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Wood recommendations for picture frame to be sprayed satin black?

872 Views 17 Replies 12 Participants Last post by ibewjon, 2 mo ago

nickbatz

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

After seeing the prices at a frame shop, I'm making a float frame for the customer of one of my pictures.

It's going to be spray painted satin black. Is there a reason not to use the maple I already have? The cost of the wood doesn't matter for such a small amount.

This is probably something I'll be doing a fair amount, so I'd like to streamline the process as much as possible.

TIA

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nickbatz

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Thanks Phil, at this point I'm a pretty experienced woodworker and I have all the machines and tools. This is an extremely simple project compared to the very complicated furniture I'm used to making, especially with pocket hole joints (I'm not proud

).

And I certainly didn't mean to make it sound like I begrudge the frame shop charging what they need to, I'm just reeling at the amount of money!

Okay, I'll be crass: $400 for a very simple black wood float frame with no glass, no exotic wood, and it's only about 18" x 24". Subtract $40 for their mounting the picture on Gatorboard (which is high-quality foam-core backing board), but this will take me a couple of hours - and the next one less, because I'll have my router table all set up.

My question could also have been put in the Finishing section of this site. The last project I spray-painted was made out of red oak, and it's not first kind of wood I'd choose for painting (although I actually have some I could use for this if I wanted to).

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nickbatz

Discussion Starter · #10 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Thanks everyone.

Yeah, I was thinking about poplar for the next one, but since I have the maple, why not just use it - based on what people have written here about it taking the paint. What I don't want is the grain showing through the way it does with red oak.

And of course it needs a primer, although the spray paint I've used in the past (will remember which one it was at the hardware store, I think Krylon rather than Rustoleium, but could be the other way around) has it built in and doesn't need it.

Maybe.

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nickbatz

Discussion Starter · #11 · 3 mo ago

woodworksbyjohn said:
If you're looking for a really cool black finish for picture frames check out Roasted Oak! Here's a link to my blog about it and the process I use -- sorry, no pocket joinery! Roasted Oak Floater Frame

Very nice. Not the right look for this particular picture, but I like your design.

I'm all for cool joints when they look good (I use dovetails in places they show, example below), but in this application a pocket hole joint underneath the frame is going to work as well as anything else and save time. No clamps, no fuss, easy life.

Rectangle Wood Natural material Floor Flooring

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nickbatz

Discussion Starter · #12 · 3 mo ago

LesB said:
If you have maple use it. If you are going to make more than you might want to switch to a less expensive wood like poplar or alder. Before painting I would first seal the wood with a coat or two of de-waxed shellac like Zinssers seal coat. It dries fast and with a light sanding after is drys (about 30+ minutes) to take care of any raised wood fibers or dust in the finish. Then spray with the paint of choice.

Ah, I missed the part about sealing it with shellac. Good idea. Thanks.