Need help with dealing with tearout

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Forum topic by BB1 posted 09-15-2016 01:23 AM 924 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1687 posts in 1726 days

09-15-2016 01:23 AM

I pulled out my incra ibox jig for a little project – a holder for a trash container for our RV. Did test cuts to refamilarize myself with the steps and was successful with a nice snug joint. Unfortunately I forgot to readjust the back support for a lower depth cut on my actual project pieces so ended up with some chipout. I cannot shorten the sides as I actually had the size just right. I have it glued up (likely my second mistake). My question is – are there any ways to disguise the chip out? I was thinking of trying to angle the sides or even create a vertical insert. Once again, a project in need of some “design features”...any ideas are welcome!


18 replies so far

View Andre's profile


3735 posts in 2683 days

#1 posted 09-15-2016 02:07 AM

You could plane the sides down to remove the tearout? Router groves on the corners to give it the appearance of a design detail? I would run it over my jointer. (helical head carbide)

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

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1687 posts in 1726 days

#2 posted 09-15-2016 02:25 AM

Thank Andre for some good options to consider. I don’t have a jointer but having been thinking about what router bit might work (as I do have a router table). I don’t know if making a shallow angled cut on each side at the table saw would help. I did use the table saw to trim the back the excess length of the fingers. The walls aren’t that thick (don’t have an exact measure) so that is something I need to keep in mind.

View BurlyBob's profile


7934 posts in 3143 days

#3 posted 09-15-2016 03:45 AM

Is the gap have any open area to it? I just got done using a two part epoxy to fill gaps in a display case of red oak and black walnut splines. I had to dig a little of the glue with a dental pick. I put a little extra hardner in the mix. It worked pretty darn nice. I trimmed the bulk of the excess with a real sharp chisel and sanded it down. I had some 320 grit for the final polish sanding. A couples of poly and you honestly can’t see the gaps. You might give that a try.

View BB1's profile


1687 posts in 1726 days

#4 posted 09-15-2016 12:05 PM

BurlyBob – Thank you for that suggestion. I have some minor gaps but mainly concerned with the tear out. I have not used epoxy for anything like this – is there a particular type/brand that you have found to work well for this type of application? I did a quick search and see Loctite, Gorilla but then also others like Bob Smith Industries and Devcon Epoxy. From your description, it sounds like there may be other uses in the future so this may be a chance for me to learn a new technique (which seems true of about every project!!).

View HokieKen's profile


15153 posts in 2016 days

#5 posted 09-15-2016 02:21 PM

How ‘bout a roundover bit? Radiused box joints look nice and wit a big enough radius, will remove your tearout too.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View BurlyBob's profile


7934 posts in 3143 days

#6 posted 09-15-2016 02:42 PM

I tried that Gorilla two part epoxy and it apparently didn’t give two equal portions. It was the 5 minute stuff, 24 hours it was still sticky. I went to the local Ace hardware and bought their brand that came with 2 separate tubes, resin and hardener. I used acetone to rubbed down and soften the Gorilla epoxy and dug much of it out with a dental pick. I guess you could use anything small; a nail or screwdriver. I just happened to have a dental pick handy. My thought was to just fill the gaps and it seemed to do that job quite well.

I have used a plastic resin kit I bought at a craft store to fill knots with good success. West Marine also makes a two part system that I understand works real well. I know Jamestown Distributors has that.

Best of luck.

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1798 days

#7 posted 09-15-2016 03:10 PM


A shallow rabbet cut wide enough to remove the chip out would create a recess for a thin inlay strip glued in place. The inlay strip could remain proud of the surface or flushed up. The inlay strip could be of the same wood or a contrasting wood as an accent. If the inlay strip is a contrasting wood, both faces that form the corner could get the same treatment, adding another layer of detail to the project.

Of course, this fix would render the dovetail joint invisible. Also I am not sure whether the inlay strip would crack over time, though if thin and narrow enough I doubt it would.

View KelleyCrafts's profile


4350 posts in 1617 days

#8 posted 09-15-2016 03:13 PM

How bout a roundover bit? Radiused box joints look nice and wit a big enough radius, will remove your tearout too.

- HokieKen

+1 for what Kenny said.

-- Dave - - pen blanks - knife scales - turning tools

View splintergroup's profile


4037 posts in 2100 days

#9 posted 09-15-2016 03:45 PM

I’d do as JB suggests (and you eluded to). A nice strip of wood inlayed to cover up the chipout and gaps. Simple passes with a router or flat grind (rip) blade on the table saw set to the depth of your inlay wood.

View oldnovice's profile


7667 posts in 4245 days

#10 posted 09-15-2016 03:49 PM

I know it is too late, since the pieces are complete, but by using a backer board when cutting these you would reduce tear out dramatically.

In your case I might try Timbermate filler.
Different colors can be intermixed to get the desired color.
I have used Timbermate on many occasions, some of which were on visible surfaces.
I my opinion it is one of the best, easiest, and safest fillers to use!

-- "It's fine in practise but it will never work in theory"

View Kirk650's profile


680 posts in 1626 days

#11 posted 09-15-2016 04:50 PM

Yup, use a backer board. If I don’t, I get tearout also.

View BB1's profile


1687 posts in 1726 days

#12 posted 09-15-2016 10:12 PM

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions. I’m not sure yet which way I’ll go but had a few more questions. I had tried using a roundover bit on a prior project (the tissue box cover) and found the rounded corners didn’t sand nicely. Seemed to stand out a bit. I’m guessing there was something in my technique at the router table or with sanding. I ran the box through the router twice – once for each “side” of the corner. Is that needed or should I adjust my fence and bit height in a way to just make a single pass?

Of course if I go with inlaid wood, that wouldn’t require the roundover…but will still need to deal with some space issues…so that means back to potentially trying epoxy and / or the Timbermate (thank you for the link)

Of course this all could have been avoided if I had adjusted my backer board after doing some practice cuts. Since it had been about a year since I used the ibox, I had to go through the steps. My wood for the practice time was thicker so the backer board was basically ineffective when I moved on to my project pieces. A lesson that I won’t forget (hopefully!).

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1687 posts in 1726 days

#13 posted 09-19-2016 01:30 AM

Not done yet but decided to try the roundover option. It is looking better. I still have some spots that I need to fix so think I’m going to try epoxy. Thanks so much for all the suggestions. Hopefully will have a completed project to post down the road (weekends are about my only time to get into the shop or bit of time late in the day).

View HokieKen's profile


15153 posts in 2016 days

#14 posted 09-19-2016 11:48 AM

I’d say that looks just fine BB1. Regarding sanding, the issue is that 1/2 of the joint on each face is end grain and the other 1/2 is long grain. Personally with joints like that, I sand across the grain, only at the joints, until I get everything smooth then sand it up to 320 grit. Then I go back and sand the entire thing with the grain to 220. Since the cross grain scratch marks are finer, the 220 grit typically removes them well enough. YMMV of course.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View BB1's profile


1687 posts in 1726 days

#15 posted 09-19-2016 12:04 PM

Kenny – thank you for the advice on the sanding. Those last steps are always a challenge for me – I think I see the end in sight and tend to rush. I have been focused much more on the sanding aspect on this one so hopefully will end up with a better result.

showing 1 through 15 of 18 replies

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