Biesmeyer fence falls into miter slots

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Forum topic by Alan S posted 03-29-2010 05:48 PM 1549 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Alan S

181 posts in 3853 days

03-29-2010 05:48 PM

Does this happen to anyone else or do I have my fence setup wrong. As I am sliding my fence across my table saw, when it goes over the miter slots, it kinda rocks a little and each side will fall into the miter slot. I have to coerce the fence to go across the slots. Is it just me?


8 replies so far

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3934 days

#1 posted 03-29-2010 05:55 PM

That is not normal for any fence and ertainlly not a Biesemeyer. One thing to check is the height of the front rail to which the guide tube mounts. If that is too low it will cause that interference with the miter slots and can cause problems locking the fence in place on the tube if it is a big error. The fence kit should have a spec for how far beneath the table surface the front rail should be. You have to get that dimension right for the fence to work properly.

-- Tom Hintz,

View Alex Lane's profile

Alex Lane

552 posts in 4426 days

#2 posted 03-29-2010 06:16 PM

I’ve found that this happens on nearly EVERY t-square fence I’ve ever used, including the Biesemeyer and my own custom-built t-square fence. The exception to this is some of the Steel City fences, which have a support that rides on a piece of angle steel on the back of the table saw. I’ve closely examined how the Biesemeyer fences are built, and the plywood sides are mounted slightly lower than the bottom of the fence tube steel. There is a piece of UHMW or HDPE nestled on the bottom of the fence tube, toward the end furthest away from the cam-lock. It is supposed to support the far end of the fence and keep the fence sides from falling into the miter slot. Over time, this plastic can wear down (or it may be too thin to begin with…) causing the fence sides to “fall” off of the table saw’s surface and into the slots. There is adhesive UHMW tape available that can be applied to the bottom of the existing plastic glide to ‘shim’ the fence back up to a proper height, preventing the sides from ever dropping below the saw top. You want to get the bottom of the fence sides to ride just barely above the table surface. As soon as you move the fence over a miter slot, the sides should remain elevated above the slot, and the plastic piece underneath the fence should be the only thing touching the top of the TS.

-- Alex...builder of wooden wings for vintage sport biplanes...I'm your wingman :)

View Michael Murphy's profile

Michael Murphy

453 posts in 3541 days

#3 posted 03-29-2010 06:54 PM

I’ve had no problem with mine in 25 years. Check what those guys said. Especially the height of the front rail because the TEE part of the fence rides on it and holds it up at the height it needs to clear the slots.

-- Michael Murphy, Woodland, CA.

View SnowyRiver's profile


51458 posts in 4016 days

#4 posted 03-29-2010 06:59 PM

No problems with that here either.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View ajosephg's profile


1881 posts in 4097 days

#5 posted 03-29-2010 07:07 PM

If the Biesemeyer fence sides are attached like the Delta T2, they can be adjusted up (or down). Turn the fence upside down and look inside – there are nuts that can be loosened to adjust the fence sides.

-- Joe

View Alan S's profile

Alan S

181 posts in 3853 days

#6 posted 03-29-2010 07:10 PM

Thanks for everyone’s replies! I bought the saw and fence used and had to reattach the fence rails when I got it all home. I’m not sure that I got the fence rails attached at the proper height, so that might be my problem. I’ll look for a simple adjustment on the fence itself tonight and decide how much trouble it’s going to be to fix. Thanks!


View rockom's profile


134 posts in 4407 days

#7 posted 03-30-2010 06:52 AM

I just installed one on my saw this evening. The front rail is installed with the horizontal surface 2-27/32” below the table surface. Mine came with an L shaped template to adjust it. You can easily make one. The short part of the L (inside) needs to be 2-27/32” long. Also, inspect the plastic pad on the fence itself for damage. Maybe it’s missing.


-- -> Malta, IL -<

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

6682 posts in 3730 days

#8 posted 03-30-2010 07:40 AM

Greetings Alan:..... No problem here with my B. fence. It works perfect, so your adjustments are out of whack…. just re-adjust, and you’re good to go.

-- " The secret to staying young looking.....hang around old people.." R.D.

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