before Finishing the shop with insulation/drywall

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Forum topic by justjkit posted 01-02-2016 05:28 AM 1074 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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21 posts in 1434 days

01-02-2016 05:28 AM

I’m going to be insulating and drywalling my 2.5 car garage tomorrow. This is the next step into building my new shop.

I’m going to eventually need to build some sort of wood containment/storage systems on my walls or ceilings.

Question .. is there anything I should prep for before sealing up the walls with drywall? Any of you wish you built your storage solutions before you drywalled the place up?

Any suggestions or recommendations for me before I do this?

Appreciate it! Thanks for all the help for this newbie thus far!

-- Member intro and shop build:

16 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5831 posts in 3050 days

#1 posted 01-02-2016 01:03 PM

I’ve done it twice and both times I left marks at the ceilings for the stud (and rafter) locations so I wouldn’t have to search for them. Otherwise I can’t think of anything else you would do. It will be interesting to see other replies as to what I missed.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Paul's profile


721 posts in 2122 days

#2 posted 01-02-2016 01:07 PM

Any reason your stuck on using drywall? If I were to do it over I would have skipped drywall and covered my walls in OSB or another sheet good that I could directly screw into anywhere.


View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 1734 days

#3 posted 01-02-2016 01:28 PM

I did the same as Fred, marking both the top and bottom of the studs so I could easily find them.

Make sure you have sufficient outlets. Even if you currently don’t need 240V you may in the future so think about adding the outlet box and wire before covering the wall.

For the studs that will be holding the vertical wood rack I doubled up on the studs gluing and screwing them together to prevent the weight of the wood from over time causing the stud to bend.

As Paul suggested I used OSB and painted it white to reflect light.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View Knothead62's profile


2600 posts in 3518 days

#4 posted 01-02-2016 01:31 PM

I made my shop walls in my garage from cheap OSB. Why go to the trouble of putting up drywall? In a shop, drywall will be subject to dings, scratches, and dents. JMHO.

View mahdee's profile


4291 posts in 2325 days

#5 posted 01-02-2016 03:22 PM

I agree with the OSB use. Also, I have all of my outlets at about 3’ high so all the plugs are above counters and machines.


View cracknpop's profile


368 posts in 2906 days

#6 posted 01-02-2016 03:28 PM

My attached garage is finished with drywall because my wife wanted it (life is always better when the wife is happy). In my unattached garage/workshop, I used OSB on walls and ceiling because of durability and ability to screw lighter items anywhere. Cabinets and shelves still get attached to studs.

As mentioned above, I would certainly leave marks of some kind indicating where studs are. In my attached, drywalled garage, I left the bottom drywall screw flush and did not cover it with mud.

Put in more receptacles than you think you need(I put them at different heights too). Even if you don’t have 220v equip now, still may want to add a couple receptacles now, or perhaps a couple conduit runs to wall boxes that you can run 220 wire in later.

Don’t know if you have room above your garage like I do, but I put in a pull down attic ladder for easier access later.

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5831 posts in 3050 days

#7 posted 01-02-2016 07:58 PM

Be aware you may have a code requirement calling for drywall in an attached garage.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View GT350's profile


374 posts in 2539 days

#8 posted 01-02-2016 08:08 PM

I guess I go against the grain here, I like drywall, once painted I think it looks better than OSB. Putting a few conduits runs in is a good idea. I ran all my wiring in conduit so I could change or add things later, one plus was the inspector was very happy with it.

View teejk02's profile


504 posts in 1682 days

#9 posted 01-02-2016 08:36 PM

I’d suggest some “blocking” between the studs for future anchoring but that requires knowing exactly where you will want stuff (and I think it complicates your insulation somewhat). So button it up and learn about “French cleats”!

View dhazelton's profile


2839 posts in 2854 days

#10 posted 01-02-2016 09:32 PM

As folks have already said, if it’s an attached garage you may need a fire rated wall on the house side which is sometimes two layers of drywall.

View teejk02's profile


504 posts in 1682 days

#11 posted 01-02-2016 09:59 PM

As folks have already said, if it s an attached garage you may need a fire rated wall on the house side which is sometimes two layers of drywall.

- dhazelton

yup on the first part (other than “you may need”...I think it’s a given anywhere now). Drywall has evolved a lot so the double layer is usually only for remodels where the “type X” wasn’t used or can’t be determined. As an aside, I remember having to hang 5/8” on ceilings to minimize the sags. They now have stiffer 1/2” ceiling board…one wouldn’t think it would matter much but it does! And as another aside, A1Jim opened up a topic on “useless tools” and I laughed when somebody posted the “multi-tool”. I remodeled my MIL’s bathroom last year and took a chance on one from Menards. To this day I wonder why I didn’t own one earlier for drywall work…cutting in outlet boxes was a breeze.

View teejk02's profile


504 posts in 1682 days

#12 posted 01-02-2016 10:01 PM


View SawdustTX's profile


315 posts in 2881 days

#13 posted 01-02-2016 11:00 PM

Guess it’s too late if you were putting it up today, but I’ll second (or 3rd or 4th or whatever we’re at) on using some kind of wood vs. drywall. if you screw wood siding to the studs, then when you need to get into the wall later (when – not if), you can just pull the screws, take down the board, do the in-wall work (electrical, air, plumbing, removing dead mice, etc), and then screw the board back to the studs.

Personally, I’m using old fence pickets, planed down to 3/8” thick, then attached to the studs as horizontal lap siding.

That said, you can’t beat the look, cost, and sound deadening qualities of drywall.

Whatever you do, show us the results!

View MT_Stringer's profile


3183 posts in 3788 days

#14 posted 01-02-2016 11:14 PM

If the OP has a plan for future installation of anything hung from the ceiling, It would be a good idea to install blocking in between the ceiling joists to help with the installation.

My garage already had drywall, so I used a French cleat attached to the wall that I hung my cabinets from. That has worked great. Once hung, I located a stud and ran a three inch screw into the stud to anchor the cabinet. IF I need to relocate the cabinet(s), I can simply remove the screws and lift the cabinet off the cleat.

More info and pis on the cabinet, cleat and electrical upgrade here.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View justjkit's profile


21 posts in 1434 days

#15 posted 01-03-2016 01:22 AM

this forum is awesome. thanks to all for the responses. I’m going to start a separate shop build thread on my build and explain the purpose and document the journey and results.

thanks to all and check for the thread soon!

-- Member intro and shop build:

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

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