Question from New Table Saw User

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Forum topic by Trucker posted 06-29-2015 04:12 AM 1436 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Trucker's profile


20 posts in 2006 days

06-29-2015 04:12 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw blade

Hi Everyone,
I have just started working with a table saw and I am having some issues with getting burn marks on the wood as I am cutting. I am using a DeWalt DWE7480 with a Diablo 80-tooth blade and trying to cut different widths of 8/4 walnut and soft maple. The burn marks are really a problem with the maple, but not so much with the walnut. The problem was more frequent with the fence set completely parallel and was better if I adjusted the fence to be slightly farther from the blade on the out-feed side. Am I doing something wrong? Any suggestions would be welcomed! I just want to make sure that I am doing this properly.


10 replies so far

View OhioMike's profile


89 posts in 3086 days

#1 posted 06-29-2015 04:23 AM

I only use an 80 tooth blade to achieve a super smooth finish when cross cutting. For rip cuts in solid lumber like you’re doing, a blade with much fewer teeth is more appropriate and will generate less heat. You might want to buy a combination blade with about 40 teeth and use it for almost everything. Or even a dedicated rip blade with about 24 teeth if you’re ripping a lot of 8/4 lumber. And with all portable job-site saws, thin-kerf blades are best because they require less horsepower.

Then use the 80 tooth blade to make extra smooth cross cuts in solid lumber or veneered plywood.


View Rob's profile


704 posts in 3994 days

#2 posted 06-29-2015 04:25 AM

Are you sure the fence was perfectly parallel to the same tooth at both the front an back of the blade slot?

Either way, ripping thick boards with a crosscut blade can clog the gullets and cause burning. Try switching to a combo blade or rip blade when ripping thick stock.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View Nubsnstubs's profile


1750 posts in 2653 days

#3 posted 06-29-2015 04:34 AM

What Mike said. An 80 tooth blade also requires more power to cut. How many times did your blade stop while cutting that 8/4?
Also, you are looking for issues by not having the fence parallel. Check your blade to see if it’s parallel with you guide slots. After that, set your fence parallel to the blade, and keep it there.
You will never be able to keep wood from moving while cutting, but set it up properly and using the right blade, you should be able to make clean cuts. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View bondogaposis's profile


5901 posts in 3274 days

#4 posted 06-29-2015 04:34 AM

An 80 tooth blade has way too many teeth for ripping, that’s a crosscut blade. Freud glue line rip blades have 30 teeth. That’s about max for ripping efficiently.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View esmthin's profile


77 posts in 2104 days

#5 posted 06-29-2015 04:50 AM

I think everyone covered anything else, I got nothing to add. Happy woodworking!

-- Ethan,

View runswithscissors's profile


3119 posts in 2948 days

#6 posted 06-29-2015 06:15 AM

Well, there are those who advocate having the fence set slightly farther away from the back of the blade, on the grounds that kickback is less likely, and also to lessen the likelihood of burning. I’m an agnostic about it, myself.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View RobinDobbie's profile


147 posts in 2658 days

#7 posted 06-29-2015 07:36 AM

Too bad it’s 8/4 and not a little less, my trick would almost work. I started using a 7-1/4” circular saw blade. I only get a height of just under 1-7/8” at 90 degrees, but the ease of cuts is incredible. I got it because I wasn’t happy with my Infinity Super General, and I wanted to do some bent lamination with oak. I knew I’d be throwing away over half my wood with the full-kerf, or even “thin kerf” blades, so I looked into other options. The kerf on this 40-tooth Diablo is 1/16”, so it’s quite a bit thinner than typical 10” thin-kerf blades. The cuts are quite nice on 4/4, haven’t tried on 8/4. You might pick up a 24-tooth version instead, but at $10-$15 each, why not get both?

View JCantin's profile


185 posts in 4335 days

#8 posted 06-29-2015 12:00 PM

Besides using an appropriate blade the other tip is to make your cut a hair wider than you need. Follow up with a very light skim cut to shave away any burn markes. Keep the workpiece moving through the cut.

View bigJohninvegas's profile


829 posts in 2385 days

#9 posted 06-29-2015 07:23 PM

I had some of the same problems with my new saw. Seems nothing on it was adjusted properly.
I had to fine tune everything.
There are several adjustments to check.
Here is a link on table saw tune up.
I keep my fence a coupe 1000th out at the back. And still had problems.
Turned out the blade itself was not straight. If I remember correctly, the adjustment is called healing.
Sets the blade to be parallel to the miter tracks. My saw was a full 32nd. out.
the link above shows one way to measure it. However you will have to refer to your user manuel to see how to adjust it, if needed.

-- John

View Woodbum's profile


942 posts in 3989 days

#10 posted 06-29-2015 07:56 PM

Welcome to, IMHO, the most useful and one of the most versatile tools in the shop. As was said above, lose the 80 tooth blade for ripping. 80 teeth are for smooth crosscuts. Either get a dedicated rip blade @ 20-30 teeth, or a good combination blade. Don’t know what your budget is, but I have used a 40 tooth Forrest Woodworker II for the last 10 years or so and really like them; but there are some very good combo blades out there at a lower price point. Kicking the fence out a bit on the offcut end works, but with a properly set up saw, a good blade and proper feed rate, you may not need to adjust the fence out of square. Good luck, have fun and work safely.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

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