Norms router table

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Forum topic by lateralus819 posted 01-15-2016 12:28 AM 1851 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2243 posts in 3005 days

01-15-2016 12:28 AM

For anyone who’s built this.

What is the arrangement for the top drawers?

I know there are 4 on the left and 3 on the right with a faux on the top right for power and such.

How many bit drawers are their? Wrench drawers? Looking at the creston wood plans and it doesn’t seem to actually say.

10 replies so far

View Ghidrah's profile


667 posts in 2338 days

#1 posted 01-15-2016 02:17 AM

Norms old RT was a slightly modified version of the “Revolutionary Router Table” plans offered in the “American Woodworker” mag from 1995. I built the dupe of the RRT from the AW mag in 97, it has 2 drawers on the right side, the electrical box takes up 1 and the elevator cable takes up the 2nd. I didn’t go with the elevator screw, I couldn’t seem to find the vendor for the parts so lifted my router out to make the changes till I bought the Benchdog pro a few yrs later. 5 drawers on my rig are filled with bits, top left has tools, bottom left is “still” empty.

-- I meant to do that!

View Carey  Mitchell's profile

Carey Mitchell

190 posts in 3074 days

#2 posted 01-15-2016 03:40 AM

I built it about 10 years ago, here’s the link to the post:

On the left side the top drawer is for wrenches, colletts, etc.
2nd drawer 1/4” bits
3rd drawer 1/4” bits
bottom misc. large bits (raised panel, etc)

Right side
top drawer has the bottom only to accommodate wiring from switch
2nd drawer 1/2”
3rd drawer 1/2”
bottom – unused

Note on the link that I made some changes in the dust collection so I could get the table closer to the wall.

View woodchuckerNJ's profile


1494 posts in 2749 days

#3 posted 01-15-2016 04:04 AM

Why does it even matter?
Build it to your specs.

Also do not close the router in with a door, or put a dc sucking the dust from the cabint unless you pull the dust out around the bit.

Routers cool the motor from the head to the bit. Putting a dc in the cabinet will starve the motor for air, and in my case I kept going through switches (packing the dust) before I figured out what a terrible idea that was. Instead I suck the dust out from the bit area (built a shroud that surrounds the bit area where it works). Not perfect but it works pretty good.

-- Jeff NJ

View HickoryHill's profile


236 posts in 5262 days

#4 posted 01-15-2016 04:09 AM

Just built one myself….......gotta finish the fence yet so no completion pics.

3 lefts drawers are for 1/2” shanks. Top right is the fake on for power switch. 2nd on right is an actual drawer box for wrenches and what not. 3rd on right is for 1/4” shanks.

Below that is a left and right drawer. Below that is one big drawer.

-- Jim, Michigan

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7021 posts in 3609 days

#5 posted 01-15-2016 12:22 PM

I only have 6 (one wrench drawer) but I suggest you make one of the bits drawers a little taller for some of the taller bits you may have or will acquire.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View ScottM's profile


756 posts in 3262 days

#6 posted 01-15-2016 12:51 PM

I built the Creston version with 3 content drawers on the left and 2 bit drawers on the right; one for 1/4” bits and one for 1/2”. I don’t, yet, have a grand collection of bits so it’s working out for me so far. I only made two but made them tall enough for just about anything that I figured I’d need.

View CB_Cohick's profile


493 posts in 2366 days

#7 posted 01-15-2016 01:14 PM

On mine I use two of the drawers for 1/4” bits, two for 1/2” bits, and the two deeper drawers for bigger 1/2” bits. One for wrenches, collets, and a depth gauge, and the other is a blank for power cords. The drawers in the bottom hold bases, a laminate router, circle jigs, template bearings, and other router accessories.

-- Chris - Would work, but I'm too busy reading about woodwork.

View ScottM's profile


756 posts in 3262 days

#8 posted 01-15-2016 01:26 PM

One additional note. If you plan on making the Creston version and you want it on wheels, I would eliminate the toe kick cutout. There’s no need for it because adding the wheels essentially gives you the same toe kick height. There has been several occasions where I’ve almost tipped it over when moving it and it hits something on the floor like a cord. I think removing the toe kick would give more stability. You’ve got a lot of weight on the table top so spreading the wheels further forward would help.

View bonesbr549's profile


1588 posts in 4182 days

#9 posted 01-15-2016 01:43 PM

I built mine to his plans and you could change the configuration around to suit you, but I like the wrench/catch all drawer. I don’t have too many 1/4” bits so a whole drawer for them is a wast IMO. I have all the bottom drawers full of things. I put mine up on casters to roll it around. I also used 2 3/4 mdf pieces to make it a tad thicker, and made it bigger (wider and deeper) more table surface the better! I put an incra fence on mine and attach only with small clamps to make it easy to remove for hands free work. Looking back only change I’d make is i’d make the dust port in the back a 4” not the little one thats in the plans and I’d only have a small space for 1/4” bits as mentioned. Mines been going strong for 10+ years

Here’s mine (wife did the stained glass 7518 on the door)

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View jusfine's profile


2422 posts in 4041 days

#10 posted 01-15-2016 03:26 PM

Bones, I really like your stained glass door!

Kevin, I found a great deal on a Jessem stand and top, built a couple drawers for bits and odds and ends. My project and info on making it is here.

Not as dedicated as your individual drawers, but I find if I buy another bit or two, I have to expand my storage.

All the Best!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

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