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Forum topic by Jake238 posted 11-13-2015 06:27 PM 1579 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Jake238's profile


2 posts in 2382 days

11-13-2015 06:27 PM

Topic tags/keywords: treat help wood pine untreated patio

I joined this forum because I find myself in a bit of a bind. My wife and I have wanted a backyard patio for years and a couple of weeks ago we finally pulled the trigger. In a rush, we had contractors pour a slab and also set some pine beams into the slab for us about two and a half feet deep. The pine beams were freshly cut untreated from a mill. They are 8×8x10 and I am searching for a way, if there is any, to treat them now that they are already set into the slab. The patio we want to build will have an A-frame tin roof so, it will not bear much weight. I understand that I should have picked some pressure treated lumber from the start but, hindsight is 20-20. Thanks for any help…

13 replies so far

View mahdee's profile


4291 posts in 3224 days

#1 posted 11-13-2015 06:42 PM

you can try Tim-Bro. If not, there at the feed store get some Kreso D. It is the same stuff the treat railroad ties and it stinks to high heaven for while.
Here is a link if you can't find it locally.


View Tedstor's profile


1691 posts in 4090 days

#2 posted 11-13-2015 06:47 PM

Won’t the portion of the wood under the slab still be untreated, and thus ,subject to rot?

View nashley's profile


46 posts in 2735 days

#3 posted 11-13-2015 07:08 PM

If the underground portion is in contact with soil, the only way to keep if from rotting is pressure treatment. Unfortunately, there’s no way to pressure treat it yourself. The best you could do now is to seal the above ground portion with an exterior sealer. Someone correct me if I’m wrong but, if the beams are “freshly cut” and still have a high moisture content, you will still need to wait until the wood is seasoned in order to apply any sealer to the above ground portion. Pressure treatment of wood requires the wood to be submerged in a container of preservative and a pressure or vacuum is applied. The liquid is forced into the wood and completely penetrates the wood. I’m assuming that the wood will have to be kiln dried or seasoned in order for the pressure treatment process to work, but I may be wrong.

For reference:

I’m no professional, but I would suggest either finding a way to remove the beam and reinstall treated lumber or talk to a professional who could offer another suggestion or fix it for you. If left as is, you’ve got a year or two before the below ground section rots.


-- Nathan

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 3818 days

#4 posted 11-13-2015 07:09 PM

Don’t worry about it.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 3826 days

#5 posted 11-13-2015 07:18 PM

If those beams were 8×8’s fresh cut, and put into concrete, I think you’re going to run into problems prior to dealing with rot issues. My guess is that the posts are going to be loose once they have enough time to dry a bit. 8×8 beams are going to shrink a bit. Granted, since they’re in concrete, this is going to take a while. If you can’t get them out without causing major issues now, I’d let it go and assume that I’ll have to deal with it, probably sooner rather than later, down the line. When that day comes, they may have worked loose to the point where you may be able to get them out and replace them with new beams, which opens up your options a bit to what you use, and what sort of anchoring you can pick from.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View MrUnix's profile


8996 posts in 3656 days

#6 posted 11-13-2015 07:25 PM

I agree with Ed… those things will shrink a bit as they dry out. That will give you some wiggle room and you should be able to pull them straight up with a pole puller so you can treat the bottoms or replace with PT. You might be able to pull them now if you have the right leverage, or if you have access to a tractor with a front end loader. A length of chain or large strap can be wrapped around them and yanked that way.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 3826 days

#7 posted 11-13-2015 07:41 PM

I’d be cautious about trying to remove them with a power equipment if they still seem pretty firm in the new concrete. If you’re set on trying to remove them before they get loose, I’d wait at least a month and then give them a few whacks on all sides with a sledge, to see if you can break the concrete/wood bond. Trying to remove posts that aren’t loosened somewhat could damage the new concrete, whether it be tearing out pieces at the surface, or causing it to fracture deeper.

But, I do like Brads idea because it involves a tractor. And tractors are fun.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Jake238's profile


2 posts in 2382 days

#8 posted 11-13-2015 08:06 PM

Thanks for the input. As far as coming into contact with the soil, I think we are safe but, I never thought about shrinkage. I think I’ll do some praying first (might need a miracle here) and then build a simple roof (using dry wood) and then, seal the pine beams when they dry out. Hopefully we can get a few good years out of it…I wonder if there is anything that I could inject into base after the shrinking???

View BurlyBob's profile


10468 posts in 3722 days

#9 posted 11-13-2015 08:35 PM

Jake another way to pull those beams after they dry out would be with a piece of tow chain and a Handyman jack.
I’ve pulled many posts that way. Takes a little work but certainly doable. But like Ed said Tractors are fun!!

View mahdee's profile


4291 posts in 3224 days

#10 posted 11-13-2015 08:35 PM

Another option is to cut the beams at base (they will dry a lot faster). Fill the holes with tar and replace the beams back in them. Once you put a roof on it, those beams go nowhere. For some reference, here is how I built my shop with treated 8x8's.


View runswithscissors's profile


3134 posts in 3482 days

#11 posted 11-15-2015 12:28 AM

As long as the part of the beam that’s in concrete doesn’t shrink (too much), the only vulnerable part will be at the surface of the slab. The part that’s sealed from air won’t rot (not as likely to, anyhow). In fact, if they do shrink a lot, you could first pour your preservative around the perimeter, then caulk with a good quality compound. I have had to replace a number of fenceposts, and always found only the top few inches at ground level were rotted. Everything below that was in perfect shape.

But no matter what you do, they aren’t going to outlast the pyramids.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View bondogaposis's profile


6183 posts in 3808 days

#12 posted 11-15-2015 12:35 AM

It is too late to do anything about it at this point. I would wait until they rot out before I’d replace them, it might take 20 years.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View jamfu's profile


26 posts in 2384 days

#13 posted 11-15-2015 01:40 AM

Cut it off flat , drill a bunch of holes in it to remove the material below the concrete line. fill in the hole with quickrete, then use these with concrete anchors. if you are clean about it you will not see the patchwork underneath the post.

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