New Grizzly G0691 tablesaw -burning everything

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Forum topic by FrankS posted 09-05-2009 10:13 PM 11778 views 2 times favorited 80 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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24 posts in 4647 days

09-05-2009 10:13 PM

Topic tags/keywords: grizzly g0691 burning table saw

Just bought a Grizzly G0691 based in part on a couple of reviews I saw here.

Just put it together. It’s burning everything. Oak, maple, beech. It’s even burning PLYWOOD AND MELAMINE with a Frued Fusion 40 tooth! The Frued is the only full kerf blade I have. But the blade doesn’t matter. Even a 24 tooth thin kerf blade burns 3/4 oak a bit.

I tried a ripping piece of 8/4 oak and it was black, thought I was going to start a fire. The board was only a foot long. It it had been longer I would have stopped the cut. The arbor nut and washer were hot to the touch. I hope I didn’t ruin the blade.

I’ve adjusted the fence to within an inch of it’s life. Tried parallel – it burns. Tried opening the rear a couple of hundredths – it burned.

Tried it with and without the riving knife thinking alignment may be the problem. No difference. Tried in on two different 220 circuits. No difference. Tried tightening the belts, no difference.

All I’ve got a huge pile of burned wood.

One success. The 24 tooth thin kerf blade will cut plywood without burning.

The saw can’t be that bad. Any ideas?

80 replies so far

View patron's profile


13722 posts in 4803 days

#1 posted 09-05-2009 10:29 PM

run the saw without cutting anything ,
then see if things are still hot .
check if the blade is parallel with the miter slot ,
using the same tooth at front , then at back.
your table may be twisted slightly .
and the dumb question ,
are the teeth of your blade facing you on top ?

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View FrankS's profile


24 posts in 4647 days

#2 posted 09-05-2009 10:42 PM

I’m very close on the parallelism, no more than a hundredth off. Crosscuts with the miter gauge don’t exhibit the same burning. I ran it for several minutes before I ever put a blade on. The motor seems to be running fine, it’s not overheating or making any sort of unusual sound. There’s a bit more vibration than I thought there would be on a saw of this weight. The nickle falls over on start up but if you stand a nickle after start up and make a cut and turn it off the nickle stays standing. It’s on a mobile base so that could be aggravating the start up vibration. I haven’t checked arbor runout but there can’t be much. There’s no chip out or tear out on anything. Melamine and plywood edges are fine both ripping and crosscutting The only problem is the excessive burning.

View patron's profile


13722 posts in 4803 days

#3 posted 09-05-2009 11:06 PM

there was a guy here the other day ,it turned out his blade was bent ,
check from fixed point and rotate blade completely .
another guy had a slightly bent shaft .
is the saw new , or used ?
if new you may have to get with manufacturing .
if used same thing , but their teck could help .
grizzly is good that way .
maybe you need a better blade , or to have yours sharpened .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View knotscott's profile


8439 posts in 4837 days

#4 posted 09-06-2009 01:03 AM

If you’re not getting burning on crosscuts too, then it’s likely the fence alignment. The Fusion has a dual side grind and very low side clearance for a highly polished edge, which can more easily lead to burning if something’s off, but if a decent 24T blade is burning 3/4” material, it’s likely that something is causing some pinching. Raising the blade a little can reduce burning but it sounds to me like you’re issue is way beyond blade height. Check the whole alignment over again. Also be sure the fence is straight on the cut side, not just aligned. Many manufacturers suggest toeing the fence out by just a couple of thousandths to ensure that it’s not toeing in. The splitter needs to be aligned well with the blade if installed. Be sure the blade is clean, and that your feed rate isn’t too slow.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View a1Jim's profile


118321 posts in 5039 days

#5 posted 09-06-2009 01:07 AM

Turn Your blade Around :-))


View FrankS's profile


24 posts in 4647 days

#6 posted 09-06-2009 01:13 AM

Blade? It didn’t come with one. Is that important? :-)

View drbob's profile


31 posts in 4878 days

#7 posted 09-06-2009 02:50 PM

New saws need to be set up properly. It sound to be like that is your problem. I am including a link to a video that will walk you through the proper set up. It is also helpful for tuning up older saws.

-- drbob at

View Julian's profile


884 posts in 4987 days

#8 posted 09-06-2009 05:15 PM

Frank, when you said the parallelism was only .001 out, what were you referring to? You need the blade, miter slot, and fence to all be dead on parallel, or only .001 off. It your parallel to the slot then the miter gauge will work without burning, but it the fence is slightly off, then it will burn while ripping.

-- Julian, Homewood, IL

View FrankS's profile


24 posts in 4647 days

#9 posted 09-06-2009 07:01 PM

The miter slot is pretty close to dead on to the blade and the fence is very close as well. I’ve worked the fence all the way through parallel from out in one direction through parallel to out in the other direction. Making small changes to the setting screw and it burns every time.

The deal is this saw is burning as badly or worse than my old Craftsman job site that I got for $200 25 years ago using the same blades. And you can see the blade wobble on that old 1hp saw. How “tuned” do you think a saw like that can be possibly be? Yet it cuts as well as this brand new 3 horse cabinet saw, and I use the term “cabinet saw” loosely I admit. At least that’s what the literature called it. It doesn’t seem to have much more power than a 1 horse, 25 year old Craftsman. I’ve been trying to convince myself that its me but from the shudder on startup to the burning it’s looking more and more like the Chinamen were having a bad day.

View lew's profile


13534 posts in 5217 days

#10 posted 09-06-2009 08:23 PM

When aligning a saw’s rip fence, you usually check the fence at the “front” of the saw and the “back of the saw. Maybe the fence isn’t truly straight- bowed in the middle. If the fence bows towards the blade, it might cause this problem.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View FrankS's profile


24 posts in 4647 days

#11 posted 09-06-2009 09:06 PM

The fence is not flat. It’s at least a 64th out in the middle. from the ends. The arc of the very slight curve is such that I get the same distance reading at the front and back of the blade. That could explain the burning. It’s going to be a bear to shim.

Also I found the source of the startup shudder. The sector and the worm gear for blade elevation have at least an 1/8” of an inch of play. When you push the start button the motor it bounces. You can grab the motor and move it about an 1/8th, maybe more. If you wiggle it the arbor will actually drop. The worm gear will spin. You can see the hand wheel turn. This is not play at the motor mount. That is tightened down. It’s slop between worm and sector.

It seems weird to me. Is it normal to have that much slop? The same thing is evident on the tilt gears. The worm and sector are not even close to snug. Is that normal? My job site saw doesn’t have anywhere near that much movement, almost none at all. It’s like this saw is depending completely on the weight of the motor to keep the blade in place. Is that the way it is with cabinet saws?

Time to call tech support. I’ve heard they are very good a Grizzly. They’ll fix me up.

View knotscott's profile


8439 posts in 4837 days

#12 posted 09-06-2009 09:41 PM

Frank – Don’t the fence face just attach with screws? I’d think a little tape in a couple of strategic places would do the trick.

Dunno about the gearing and motor mount on that saw. Hopefully the Griz Kids will fix you up.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View reggiek's profile


2240 posts in 4732 days

#13 posted 09-06-2009 10:39 PM

Did you remove the shipping brace? Make sure you follow the direction of turn and put your blade on with the teeth facing the front of the saw…the side with the grizzly plaque and the height adjustment wheel.

You might want to check your voltage too – even if you tried different circuits, I would check both with an ampmeter…if the saw does not get enough amperage….it will not turn at the proper rpm’s….I had a friend that found out his 220 circuit to the garage had a short and was not delivering proper amperage. They lost a couple driers from this….and when he tried to use it for a saw he got the blade stuck in the wood he was cutting….and of course the blade was ruined from the heat.

My new G0691 did fine when I first tried it….it cut through some very hard Higuerilla without a hitch…whereas my bandsaw was having a heck of a time going through that stuff (of course the piece on the bandsaw was much thicker).

I have to agree with you on the Grizzly folks…every question/problem I have had has been handled by them quickly and completely….I hope they can keep that up as they grow in popularity (and get busier)...for now I rate them as excellent.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View djesde's profile


33 posts in 4684 days

#14 posted 09-06-2009 11:00 PM

Hey Franks
Change the height of the blade from 1/4” above the stock to 1 1/2 from top of the stock See if that works

View FrankS's profile


24 posts in 4647 days

#15 posted 09-06-2009 11:36 PM


Do you have slop between the worm and sector in the gears on your saw? Does the motor bounce when you turn it on?

Don’t have an amp meter but the voltage is fine. I’ll see if I can get hold of one. That would be an interesting test.

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