Need help for making L shape table

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Forum topic by evan3567 posted 12-27-2016 01:49 PM 383 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1 post in 999 days

12-27-2016 01:49 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hi there first of all i have no experience working with wood and have no machine tools for cutting, i am thinking to make L shape computer desk myself, i have attached the photo of design which i anyhow created in sketch up, i m thinking to use MDF board as it is cheap and i will be putting cpu under table so no heavy load, please suggest any changes in design and joints etc, i m noob :P hoping u will understand what i want to say. Thanks

PS:i will use handsaw for cutting,and sandpaper for smoothing sides.

2 replies so far

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1402 days

#1 posted 12-27-2016 03:41 PM


If all you will use to build the computer table shown is a hand saw and sand paper, I suspect you may give up before the project is complete. But if you also had a router with a straight bit and flush trim bit, a circular saw, perhaps a jig saw, a cord or cordless screw gun with drill bits and screw driver bits, and a j-roller it could probably be built.

But if you skill level matches your tools, a better option may be hiring a counter top fabricator to make the top and buy a pair of bathroom cabinets to support the top. Pre-built bathroom cabinets can be bought at the Home Center.

As far as the design, it looks to me that the unsupported front edge would be a problem. All it could take to break the top down would be someone leaning or sitting on the top (which can happen). Also, sagging under its own weight could occur over time. Reducing the unsupported span and/or adding front rails could help address these issues.

The span could be reduced by adding vertical panels, like those on the end. However, unless the panels are anchored to the floor and the top, the panels could get bumped out of plumb and contribute to a failure. A better support would be a pair of free-standing boxes that would support the top. These could be built or a pair of pre-built bathroom cabinets could be used. Bathroom cabinets are a little shorter than kitchen cabinets and would put the height of the top closer to 30” off the floor.

The boxes would offer superior support, in my opinion, to rails along the front edge and avoid the design and construction problem of the curved center section of the top. The rails could be 3-1/2” poplar or pine from the Home Center glued and screwed to the top near, but set back from the front edge of the top. The joint where the two rails meet under the curved section of the top could be a butt joint and screwed together.

The top could be MDF or particle board with laminate applied. The outer edge of the top could be built up to a greater thickness by face gluing a second narrow piece of MDF or particle board so laminate could be glued to the edge and give the top a beefy appearance. The top could be two rectangular sections spliced to the center curve section. Counter top draw bolts or a spline applied to the under surface of the top and bridging the seams would make the top into one piece. After spliced together the laminate can be applied.

The curved section of the top could be shaped in a couple of ways. I would make a template that could be clamped to the center section of the top. The center section of the top would be roughly cut to the curve. The template would then guide a flush trim bit in the router. Once the curve is fared with the router, a circular saw and a straight edged guide would be used to cut the wall edges to make the curved section the proper width.

View Cooler's profile


299 posts in 1325 days

#2 posted 12-27-2016 04:31 PM

The go-to method for non-wood workers is to use hollow core doors and support them with Ikea A-frame legs. Apply a finish of choice.

Join the panels with dowels and mending plates.

Some hollow core doors are now made with a wood veneer over cardboard and those will not be satisfactory. Look at the edges of the door you will see the cardboard if it is being used.

If you use standard sized doors no power tools will be required (except for a electric drill). You will need dowel centers to align the dowels. Or you could simply screw a 6” x 24” wide piece of 1/2” plywood to the bottom to join the doors.

-- This post is a hand-crafted natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar should not be viewed as flaws or defects, but rather as an integral characteristic of the creative process.

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