LumberJocks

First time help needed! Pyrography + finish?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by Beret posted 12-11-2016 02:40 PM 612 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Beret's profile

Beret

4 posts in 1040 days


12-11-2016 02:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finish box shellac question

Hello! So this christmas I thought I would try my hand at woodworking and trying to turn small wooden pieces into gifts.

I am using shellac clear finish spray along with this WalnutHollow pen.

I will get the blanks, which are 1-1/2×1-1/2×4, sand them down first with 300~ and burn my design. A small silhouette of a cat and that is really all i want to do. Then I am to sand it down again and apply the finish, wait for that to dry and apply another coat of shellac.

Is this correct or am I missing something?

my sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L3TZBH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will also be putting polyester felt on the bottom of the box with adhesive. Does this mean I don’t have to work that bottom side?

Lastly, is dentured alcohol necessary with this shellac spray finish?

Woods being used:

I also got some purpleheart and mahogany! But plan to use the first two for this project.

Thanks everyone for your help!


5 replies so far

View wuddoc's profile

wuddoc

353 posts in 4225 days


#1 posted 12-11-2016 11:32 PM

I do know that oily woods such as rosewood and teak need to have the surfaces cleaned with a solvent in order to remove the natural oils in the first few cell layers so a finish will adhere.

When removing the oil you have to begin the finish process soon as waiting will allow the natural oil deeper in the cell layers to gravitate and replace the missing oil.

-- Wuddoc

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

582 posts in 1126 days


#2 posted 12-12-2016 02:25 PM

Your sequence sounds reasonable. If you’re going to cover a surface with felt, I think it would be a waste of time to finish it beyond 60 or 80 grit. All you need is a flat surface and the “tooth” from a rougher paper will help the adhesive stick.

I typically do about 3 coats of shellac, rub it smooth with greeenie to remove any dust nibs, and add a coat of paste wax.

-- Sawdust Maker

View Beret's profile

Beret

4 posts in 1040 days


#3 posted 12-12-2016 05:15 PM

If I am sanding a sequence of 80 > 150 > 240 > 320

Would I pyrograph, sand 80, shellac spray, wait 45-60m, sand 150, spray and wait, sand 240, spray and wait, sand 320? I thought the shellac acted a sealer as well so no wax is neccescary? Or is the shine from the shellac not good enough? What would be my options after the 320 grit sanding?

View Beret's profile

Beret

4 posts in 1040 days


#4 posted 12-13-2016 08:11 PM



Your sequence sounds reasonable. If you re going to cover a surface with felt, I think it would be a waste of time to finish it beyond 60 or 80 grit. All you need is a flat surface and the “tooth” from a rougher paper will help the adhesive stick.

I typically do about 3 coats of shellac, rub it smooth with greeenie to remove any dust nibs, and add a coat of paste wax.

- Dan Hulbert

Here is a picture of the woods and project. http://imgur.com/a/CY1KQ

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 1098 days


#5 posted 12-19-2016 08:52 PM

Spray can will work but simple liquid shellac will work much better. With spray can you need to apply very many layers, which is a pain with round objects like pens. Most of your shellac will end up in the air around you.
With a can of liquid shellac you can simply immerse the pen into the can several times to get consistent coats. Or you can wipe it on with a rag.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com