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Can't balance a nickel on my bandsaw table =(

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Forum topic by Lt_scout posted 12-31-2016 04:17 AM 2191 views 1 time favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Lt_scout

37 posts in 1134 days


12-31-2016 04:17 AM

I have recently developed a strange obsession with the bandsaw. I found an awesome little 12” Delta on Craigslist and loved to use it. smooth, somewhat quiet, great saw.

I gave it to my dad when I found a 14” 28-206 Delta bandsaw in search for more glorious bandsaw fun, has a bigger 1HP motor etc.

I discovered the thing needed some attention. I replaced the tilt hinge, guide bearings, (came with Lee Valley Guides) replaced the tires, replaced the v-belt with a notched automotive belt, balanced the wheels.

It’s smoother than when I got it but it still rattles and shakes, It’s not even close to balancing a nickel on the table. I don’t want to buy balanced forged pulleys for it, I’m kinda done.

In your opinion am I trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear? It’s not a Laguna right? The main issue is blade flap, mostly within the left side plastic guide, chatters. I have adjusted tension, tracks fine.

Any thoughts? Thanks guys for the great info here, you’ve been a great help to me as I setup my little garage woodshop.

BRyan

-- When you know you can do more with less, you will require less to do more.


30 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

2177 posts in 3191 days


#1 posted 12-31-2016 12:00 PM

What blade is on the saw. When I had an 18 inch jet and so, it vibrated too much. Changing the blade to Lenix from Ittura design solve the problem.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2567 posts in 2361 days


#2 posted 12-31-2016 05:01 PM

I bet it’s the tires, did you true them so they are round?
It also could be a bad blade.
Good for you wanting better.
I used to have a Laguna bandsaw that vibrated when it sat on a uneven spot on my shops floor.

Aj

-- Aj

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3131 posts in 2735 days


#3 posted 12-31-2016 05:19 PM

You need to isolate where the vibration is coming from. First take the blade off and run the machine. No vibration problem is tires, upper wheel, or blade. Still have vibration vibration is lower wheel, belt or motor.
Continue to remove or add until the vibration goes away or comes back and you are probably pretty close to the problem.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Lt_scout's profile

Lt_scout

37 posts in 1134 days


#4 posted 12-31-2016 06:56 PM

Hmmm… yes the blade could be the culprit, also the tires are not new, I replaced them with stock Delta tires from another machine that seemed in good shape. I have a new 1/4 Timberwolf blade. I’ll try that. thanks guys

-- When you know you can do more with less, you will require less to do more.

View emart's profile

emart

445 posts in 3191 days


#5 posted 12-31-2016 08:06 PM

it could be the drive pulleys or the stand. you dont need forged balanced pulleys however. I just bought a $20 drive pulley for my saw to replace the cracked one it had. combine that with a new solid stand and it passed the nickel test without any problems. People often dont realize how crappy the factory stands can be especially on newer saws. paper thin sheet metal just doesnt compare to a stand made from welded angle iron or from chunky pieces of wood that are bolted together.

For my saw I spent about $100 fixing it up with a new pulley, a better stand, and a thorough cleaning

-- tools are only as good as the hands that hold them https://www.custommade.com/by/emeraldcrafts/

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7533 posts in 2762 days


#6 posted 12-31-2016 08:25 PM

The main issue is blade flap, mostly within the left side plastic guide, chatters.

That isn’t normal, and sounds like you have a blade or tension problem.

BTW: If you haven’t already, watch the obligatory band saw tune up video and see if that helps:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View toolie's profile

toolie

2177 posts in 3191 days


#7 posted 12-31-2016 09:31 PM



.... I have a new 1/4 Timberwolf blade…....

- Lt_scout

There’s the probable culprit. Get a properly welded Lenox blade from itturra. Tell Lou its for testing/tuning your band saw. His welds are spot on and timber wolf blades are, well,.......................

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Lt_scout's profile

Lt_scout

37 posts in 1134 days


#8 posted 12-31-2016 11:58 PM

Ah man, you guys are a wealth of info… toolie, I thought Timberwolf blades were the high mark of blades, good know. emart and MrUnix, you’ve got some good stuff there… I did a partial breakdown and cleaning but I did notice a lot of vibration coming from the motor mount area at the top of the cabinet.

I have watched the Snodgrass video and I have implemented his setup.

I replaced the tires today and it did bring with it some more smoothness to the machine. Unix is right on with the tension problem also, I think my tension spring is old and compressed a bit resulting in inaccuracies on the (blade width to tension mark guide) found on the back of the saw. I’m using “flutter test” to guide my tension and considering the Snodgrass deflection test also.

I think fine tuning that last bit of unpleasantness from this machine is going to be correcting contributing vibration inputs versus one big correction to an area of the machine.

I can put a whiskey glass on the table surface and it won’t walk. It remains in place, but the nickel test i am not a candidate for… yet

-- When you know you can do more with less, you will require less to do more.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1554 posts in 3068 days


#9 posted 01-01-2017 12:05 AM

I have the Ridgid band saw which is reknowned piece of crap. It now passes the nickel test, and purrs like a kitten.

How did I do It?
Link belt
Timber wolf blade
Stiffen base with sheet of mdf.
New eurathane tires
Balanced the wheels

I also like cool blocks. And I used a stone on the back of my blade to smooth it out.

You’ve done good work already.

I think you should replace the tension spring. Do you need to stiffen the base?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7533 posts in 2762 days


#10 posted 01-01-2017 01:03 AM

The tension spring should only be replaced if it’s bottoming out, otherwise doing so won’t get you any benefits. And that blade size guide on the tension adjustment is for getting you in the ballpark only, and should not be relied on for proper tension.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: If you have the stock HSS guide blocks, there isn’t anything better… Cool blocks and other ‘upgrade’ guides are, IMO, a waste of money. See this review: Bandsaw blade guide review by Jim Mattson

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3387 posts in 2360 days


#11 posted 01-01-2017 02:29 AM

The markings on the tension spring don’t get you very far—I sometimes check when I’ve just changed a blade to see if I’m in the right range, but I use deflection test for final tension. Timberwolf blades have their own unique instructions on setting the right tension.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View emart's profile

emart

445 posts in 3191 days


#12 posted 01-01-2017 02:48 AM


I have the Ridgid band saw which is reknowned piece of crap. It now passes the nickel test, and purrs like a kitten.

How did I do It?

Stiffen base with sheet of mdf.

I also like cool blocks. And I used a stone on the back of my blade to smooth it out.

You ve done good work already.

I think you should replace the tension spring. Do you need to stiffen the base?

- RibsBrisket4me

having a strong base solves quite a few problems in my opinion. a solid base will reduce a lot of the vibration so long as there isnt something majorly wrong with the machine. It’s a pet peeve of mine when I see new tools sitting on terrible flat pack bases. When I bought my machine the wood base was so loose the entire thing moved 2 inches to the left and right. just replacing that reduced the swaying a lot. the vibrations were caused by a cracked pulley but the ancient base was allowing the vibrations to magnify.

-- tools are only as good as the hands that hold them https://www.custommade.com/by/emeraldcrafts/

View emart's profile

emart

445 posts in 3191 days


#13 posted 01-01-2017 02:50 AM

I have a post on the teardown and repairs to my bandsaw. I dont cover every problem since my machine was in decent shape but you can see some of the fixes I had to do to make my machine usable. http://lumberjocks.com/emart/blog/22954

-- tools are only as good as the hands that hold them https://www.custommade.com/by/emeraldcrafts/

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7533 posts in 2762 days


#14 posted 01-01-2017 02:52 AM

I have a post on the teardown and repairs to my bandsaw.
- emart

And if you want to see all the parts involved, here is my Delta :)

Cheers,
Brad

PS: There are actually two parts missing in that photo… see if you can figure out which ones <grin>

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Picklehead's profile

Picklehead

1053 posts in 2492 days


#15 posted 01-01-2017 03:01 AM



I have a post on the teardown and repairs to my bandsaw.
- emart

And if you want to see all the parts involved, here is my Delta :)

Cheers,
Brad

PS: There are actually two parts missing in that photo… see if you can figure out which ones

- MrUnix

Motor and belt

-- Quote from ebay tool listing: " Has nicks and dings wear and tear dust and dirt rust and pitting but in good working condition"

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