Scrap Router Table Build

  • Advertise with us

« back to Jigs & Fixtures forum

Forum topic by hackery posted 08-11-2016 08:04 PM 1398 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View hackery's profile


49 posts in 1128 days

08-11-2016 08:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router table mitre saw multi function dual shop made home cheap scrap

Hi All

Please go easy with me this is my first ever jig / machine / device type build (apart from a table saw sled) and I know it looks like crap but it was made from scrap and I learnt some new stuff along the way.

Due to very limited space in my shed the only permanent workshop tool that is set up is my sliding mitre saw which I made a mini station placed between shelving that acts as supports for my “attic” which serves as sheet goods storage. I wanted to try making a router table basically because it looked easy and was cheap so I decided to turn my mitre saw station into a multi function saw station and router table.

I had room on the side supports of my recessed mitre saw base for a sheet of ply to sit on top of that would serve to be my router table top. At first the plan was when the router was to be used the saw would be lifted away and the router table set up would be screwed into place using insert nuts fitted to the supports but then that posed the problem of storing the router table when not in use and sort of a pain in the ass so I decided to hinge the back of the router table so it locks behind the mitre saw when not in use at 110 degree angle and held up with a simple latch. In the locked away position I have just about 1/4 inch clearance at the back for the saw rails.

The table was just made from scrap 18mm plywood which was my old workbench top which was really beat up covered in holes, paint, scratches, swear words you name it so was a perfect candidate. Cut a very rough squarish as I could hole in the middle and then cut another piece to serve as my insert plate. Four blocks were screwed underneath for the insert plate to sit on. The insert plate which was cut to a precise size on the table saw but then it had to be sanded into a the same squarish size to fit into it’s hole. Marked out the four mounting screws for the router base and hole sawed a 45mm hole for the router bit (it’s a 1/4 inch only router). As I wanted the router to remain attached to the table in it’s folded away position I used threaded insert nuts on the insert table support blocks and then M6 machine screws countersunk to hold the insert plate in place.

I used a cable tie (zip tie) to lock the power button on and then wired a 30amp chrome cooker switch to serve as the router on / off switch and mounted the switch on the front of the mitre saw table.

Next up was my fence… which given you can literally not buy t-track in this country (seriously!!) I decided to just router out two slots towards the rear of the table to act as guides and I ran two long M6 bolts with washers on both sides. I then learnt the use of pronged t-nuts to make crude knobs / handles for my fence because again you literally cannot buy knobs or handles anywhere locally. I have to say even though my knobs are very crude I am very proud of them they are just made from pine with the t-nut pushed on using my vise. I hole sawed out the pine and then shaped them with 6 sides on the disc sander. In hindsight I should have used plywood or hardwood for the knobs as two of the knobs are already cracking thanks to the prongs of the t-nuts.

Fence itself just two bits of different 18mm plywood with 11mm supports at the rear. I made a little dust extraction housing again with some 11mm ply and was lucky to find a old plastic port in my shed’s “drawer of madness” that fits my cheapo Makita dust extractor / shop vac / victim of abuse. On the front I wanted two sliding faces for less clearance around the router bits when required so same as the base of the fence I cut out two slots for each side and countersunk two M6 bolts per side with crude knobs at the back. Top part of fence face is non moving and just a slim strip of 18mm ply.

Well that’s it. It’s definitely not pretty but it’s rock solid and was really cheap total cost £12 / $20 US and the best part being it doesn’t take up any more room in my tiny 12ft x 10ft shed.

Having never used a router table I now need to learn!

Thanks for your time.


-- Notice woodworker and now metal worker - Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK

5 replies so far

View nightguy's profile


213 posts in 1079 days

#1 posted 08-11-2016 08:09 PM

That will work nice.

View jwmalone's profile


769 posts in 1119 days

#2 posted 08-11-2016 08:16 PM

Not bad for 20 bucks. The good thing about a cheap home made router table is over time you learn how to build the next one.

-- "Boy you could get more work done it you quit flapping your pie hole" Grandpa

View hackery's profile


49 posts in 1128 days

#3 posted 08-11-2016 08:26 PM

thanks gents

-- Notice woodworker and now metal worker - Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


5966 posts in 2825 days

#4 posted 08-15-2016 03:21 AM

Nice work on solving the issue of limited space. It does not have to be pretty if it works it works. You learned alot and did alot of work to find the solution, hopefully enjoying the process. As jwmalone wrote you will see what you can improve for the next one or next project you do. Limited space is a complaint many of us have, I have been told by someone that has a 24×72 shop that despite being larger than his 10×12 shop he still needs more space. Myself I would like to try and test that theory one day. (laughing)

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View hackery's profile


49 posts in 1128 days

#5 posted 08-15-2016 07:44 AM

Thanks WoodButcher

Good username by the way along the same lines as my “Hackery” well my username is dual use being I hack my wood projects together and I work in internet / IT security. Anyways….

Yep will definitely rebuild it at some stage in the future to be prettier such as all the wood is clean and looks the same with no random holes in it or pencil marks, graffiti etc but that’s due to the majority of the wood being my old 4ft x 2ft bench top.

I would have liked to have added metal t-track but its next to impossible to buy here and needs to be ordered online with shipping costs three times the cost of the already eye wateringly expensive track. However found a router bit on Amazon that cuts t-track in wood which of course won’t last as long as metal t-track but it’s always on hand and free.

Next weekend going to try cutting a track across the top (non moving) fence face for the addition of hold downs and other bits.

As you say I did learn some new things which is the most important thing after the finished project being functional. In this case I like how the fence is attached to the table via the slots and bolts as I have been wanting to convert my very crappy table saw which literally sways on its thin mild steel angled legs to a cabinet saw but was worried about how the fence would work in terms of being accurate so the slot / bolt solution seems to be the easiest and cheapest fix for my upcoming cabinet saw build as I can then hinge and fold all three outfeed tables when not in use

-- Notice woodworker and now metal worker - Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics