Band saw guidepost alignment

How about contacting Jet, nothing better then the source.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

Does it move forward or backward? (do the guides get farther away from the blade when you raise it, or farther away when you lower it?)

If the guides get farther away when you RAISE the guidepost, stick some thin shim stock in between the castings (where the big bolt is on the frame) BEHIND the bolt to tilt the upper part of the frame forward. If the guides get farther away when LOWER the post, shims go IN FRONT of the bolt to tip the upper casting backward.
Does that make sense to you? If not, i can post some pictures to illustrate.

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

You will find most if not all band saws do this. That is why they have the adjustments on the guides. The manual tells you to check this each time you move the guides.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

You will find most if not all band saws do this. That is why they have the adjustments on the guides. The manual tells you to check this each time you move the guides.

- johnstoneb

True, but a full 1/8th inch of travel is ALOT. Mine only moves by about 1/64 over 6 inches of travel.

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

Could be a factory defect or a wheel alignment issue maybe?

It may not be the machine it may be the blade not being plum front to back.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

I imagine there are several design changes the Jets have gone through, but typically the guide post has adjustments where it is attached to the frame. My (non-Jet) saw has four set screws that allow of adjusting the ‘tilt’ of the post and for zeroing out any twist. It seems that setting the guide post square to the blade over its full travel is one of the first adjustments to do (followed by squaring up the table/miter slot).

I have re read the manual and there is no means to adjust the guide post. I will have to adjust the guides when I change the height. I must say that when the guides are adjusted the cut is very good, I can easily make 1/16 inch slices, but I usually make 1/8 inch slices to allow for sanding. The saw is about 11years old and this is the first time I have really paid close attention to tuning it up. Woodraccoon has nailed the issue, in my case the guides move away from the blade and I can see that his solution would correct the issue. I am sure that this is a common problem that goes unnoticed or people just re adjust the guides.I would like to note here that before I added the riser block I never noticed the issue, I added the block about 6 mo ago. It may be something to watch out for for those who will be adding a riser block to their bandsaw.Thanks to all who have responded

Sounds like your riser block addition is the issue then. It may not be machined properly. A machine shop should be able to dress it up properly for you for little expense.

I have re read the manual and there is no means to adjust the guide post. I will have to adjust the guides when I change the height. I must say that when the guides are adjusted the cut is very good, I can easily make 1/16 inch slices, but I usually make 1/8 inch slices to allow for sanding. The saw is about 11years old and this is the first time I have really paid close attention to tuning it up. Woodraccoon has nailed the issue, in my case the guides move away from the blade and I can see that his solution would correct the issue. I am sure that this is a common problem that goes unnoticed or people just re adjust the guides.I would like to note here that before I added the riser block I never noticed the issue, I added the block about 6 mo ago. It may be something to watch out for for those who will be adding a riser block to their bandsaw.Thanks to all who have responded

- mandatory66

Glad i could help!

eflanders is right, sometimes the riser block kits aren’t machined properly. You COULD go to a machine shop and have them correct any non-parallelism in the machined faces of the block, or you could shim it instead and save a little change. Whatever you do, let us know how it works out!

-- still trying to think of a clever signature......

I have a similar problem in that whenever I change the height of my correctly aligned blade/guide/guard setup, I notice it will horizontally pivot slightly in either direction but if I eyeball it back to center then it will stay in place once the guide is tightened.
Is this common in all saws?
Is there a workaround for this problem?