Converting a Shopsmith jointer to standalone?

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Forum topic by mpounders posted 07-01-2010 10:33 PM 4222 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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931 posts in 3351 days

07-01-2010 10:33 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer sander

I believe I have some old Shopsmith accessories, specifically the jointer and the belt sander. I am thinking about rigging up some pulleys and belts and motors so that I can use these ( I don’t own a Shopsmith!). Anyone have any suggestions regarding what speed I should be turning these at? I’m sure I can come up with some type of contraption, if I had an idea what RPMs and horsepower I should be considering. Or should I just buy something decent and avoid the attmpt to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear?

-- Mike P., Arkansas,

5 replies so far

View Paul M Cohen's profile

Paul M Cohen

86 posts in 4233 days

#1 posted 07-02-2010 12:59 AM

Shopsmith sells stands for all of their special purpose tools. On their site they list the pulley’s needed to do it yourself. You need about a 1/2 HP motor for most of the tools (except the planer which require 1.5HP).

The speed range for the tools is below.

Bandsaw—700 to 1150 rpm
Planer—5750 rpm
Belt Sander—1150 to 1725 rpm
Strip Sander—1150 to 1725 rpm
Jointer—3900 rpm

You can find mounting stands on eBay for about $20 that allow you to easily connect the tool to a wood or metal base with space for the pulley to pass through.

-- Paul, Beaverton OR,

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3530 days

#2 posted 07-02-2010 05:24 AM

I own all the accessories that Paul listed except the Planer.

i would run all of the accessories towards the low end of the range Paul quoted.

Let me comment that the belt sander is a particularly good tool.
The strip sander is also a handy thing, especially with it’s ability to sand inside holes.
The bandsaw is good, but only for light work.
The jointer is okay but it is only a 4 inch jointer. It’s only real purpose is to put a clean edge on a board for gluing.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View mpounders's profile


931 posts in 3351 days

#3 posted 07-02-2010 05:35 PM

Thanks guys….I will see what I can come up with on the belt sander and maybe save up for a bigger jointer.

-- Mike P., Arkansas,

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3530 days

#4 posted 07-02-2010 06:55 PM

If you have any interest in scrolling, the SS scroll saw is very good. If you can get a used one and hook it up you could have a very good scroll saw for a very reasonable price. Note that with a scroll saw you don’t need very much power. 1/2 hp would be plenty and you could probably get by with less.

FYI – I have a SS scroll saw and I have discovered that scrolling is not for me. They sell for $700 new and I think they are worth. They compare favorably with other scroll saws at this price or higher. Send my a PM if interested. I’ll make you a good deal.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View ray5809's profile


9 posts in 3985 days

#5 posted 07-20-2019 08:09 PM

I have a 520. Love it. I like to use it as an overarm router. Unfortunately it doesn’t go fast enough.
Question. Please give me your opinions. If I modified a 10er to be a dedicated overhead router and drill press. Inserted high quality bearings. Added a brace for more rigidity. Use a scissor jack for elevation. Mount electronic calipers for fine adjustment. Add a vacuum intake for router operation. Use a treadmill motor with variable electronic control, for speed adjustment.
Question is the casting able to handle the higher speed and side loading?
Yes it can be made to work. Is it practical?
Has anyone tried doing this?
Saw an add on Creiglist. Vintage antique model 10ER ShopSmith. One owner. Loving use by grandfather. Perfect condition. Bargain priced at only $600.
Another ShopSmith 10ER $50. If you give me good advice. Which one do you think I will buy?
Thanks in advance for all suggestions. Especially one that explains how this conversation is a bad idea, to expensive and the castings can’t handle the increased speed. Or how to make an easy, good quality, reasonably priced, strong and accurate overhead router using a hand held router.
All suggestions welcomed.

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