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Jim, I agree yours is better because it can be retrofit to any screw.
Well see how good mine looks, it may not since my top and bottom screw will be the same size, 2". I'm willing to take the chance.
 

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Mauricio, why wouldn't you glue the mortises? Are leaving the chance that you may want to drill out the pegs and disassemble in the future?
 

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A lot of things appeal to me about not using glue:

• It would be kind of a neat experiment to see how well it works
• Its cool, I could brag about not using glue
• Glue ups are stressful trying to get everything together before the glue sets, especially on a project of this size. It would be great to be able to eliminate this step altogether, also there is no squeeze out to clean up.
• Schwarz had a good point in his book about using no glue, if you move and wanted to take it apart you could, then glue it together permanently at the new place. This is probably a non-issue for me since my bench is not so big that it's not movable but it's a nice option to have.
• And finally, it's not needed, my bench is actually pretty stable now with no glue or pegs

That's what I'm thinking right now, I may change my mind…
 

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Forget the glue, if you don't need it. I did glue mine, but I can understand why you wouldn't want to glue yours. As far as the squeeze out and drippage, I taped paper to my legs, so the glue wouldn't drip on the legs themselves.
 

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I used glue but then again we dont need 4" thick tops either.

Seriously, I can not imagine taking mine apart. If I were to move the top slabs are easily managed and the base is no heavier or cumbersome than a couch.

I just put a thin film on the mortise and tenon and squeeze out was not an issue.

But I am a wussy.
 

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I wonder if glue helps reduce noise when chopping? Is there noise created where the top meets the legs? Would gluing it together make it sound like one big piece of wood?

I was chopping on mine last night (makeing the "wagon") and it made a lot more noise then I would have expected.
 

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On another note you guys have to check out the videos KOVA posted. The second link is of a guy hewing logs to make a crazy outdoor workbench, that functions as a shave horse, bench, and saw horse. The last link is pretty cool too, he makes a table out of big chestnut timbers.

http://lumberjocks.com/KOVA/blog/31437#comment-1326609
 

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A lot of things appeal to me about not using glue:

• It would be kind of a neat experiment to see how well it works

I could say the same about LSD but I already know

• Its cool, I could brag about not using glue

I bragged about not using a condom once. I will introduce you to my wife one day

• Glue ups are stressful trying to get everything together before the glue sets, especially on a project of this size. It would be great to be able to eliminate this step altogether, also there is no squeeze out to clean up.

As mentioned previously - no stress and no mess

• Schwarz had a good point in his book about using no glue, if you move and wanted to take it apart you could, then glue it together permanently at the new place. This is probably a non-issue for me since my bench is not so big that it's not movable but it's a nice option to have.

Like you said -it is a non-issue

• And finally, it's not needed, my bench is actually pretty stable now with no glue or pegs

yeah, and a six pack of beer is not needed to make me cool and interesting
 

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Guys - If any of you are really stressing about glueing up your mortise and tenon joints, you really don't need to. It is possible to glue the joints without getting squeeze out. This is how:

  1. Chamfer the end of the tenon slightly so that glue that is pushed to the bottom of the mortise when the tenon is fitted has somewhere to collect. It is also easier to get the tenon started with a chamfer.
  2. Chamfer the edge of the mortise so that any glue that the gets squeezed out of the joint has somewhere to collect and doesn't ooze out past the sholders.
  3. I also undercut my shoulder slightly with a sharp chisel leaving only about 1/32" all around the outside of the tenon. This ensures that the joint will close tightly.
  4. Only apply glue to the walls of the mortise, not the tenon.

Perfect M&T's every time - guaranteed.
 

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Scott, LOL.

Squeeze out is a very minor concern, especially since I wont be staining my bench. Its just gravy.
 

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Did someone say condom? I'm here now.
.
I really like the idea of no glue outside of laminating the top (if you figure out a way to do that without glue or all-thread, you will be galoot of the century).
.
And Andy is the man, but we know that already. Excellent advice.
 

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Al, I've seen a lot of antique benches that dont even use glue for the top, like you said they bolt two 6"ish slabs together and add a tool tray to the back. As the top shrinks (if its green) you just keep tightening the bolts.
 

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Heck, that's pretty cool. Do the bolts go through the legs?
Actually not a bad thought.
 

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I have seen a lot of these benches in person. They seem to hold up incredibly well. If the top cracked you could tighten the bolt and now one has to know.

Kind of turns the wood movement issue on it's head.

Just be careful drilling your dog holes.
 

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True Ryan, and the bolts kind of look cool I think, maybe for the next bench. ;-)

Question for you and the rest of the esteemed panel. I have the Gramarcy holdfast, in order for them to work I first had to clean off the oil they come coated with then I had to scuff them up with sandpaper. Now they work great. However, now I have some rust on one of them, how do I prevent rust if they don't work well with oil on them? Are they ok with just a light wipe down?

Also, what about finish on the holdfast/dog holes? Should that be avoided? Will it make the holes slick and prevent the holdfasts from working?
 
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