HELP with jointer set up, please!

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Forum topic by Dbhoosier posted 11-27-2016 08:10 PM 845 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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32 posts in 2443 days

11-27-2016 08:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer

Hoping someone can help/advise me here. I have a Grizzly G0656 8” jointer (review previously posted on here). Had it for a couple years now and it has worked nicely. About halfway through milling the quartersawn oak for my latest project, I noticed that the boards were not flattening and they were becoming wedges (I had already milled probably 40 board feet with no problems at all). At first, I thought I might just have had oddly warped stock, but quickly figured out that was not the problem. Since then, I have spent about eight hours trying to get the jointer properly aligned and have become quite exasperated. Here’s what I have checked/done:

- Aligned beds using a 50” Veritas straight edge and feeler gauges. After a bit of tweaking, the beds seem to be pretty well aligned, although on the side of the blade guard, I can potentially fit a 0.001” feeler gauge underneath on the outfeed table. Doesn’t seem like that should be significant, and that seems to be as close as I can get it after messing with it quite a bit.
- Re-aligned the three blades using a magnetic jointer blade alignment tool.

I went out and bought some S4S stock to re-test it, since I know it is already flat and I should get a consistent depth of cut across the board if the machine is properly aligned. For reference purposes, I went ahead and marked the corners of a test board (48” long piece of pine, 7.5” wide) and also measured the thickness of each corner. On one side of the board, I scribbled on it with a pencil all over so I can tell when and where the blades have cut. After several passes back through the jointer, the pencil marks were all gone and I remeasured. Still having issues. Here are the results:

Corner A (front and by jointer fence) – 0.739(before) 0.716 (after) – cut of 0.023
Corner B (back and by jointer fence) – 0.747(before) 0.706 (after) – cut of 0.031
Corner D (front and by blade guard) – 0.750(before) 0.731 (after) – cut of 0.019
Corner C (back and by blade guard) – 0.752(before) 0.737 (after) – cut of 0.015

Thus, I am still getting a deeper cut by the fence and for whatever reason, the back corner by the fence is getting cut significantly more than the rest. If anyone has any suggestions regarding what to do next, please let me know. After 15 years of woodworking, I’ve never been stumped like this and not able to get my machinery working as needed. If there are people that can be hired to provide help with something like this, I’d love suggestions as well (in terms of where to look).

11 replies so far

View Aj2's profile


4027 posts in 3009 days

#1 posted 11-27-2016 10:06 PM

Recheck your knives.Use a different method than you used setting them.
You mention that your boards are tapered but you don’t say if it’s the length or width.
So check your knive projection above the outfeed table and across the width of the outfeed table.
Verify using atleast two methods.
Your table measurements seem fine to me.Not perfect but not that bad.

-- Aj

View IowaBeauty's profile


11 posts in 1756 days

#2 posted 11-27-2016 10:40 PM

I’d check the knives using the rolling board method. Sure sounds like guard side but s a hundredth or so high.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


8747 posts in 3410 days

#3 posted 11-27-2016 11:02 PM

For a jointer, one of these is almost mandatory:

Magnetic jigs, straight edges and other gadgets can’t get anywhere near as accurate.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Dbhoosier's profile


32 posts in 2443 days

#4 posted 11-28-2016 12:34 AM

Thanks for the replies. I will pick up a dial gauge and see if that makes a difference. In terms of tapering, I think it is more prevalent in terms of width (i.e. Corner B and C above are a .016 difference in depth of cut across the width) but there could be some length tapering too, although the results noted above are not consistent (one side of the length slight tapers by .008 by the other by -.004. Could the amount of pressure I was applying as I pushed it across the beds. Does it make sense that knife alignment would create such a pronounced tapering in the back corner of the board?

View runswithscissors's profile


3133 posts in 3236 days

#5 posted 11-28-2016 12:48 AM

Somebody correct me if I’m wrong, but a jointer isn’t designed to be a thickness planer. The only measurement that should count is the flatness of the jointed face. Also, unless you checked carefully for flatness of your pine board, I would not count on a board from the lumberyard being true, whether S4S or not.

The tapering you are noticing may be from technique, not the jointer itself. It’s not easy to maintain consistent, even pressure on a board as it’s being jointed.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Dbhoosier's profile


32 posts in 2443 days

#6 posted 11-28-2016 01:19 AM

I am definitely not expecting it to be a thickness planer, but I expect the depth of cut to be reasonably consistent on the one side (across the board and along it). The only way i could think of to test it (after adjusting the beds and knives) was to get a pretty flat and square piece, but knowing that it wouldn’t be perfect, take the “before” thickness by corner and then determine the depth of cut “after”. I’m seeing the depth of cut to be more on one side and in the back corner, in particular. A variance of a few thousandths of an inch shouldn’t be a big deal, but I’m seeing much more than that. I shouldn’t be getting tapered cuts when trying to flatten one side – I can’t get 4/4 stock flat this way to leave me enough thickness to plane it down to 3/4”. One side gets eaten away too quickly. I don’t think this is from technique – I’ve been milling stock for 15 years and just did 40 board feet with no problem before this tapering started. My last jointer seemed to always be property aligned and the new G0656 was doing great until now. Haven’t had to mess much with jointer alignment in the past and I’m clearly struggling. Any help is truly appreciated.

View IowaBeauty's profile


11 posts in 1756 days

#7 posted 11-28-2016 02:04 AM


Different tools speak to different folks I guess. Personally I’ve not found the need for anything other than a really good straightedge.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


8747 posts in 3410 days

#8 posted 11-28-2016 02:20 AM

Personally I’ve not found the need for anything other than a really good straightedge.
- IowaBeauty

Did it that way for years… and it wasn’t until I got a dial indicator did I realize how inaccurate that method is :)


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Robert's profile


4713 posts in 2692 days

#9 posted 11-28-2016 03:05 PM

Weird things like this can happen with machinery don’t ask me to explain it.

I had exactly the same thing occur when I was jointing the beams for the top of my workbench. I tweaked the outfeed table UP just a bit and solved the problem – but not until I practically ruined 2 pieces of hard maple. The settings hadn’t been changed in 10 years but until I ran those heavy long beams through I never knew it.

I agree with the other re: check those blades first. Then investigate anything different like push blocks.

Then I think you need to relax a bit. Yeah, its off – by 8 tho- that’s 1/128”. Thinking intuitively, I believe you could get that much difference with nothing more than a little extra pressure pushing the board, especially the last part through and especially if you’re using a long push block.

This is a reality of ww’ing. There is a limit to tolerances, knowing the material will be different the next day!!

Here’s another reality: I know for a fact my planer is off almost 2 thou (1/64th) across 20”. And I am not about to spend an afternoon trying to tweak that :-D

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View dbray45's profile


3414 posts in 3988 days

#10 posted 11-28-2016 04:06 PM

Jointer is for flattening one side or edge to use as a reference edge. If the wood is not acclimated and is flat or rift cut, it will move after the cut.

What I do, buy a board and let it sit for a couple of weeks, joint one edge and one face, then plane it close to what I want. After that, I make it fit with hand tools (planes, saws, and chisels)

Good luck

-- David in Palm Bay, FL

View HokieKen's profile


19076 posts in 2350 days

#11 posted 11-28-2016 05:45 PM

I agree with Brad on the dial indicator. They’re inexpensive and even the cheaper ones are accurate. If nothing else, it’ll give you peace of mind that your knives are set right.

Regarding your measurements I would discard them entirely. Your jointer is not designed to take an even cut along the whole face. That’s what a planer’s for. Also, if your S4S pine was flat enough to begin with to be able to identify your error, I’d be shocked. Take it after you jointed it and check it with your straight edge or on a flat surface and see if it’s flat. That’s what matters.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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