looking for a raised panel style name

Here is a mitered door and a cope and stick door similar to what you are saying.


Every company will name the door different. You don’t need any specialty bits for these. Simply make the door frame like the one I blogged (shaker door becomes….) and then rabbet the panel all the way around using the dado set on the table saw. You could also bevel the panel edges on the table saw as well. HTH

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

yep the bottom is very close to what I was looking for…Is that hickory?

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

The supplier called it pecan, so we’ll say hickory. LOL. If you want a bevel on the frame and you are doing the cope and stick style you will most likely need to find a cope and stick bit for that profile. You don’t need a bit if you miter the corners.

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

http://www.woodline.com/p-1708-2pc-tongue-groove-bit-with-15-facecut-for-shaker-doors-1-12-diameter-1-cutting-length-1.aspx
Or
http://www.woodline.com/p-2112-2-pc-wedge-rail-and-stile.aspx

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

actually I was going to have them flat faced…ill post my sketchup idea when I get it worked out…

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

You can make the panel with a dado cutter. Simply take the groove depth, minus spaceball diameter, of your rail and stile add on the width of the groove you want and just make a cut front and back all the way around. If your tongue is centered as well as the grooves in your rail and stile, you will have a flush front door with an equal groove all the way around. Hope that is helpful.

-- Doubt kills more dreams than failure.

hmm I thought I posted this…guess not…

I am actully going to make the center panel a little proud of the rails and stiles…I think (at least from my sketchup) that looks better than flush…put a minor roundover on the edge of the panel and I think it will look pretty cool

one thing I was wondering though in my lost post…would 1/16 be too narrow with wood movement? I have 1/8 now…what do you think?

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

I think you can still use the dado and just grind the top bearing off a 1/8” router bit, offset the fence on your router table and you will get that nice roundover you want on the upper face. For peace of mind I would go with 1/8 space.

-- Doubt kills more dreams than failure.

yep…thanks rhett…I was planning on using my dado blade or straight router bit…I cant wait to get started…

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.