Table saw setup question

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Forum topic by deucefour posted 09-06-2009 04:06 PM 1334 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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285 posts in 3736 days

09-06-2009 04:06 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw set up

I was wondering if anyone can tell me how accurate you need to be when setting up a table saw using a dial gauge? my miter slot to fence is .003 difference with the widest part to the rear of the saw, ive been told that this helps prevent burning, the miter slot to the blade difference is .004. I understand this may be being too particular but its my nature. can anyone advise if this is accurate enough?

5 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


8327 posts in 3857 days

#1 posted 09-06-2009 07:16 PM

Just be sure the tail of the blade isn’t pinching in toward the fence by that amount or it could bind/burn/kick back, etc., otherwise you’re fairly close.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3880 days

#2 posted 09-06-2009 08:57 PM

Your fence spec is right on what I shoot for. The blade is a bit more than I usse, normally 0.001” to 0.002” within parallel to the miter slot but I suspect neither of us could tell the difference if everything else is right. I have seen saws that “worked great” according to the operator but I could detect blade alignment issues with a tape measure.

-- Tom Hintz,

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2658 posts in 4008 days

#3 posted 09-07-2009 05:54 AM

Get your saw as close as you can each time you adjust and you will have less worries that it was out of tolerance. Strive for the best you can and then work out then rest…

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View niki's profile


426 posts in 4562 days

#4 posted 09-07-2009 11:38 AM

Something doesn’t looks good to me…

“The miter slot to the blade difference is .004”

“My miter slot to fence is .003 difference with the widest part to the rear of the saw”

In this condition, it looks to me that the rip fence is “closed” by .001” to the blade…that can lead to a kickback especially if you are not using riving or splitter.

I usually strive to get blade/miter slot of .001”~.002” and adjust the rip fence to “open” a hair (or parallel to the blade) that I do first with caliper and than “fine tune” by listening to the blade during actual cross-cut and rip-cut…

View 45acpbuilder's profile


49 posts in 3694 days

#5 posted 09-07-2009 11:57 AM

Deuce, I would endeavor to get the miter slot/blade MUCH closer to parallel. Tom and niki are right, in my opinion. I worked an hour (less, actuatlly) to get my TS to less than .001 blade-to-slot. This adjustment is the most importnat of all. You should also check the tilted-blade adjustment and shim the table to within .001 indication at 45 degrees. These two adjustments ensure accurate cuts and, most of all, are the foundation to all other adjustments. Get a dial indicator and check out for methods to do the measuring. I built a “slug” that fits in the miter slot and carries the dial indicator. You can also make a dial indicator holder that’s clamped to the miter gauge face, if your guage’s bar fits the slots correctly (zero play, smooth travel) Your fence should have .002-.003 tail-open adjustment -no more- after you get the blade-to-slot adjustment within .001. If you get a dial indicator and a good machinist’s square, you can also use them to get your miter gauge dead square. Trust me, you’ll be happier with all your cuts once you get the saw and miter gauge dead-square!

-- M1911BLDR

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