Forum topic by Dogfisher | posted 11-26-2015 05:00 PM | 1083 views | 0 times favorited | 9 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
11-26-2015 05:00 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: rustic arts and crafts finishing miter saw question I have a end table project that incorporates 3/8” discs cut from downed limbs of various species and size. I’ve arranged them on a plywood tabletop and plan on grouting in between them. I’ve shellaced them about 8 times but they keep drying with shiny parts and dull parts. I’m assuming that they’ll eventually stop absorbing but I’m concerned about the too coats not having a smooth finish. I sand down the high points in between coats. Any advice for applications would be greatly appreciated! -- RMiller, New Jersey, http://inflatus1.wix.com/rsmiller |
9 replies so far
#1 posted 11-26-2015 05:06 PM |
I have found that sanding and Shellac don’t work all that great, I usually plane end grain smooth and Shellac goes on much better. -- Lifting one end of the plank. |
#2 posted 11-26-2015 06:05 PM |
I’m meant “top coats” in my first post. Planing is not an option for me. -- RMiller, New Jersey, http://inflatus1.wix.com/rsmiller |
#3 posted 11-26-2015 06:18 PM |
iF I understand correctly, then andre is correct..you are trying to shellac end grain discs. Are they all dry as a bone? Is there a big difference between the heartwood and sapwood? Between the different species? Shellac would have trouble with these differences in the wood. |
#4 posted 11-26-2015 06:49 PM |
They were pretty dry when I started. They dry spots are erratic. Not restricted to heart wood. I’m just trying to figure out if there is a trick to getting the top coat smooth. There should be a point when the discs stop absorbing. Then hopefully the coats will be more even drying. -- RMiller, New Jersey, http://inflatus1.wix.com/rsmiller |
#5 posted 11-26-2015 06:57 PM |
I read that you can do a sand with a very fine grit (400) and this was supposed to reduce the absorption. The purpose of this was to finish a table top so that the face grain and end grain would look the same. It might help. -- jstegall |
#6 posted 11-27-2015 01:28 AM |
I finished some old growth redwood end grain that I had the same issues with: the early wood and late wood absorb finish at different rates (my redwood was like shellacking a sponge). I just kept applying more shellac, sanding lightly with 320 grit, and it eventually came out very even. -- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm |
#7 posted 11-27-2015 02:57 AM |
Awesome. That’s what I wanted to hear. -- RMiller, New Jersey, http://inflatus1.wix.com/rsmiller |
#8 posted 11-27-2015 03:23 AM |
|
#9 posted 11-27-2015 05:10 AM |
Nice work. -- RMiller, New Jersey, http://inflatus1.wix.com/rsmiller |
Have your say...
You must be signed in to reply.
|
Forum | Topics |
---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
13250 |
Woodturning
|
2832 |
Woodcarving
|
580 |
Scrollsawing
|
417 |
Joinery
|
1914 |
Finishing
|
6408 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
7949 |
Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
32965 |
CNC Woodworking
|
335 |
Hand Tools
|
6491 |
Jigs & Fixtures
|
1826 |
Wood & Lumber
|
7313 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
1647 |
Focus on the Workspace
|
2645 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
1273 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
5439 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
2401 |
Coffee Lounge
|
9686 |