Sharpening Table Saw blades

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Forum topic by scottb posted 02-15-2007 02:35 AM 27287 views 1 time favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3648 posts in 5564 days

02-15-2007 02:35 AM

I’ve recently traded out the saw blade on my table saw, (The new blade was a perfect indicator of how dull the old one had become!) and my father has done the same. With the cost of a new blade being what it is (and knowing that they can be sharpened a few times) What have you all done? Started a used blade collection? Have any sharpening tips, or where do you outsource this?


-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Van Gogh -- --

21 replies so far

View Karson's profile


35278 posts in 5638 days

#1 posted 02-15-2007 05:36 AM


I found a guy in NJ that sharpened with what he called his furniture grade sharpening with 600 grit diamond instead of 400 grit.

I get zero chipout on plywood as long as it is sharp.

Checking around in Delaware everyone wants to sharpen to 400 grit.

See if you can get 600, it could be that the new ones that you get from Forrest etc might be originally sharpened to 600.

But sharpening is the way to go. 15-20 bucks and you’ve got the equivalent of a new blade. Providing it was not a dollar-store blade to begin with.

I’ve taken some skill saw blades to him and he will say not worth sharpening or for another Ya! Sharpen it. So he can see the difference in quality of the original blade.

Unfortunately he is 200 miles from me now. So I might have to ship. But a 16” blade weight 20 lbs or so. (It seems like a ton)

I just picked up 2 16” blades from the woodworkers group that I’m a member of. They were given to the club by Seally mattress. One is brand new and the other has been sharpened. But they are both 60 tooth so good rip blades.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected]

View Obi's profile


2214 posts in 5474 days

#2 posted 02-15-2007 05:49 AM

I wanna see the saw that takes a 16” blade

View scottb's profile


3648 posts in 5564 days

#3 posted 02-15-2007 07:05 AM

One blade is the original that came with my Delta Saw, another is a Freud 60 (or perhaps 80) tooth… come to think of it, I inherited a few others with my shopsmith… so if I did have to mail them out, I’m sure I’d save on shipping, provided they all had some life left in them.

The only place I’ve come across thus far (was a Mail order service from DeWalt. Not sure if they’re limiting to only their blades, but the cost is in line with what you found Karson.
You just did a google search initially or did he live nearby at one time?

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Van Gogh -- --

View thewoodwhisperer's profile


605 posts in 5421 days

#4 posted 02-15-2007 08:33 AM

I ship all of my blades, including my jointer and planer blades, to Forrest in Jersey. I use a WWII so I like the idea of staying with the same company for sharpening. But I hear they do excellent work on other manufacturer’s blades as well. Highly recommend them.


-- For free video tutorials and other cool woodworking stuff, check out

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Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 5537 days

#5 posted 02-15-2007 02:35 PM

Every so often I touch up my blades with my diamond hone, & they work like new again.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN.

View Dollarbill's profile


91 posts in 5375 days

#6 posted 02-15-2007 06:53 PM

I agree with Marc and Dick. But many times when I thought my WWII was starting to get dull I found that it just needed a good solvent cleaning because of pitch build up.


-- Make Dust

View Karson's profile


35278 posts in 5638 days

#7 posted 02-16-2007 05:39 AM

I stand corrected about the sharpening grit that my sharper used on his resharpening. When I talked to him today he said that normal sharpening is 180 grit and that his furniture grade sharpening is 400 grit.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected]

View dennis mitchell's profile

dennis mitchell

3994 posts in 5552 days

#8 posted 02-16-2007 05:55 AM

I keep a can of oven cleaner in my shop to clean my blades. Spray on wipe off.

View Bill Cowan's profile

Bill Cowan

110 posts in 5343 days

#9 posted 03-08-2007 03:48 AM

I use Ridge Carbide. They apparently use a 1200 grit diamond wheel for sharpening. I have some of their blades and literally can joint an edge with’em. I cut a lot of miters with very dense woods w/o chipout. I also have one on my Compound miter saw.

These are really scary sharp, and they can sharpen bades for 13 bucks.

-- ICN, Bill, (

View Dusty's profile


785 posts in 5393 days

#10 posted 03-08-2007 04:14 AM

I must be the exception and odd ball here.

I do clean the pitch off my blades and am very very careful not to hit nails etc. However, I feel very strong that its not a sharp blade that is the one that is dangerous. I firmly believe its the dull blade that can really cause all kind of safety issues not to mention all sorts of problems with the wood. To this day I haven’t had a saw blade sharpened nor will . I am careful , keep them clean and when they get dull I change them.


I then either donate them to a new woodworker, habitat for humanity, or sell them for little or nothing at a garage sale or just give them away.

I have did this since I started woodworking. I think it goes back to the days when I operated heavy equipment and fought “sharpened” cutting edges all day on my scraper. The wear and tear on my machine not to mention addition fuel consumption simply wasn’t worth it to me.

-- Dusty

View Bill's profile


2579 posts in 5399 days

#11 posted 03-08-2007 05:50 PM

I would agree that the dull saw blades are more dangerous than the sharp ones. When the blade is dull, you have to apply more pressure to get the wood through, which can cause all kinds of problems. I did not notice this until my dad recently changed the blade on his saw. Wow, what a difference a sharp blade made. It was almost like a different animal. Now, things are a pleasure to cut, they flow smoothly, and much less tendency for binding, etc.

-- Bill, Turlock California,

View Max's profile


55999 posts in 5510 days

#12 posted 03-08-2007 08:44 PM

I have never had any problems with re-sharpened table saw blades. All of the blades that I use are carbide tipped, as I believe most of all of everybody’s is. I take them to a local sharpening business that I use for my planer blades as well. They check all of the tips under a microscope and replace any that are nicked or cracked and sharpen and balance them. Have had great success with them…

-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT

View Bill Cowan's profile

Bill Cowan

110 posts in 5343 days

#13 posted 03-08-2007 09:59 PM

The new issue of WoodWorkers Journal has an article on blade sharpening. To my surprise the owner of Ridge Carbide who I use, was interviewd on the topic.

-- ICN, Bill, (

View hammbone's profile


5 posts in 3551 days

#14 posted 02-03-2012 04:17 PM


View Grandpa's profile


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#15 posted 02-03-2012 05:25 PM

Obi, there has been an Oliver saw for sale all fall that takes a 16 inch blade. I sent the link to Bertha once because he always wants the largest of everything. If a 7 1/4 skil saw works he wants a 10” know the type. Anyway, I couldn’t find it but they are out there. It was on Craig’s list….I think in Houston.

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