Building a shop/ garrage

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Forum topic by Joe posted 10-06-2009 07:07 AM 2197 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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185 posts in 3960 days

10-06-2009 07:07 AM

So I am looking at having a shop/garage built behind my house. Just kicking it around right now and looking for ideas. I am sure a metal building would be the most cost efficient. I know Morton building are big where I grew up in IL.

I plan on making it somewhere around 24X30 or 30X40 and a 10 foot overhead door. I will want it on a slab and have electricity ran to it. I will also like to insulate it from the cold. Anyone have something like this built? I have no idea what something like this would cost. Anyone have a ball park price range.

If anyone has built or had a shop built and have any comments or ideas, please share them with me. My two car garage I want to use as a garage and I want to move all my WW equipment and other shop equipment to dedicated shop/ boat storage….

-- Senior Chief

15 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117800 posts in 4144 days

#1 posted 10-06-2009 07:16 AM

Before you build come up with a plan as to what kind of woodworking you want to do before you build. Then you can determain what equipment goes were such as power, lights, dust collection, walk ways,benches and more. If you need help designing your shop. Here’s a shop planner from grizzly that can help.

View GFYS's profile


711 posts in 4038 days

#2 posted 10-06-2009 08:43 AM

I see you are in NC? 24×30 with a 10 foot high overhead door will require about 11’2” ceiling (or more)
I’m guessing $35,000- $40,000… less if you build it. Metal buildings are nice but not as cheap as the shell would suggest. Foundation requirements, electrical in conduit, insulation, shipping, erection equipment, interior finish out all present difficulties and additional costs. Not saying they aren’t the way to go…It just depends on other factors that should be considered. Will you build it yourself? A gunny with two sons can probably do it!

View ajosephg's profile


1881 posts in 4128 days

#3 posted 10-06-2009 09:49 AM

What Jim and Dan said plus if there is anyway you can handle the larger size do it. Space is like clamps, you can’t have too much, and down the road you will be glad you did.

-- Joe

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185 posts in 3960 days

#4 posted 10-06-2009 10:51 AM

Ouch Dan, man I have I been in the dark or just out of touch. I was guessing 20-25K tops. I guess I will have to get some quotes. As far as me and the boys doing it. I don’t see that happening for a few reasons.

1. Not sure if I have the building knowledge for that.
2. My oldest boy leaves for the Navy next month.

But you did strike an interest. I am going to go and get some books on it.

And ah Dan….I am not a Marine Gunny. US Navy Senior Chief…. :)

-- Senior Chief

View degoose's profile


7264 posts in 3921 days

#5 posted 10-06-2009 12:11 PM

Gidday Senior Chief,, here in the land down under it would cost about 30K with all the bells and whistles.
I have a tin shed.. 20 by 40 with a 20 by 20 annex. Light and power on a concrete slab. Not heated not insulated and not lined. But I like it.

-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View Moron's profile


5043 posts in 4460 days

#6 posted 10-06-2009 02:03 PM

Renovating and building estimate guideline formula

Take the estimate and double it, then multiple by a factor of 1.25…...double that sum again and your getting close.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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Dan Lyke

1520 posts in 4692 days

#7 posted 10-06-2009 07:42 PM

The prices being thrown out here seem a little high, but I think that’s for two reasons:

1. Make absolutely sure that you’ve accounted for the cost of the slab and footings, and have taken the drawings down to your planning department, before you buy a steel building. My sister had an indoor riding arena go from in the $55k range to a hundred grand more than that because there were some … uh … miscommunications between the building vendor, my sister, and her local planning department about what sort of footings were needed.

2. Also account for the cost of wiring the place.

I’m currently drawing up plans for a 20×14 shop (got a really small lot, we’re in town) and I think I can do the whole thing for $10k including a living roof, but that means me doing all the labor, including the wiring.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California,

View Wudbutcher's profile


46 posts in 4273 days

#8 posted 10-06-2009 09:43 PM

I have a buddy that lives in NC and he did a 24×24 garage on a slab for 21K Not insulated standard double garage door. the garage was actually Amish built and brought to his property in two pieces. He did the wiring and insulation/sheet rock. after all said and done he had bout 28K in it. He had 100amp service ran to it. Not exactly what you are looking for but may be an option. I just finished my shop and pics are posted under my projects. cheers/wudbutcher

-- Big Steve

View khop's profile


134 posts in 4243 days

#9 posted 10-06-2009 10:21 PM

JOE, Think about value. If you spend 30k on a shop, it will last for many years and add value to your place. If you spend 30k on say a new SUV, what would that SUV be worth in 10 years? 30k isn’t all that bad when you get long term use and value from it.
Buy a hamberger for $5 or a hammer for $5, which one holds it’s value longer and can help you make money with it, and you can re-sell many years down the road as an antique.
Just a thought

-- How am I doing? Better than I deserve. Dave Ramsey

View GFYS's profile


711 posts in 4038 days

#10 posted 10-06-2009 10:41 PM

Cheif thats just an educated guess.
If you get some bids do so on referals from some one you know.
Insist on references and ask to see examples of their work in the area.
I’m not immediatly familiar with NC construction regulations but I am completely aware of how to find out.
If you need help, ask.
Yes I know what a senior chief is.. I was an MM2

View windfall's profile


5 posts in 3949 days

#11 posted 10-06-2009 11:03 PM

It always costs twice as much as you figure—- but do it and enjoy—Here’s a a link to some pix of what i put together a few years ago – close to what you are thinkin’ of——a lotta fun

-- "I" before "E" except after "C" and oh yeah! "Budweiser and Leinies"

View grizzman's profile


7836 posts in 3870 days

#12 posted 10-06-2009 11:57 PM

i know a lot of folks talk having it big, but now days things are getting mighty costly..heating and cooling…and have you considered a frame building instead of metal…wood floors are a whole lot nicer on your legs and back..concrete has no give…just some things to think about…the price of heating oil and gas are getting high…you might consider a nice wood stove for heat…i have one and its great…..getting wood isnt a problem and cheaper then all of the other sources….planning where your equipment will be..where you will need 220 verses 110…...and lots of outlets..there not to costly when your putting it in…..if you do pour a slab…a lot of guys put there duct work in for dust collection…plan for that…..and you want good lighting and lots of it…....well those are my thoughts…i have a 20 by 30..its plenty for a recreational shop…i dont plan on useing it commercialy..if you do consider that…and you will want a sealed finish room…that way to can still work and make dust and not worry about a project you are doing the finish work…and you will want exhaust fans….....get the ones with louvers that open and close when the fan is running…......a lot to consider…but fun also… can sure save a lot if you do the work. if you are’nt to familiar with construction…a few books can give you all you need to do it yourself…its really not that hard…...and will save you tons of money that you can other wise invest into your shop….......grizzman

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Joe's profile


185 posts in 3960 days

#13 posted 10-07-2009 12:31 AM

Thanks for all the input. Many things I did not consider. When I do start plugging in numbers I will do a lot of it myself. I have a lot of home work to do which is the way I do things anyway. I know a stick built building will have more curb appeal than a metal building. I do know this is in investment that hopefully I can get a return on when I sell. That’s another issue in itself. We want to sell in 3-5 years and buy at least 10 acres in the area. But who knows what the future brings with this housing market. Like I told my wife we can say we are moving and wait to build a shop later but that 3-5 year time frame could turn into 7, 10 or 15 years later and that’s time we could be enjoying a shop. Seeing that I spent 22 years in the Navy I have moved 9 times 3 of which were oversees so now that I know I will be staying in the area I guess I’m ready for something. So now I see I am just rambling and I am thankful for what I do have. Anyway thanks for all the great advice as always. I will keep you posted.

Hey Dan, as an MM2 was you a nuke or conventional?

-- Senior Chief

View GFYS's profile


711 posts in 4038 days

#14 posted 10-07-2009 01:02 AM

Nuke.. I went to Vallejo then to Groton.

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16875 posts in 3901 days

#15 posted 10-11-2009 11:58 PM

I would tend to think of the shop as potential added property value. Just like you probably wouldn’t overbuild your house for the area you live in, it would not be too smart to invest too heavily in a shop that you couldn’t get your money out of if you sell your house later on.

I would try to design a shop that offered a lot of flexibility instead of making it too specialized for one type of production. This would also make it more desirable to a potential house buyer who could more easily put the space to another use. One way to do this is to have a lot of electric points distributed around so you can change the position of machines to suit your project or changing needs. It isn’t a bad idea to have some in the ceiling as well. The same would go for ducting and such. It’s easy to reconfigure your shop these days with all the wheel set-ups available for all your machines. Another thing I would think seriously about is an enclosed separate finishing area with appropriate ventilation. It would not be very efficient to insulate the walls and ceiling and then leave the slab floor as it is. I have installed a floating floor in my shop that is a sandwich composed of concrete slab, heavy plastic sheeting moisture barrier, 2” thick Isopor, and lastly impregnated chipboard floor panels with tongue and groove joining. I don’t really know if you need this in North Carolina, but it sure works well for me here on the southwest coast of Norway where I would guess we only get maybe 20 days of snow on average each year.

Jim might disagree with me on this approach. He is a pro after all and knows a lot more about anything related to woodworking than I ever will, but I am trying to look at it from the viewpoint of a hobby woodworker with constantly changing interests and needs, which has been the case for myself. Whatever you do, good luck with your project. From a kiddie cruiser Boatswain’s Mate 1957-61.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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