Boiled Linseed Oil over Trans Tint

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Forum topic by Dj1225 posted 05-12-2016 04:34 PM 1738 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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75 posts in 3188 days

05-12-2016 04:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: trans tint waterlox table finish

I am making a dining table for a friend out of walnut and ash. The base is walnut, the top primarily ash, with some walnut inlay. Some of the walnut in the base had a hint of gray in it, so I used a little trans tint dye in alcohol to even out the color. It did great. Now I was planning on applying boiled linseed oil next to enhance the grain, and then a top coat.

I thought I recalled that boiled linseed oil was fine over TT, and on my test piece it seems to be fine. But I have a lot of hours in this project and really do not want to screw it up.

So any advice would be appreciated. Also suggestions for a durable top coat. I usually use waterlox over cured linseed oil, but not sure on this project. The lady wants the ash top as natural as possible.

In reading, I saw that a light coat of shellac and then poly might work for a durable finish.

The more I read, the dumber I get :)

As always thanks for your input.

-- Dave

1 reply so far

View Kirk650's profile


707 posts in 1716 days

#1 posted 05-12-2016 05:17 PM

Most of the dyes I use are TT mixed in water, after that I usually use Watco Danish Oil or Minwax Antique Oil to pop the grain, rather than BLO. BLO is slow to dry, if ever. Then I use Waterlox. Good stuff.

These days I don’t use BLO much at all. If you decide to use the Danish Oil, wait at least three days to let it dry before you put a finish over it. If you use the Antique Oil, just waiting a day should be Ok.

If you don’t let the underlying material dry, the top coat may never dry. Ask me how I know that. :-)

Also, Waterlox is often used on house floors, so durability should be fine as long as you wait till it cures. I also use it on gunstocks and have been very pleased with the look and toughness.

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