You may have a friend that would let you borrow one to check out your saw.

Even with proper tension, it can be hard to cut straight lines with small band saws and narrow blades. Nonetheless, checking the tension is a good place to start.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View wiswood2's profile


1138 posts in 4706 days

#10 posted 08-22-2010 04:58 PM

I got a 12 inch sears, and all it is good for is cutting off dowels, and the blades dont last very long. It is just junk. Chuck

-- Chuck, wiswood2

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 3933 days

#11 posted 08-23-2010 01:20 AM

I have a little 9” delta that my father gave me because he couldn’t get it to work properly. I bought a new blade and went thru the book and set it up and I have no problems with small pieces(2” or less) I have a 14” grizz for a heavy hitter. As someone else said..blade size and tension is critical. I set my blade tension by setting a square up to the blade and flexing it. I try to get about 3/16” flex in the blade. That’s just me.

-- Life is good.

View PhineasWhipsnake's profile


77 posts in 4058 days

#12 posted 08-23-2010 05:30 AM

I had that same saw for a few years, and had similar problems. A new Timbersolf blade helped some, but these saws aren’t good for anything but very light work at slow feed rates. I’m afraid you’ll need to get into at least a decent 14” or bigger saw for serious work. I never heard anyone say they were sorry for going too big.

-- Gene T

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