Router edge guide problem Hellllllp!

You haven’t said exactly what problem you are having, but since you haven’t used a router before, I’m going to guess. If I’m wrong, I’m certain that you will need to know these sooner or later.

You are likely having the router try to pull out of your hands when you try to use it. This is called “climb cutting”. Although climb cutting can be an advantage for certain very light cutting requirements, it is NOT the direction that you should be routing when you are first learning. It’s easy to be confused by this since the router is round and can be rotated in any direction to be used.

If this is your problem, you should be moving the router in the opposite direction along the edge of the board. The rotation of the bit should be pulling the board tighter against the fence, and not pushing away from it.

Try using this diagram to determine the right direction.

If this isn’t your problem, please describe your problem better. Explain what you are doing and what is happening. Pictures would help too, if you can post them.

Is it a problem with the router pulling away from you or is it the bit depth of cut that you are having trouble with? Are you using the fixed base or the plunge base?

You mentioned a height gauge. A digital caliper or height gauge can be of help when setting depth of cut if you need it to be that accurate, but setting it close by eye or machinist ruler and then trying a short cut on a piece of scrap. Then adding a little more or less depth of cut based on the result on the scrap from your previous setting should get you there too, after a couple of trial settings and cuts. Always try at least one cut on scrap before attempting the cut on your project. If the cut needs to fit to another piece that you have already cut, try setting the router depth using the other part as a gauge.

Charley

I’m a little confused too. How would a height gauge help with an edge guide?

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

Use a piece of 1/4 plywood or cut a scrap strip of wood on the table saw, put it on the base plate and adjust height until the end of the bit is flush with the wood. Cut another piece the distance of your rabbet, stick the piece between the bit and the guide and adjust the guide until it’s slightly snug.

My problem was getting the router to cut the rabbet exactly 6×6mm. I set the router bit 6 mm high by using a drill bit (1/4 drill bit = 0.23622047mm). I then set the distance that the bit protruded from the edge guide by eyeballing using the 1/4” drill bit. Every thing was close but no cigar. I adjusted the router plunge just a little and the protrusion from the edge guide just a little. I did this several times but never got both measurements exactly on the money. Sometime I went too far, sometimes not far enough. I did this for around 2 hrs and it was never exactly right on both measurements. So I took a break and came in here to whine concerning my incompetence. I’m sure I’ll get this worked out, I am just having a bad day. Sorry to bother you guys with my whining. I’ll get it.
I just wish there was some way I could blame this on my wife.

1/4” = 6.35mm, probably too much error. Have you got a 15/64” bit? It’s 5.95mm, much closer.

You are cutting a rabbet, not a dado, so the edge if the board is the edge of the rabbet, right?

It’s tricky to use an edge guide to run a rabbit. Usually, it works best to use a router table with a fence. If you have to use an edge guide, jam the bit between the spacer (drill bit) and the edge guide. Don’t do it by eye.

OK, I have it. I had to run a 6×6mm Rabbet 1’ 11” along the edge of a 6 ‘6” piece of plywood 18” wide. There were four rabbets that had to be cut. With so large a board I felt I had to use an edge guide. I finally got it right. It was just one of those days. I’m diabetic and sometimes my ciphering and adjusting can become somewhat impaired. I try to keep a close eye on it but sometimes it gets the best of me.
There were obvious adjustments on this new edge guide that I should have picked-up on immediately but I just missed them. The fences on the guide could be adjusted closer together and closer to the wood being cut; this allowed me to make the measurements needed, with my caliper.
Thanks for the help.

M

-- Madmark - [email protected] Wiretreefarm.com

You never mentioned what diameter bit you were using, a 1/4” bit is what you need for a 1/4” dado, but a larger diameter bit will usually work better for cutting a rabbet. You never mentioned what tolerances you were attempting either, perfection can be pursued but not achieved, if you’re shooting for tolerances typically reserved for metalworking you’re likely going to be disappointed.

-- “I never in my life thought I would have to say this, but the proper role of government is not to fund the distribution of crack pipes,” Lauren Boebert

I was using 1/2” bit and yes sir, I was trying for tolerances that were unrealistic. I have now completed the task within more reasonable parameters. Thank you very much for your reply.

For through rabbets I prefer a dado blade at the tablesaw, just because it is so quick and easy. For stopped rabbets a router with edge guide works well.

I use brass setup bars from Whiteside, and have found them very useful for router setups. I like the longer 4” version.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

When I work wood, I strive for and get tolerances that are considered unrealistic to attain. All you have to do is use scrap material and trial cuts; measure; cut; check; repeat until you are right on the money. My woodworking is mostly building scale model trains (large scale) and that requires very close tolerances. First I layout my cuts; then I cut oversize; measure; readjust; cut again until I reach the desired dimension. Most furniture makers will tell you they don’t rely solely on dimensions. They cut/trim until it fits. Of course it depends on how accurate your tools are and how accurately you can set the tool. There is a good reason why there is such a price range between tools. The more expensive tools, like Festool can make it easier to attain precision than you can with one from Harbor Freight; not always, but usually so.

Another factor is; how well do you know your tool. A tool by itself doesn’t do anything. It’s up to the user to know and guide the tool; the definition of a tool.