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This is what my Rosewood piece looks like after I removed the non-drying tacky Arm-R-Seal Poly with steel wool.



This is carried over from my Poly won't dry over Rosewood thread. It stopped getting views, so I started this thread. As a reminder, I placed 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil on this, and allowed it to dry a couple of weeks. then placed Arm-R-Seal Poly over the top, and six weeks later it still is tacky in places … So I tried to remove it with steel wool last night, and this is now how it looks.

Question is, if i now place a coat of Arm-R-Seal back over this, is it going to look right, and will it dry ? The haze areas make me wonder if this can be saved without stripping it completely.
 

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As a side note, if you have any of that rosewood left unfinished, you might want to try putting some poly on it without using the Danish oil first. You might find that you didn't really gain much in appearance by putting the opil on first.
 

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ive never worked with rosewood before, but know about it and its finishing difficulties from observing it on a guitar of mine. it seems to work much better with penetrating oil than film forming finish. it seems hard enough and oily enough to be pretty durable on its own.

so my question is actually the reverse of charlie's: what do you gain by putting poly over it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Aaron …. It looks very dull to me without a top coat. And I am not experienced enough with finishing to try much else at this point.

But a better reason, is because this piece is part of a set, in which some other pieces came out perfectly with the poly, and another couple of the pieces would NOT dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Aaron …. It looks very dull to me without a top coat. And I am not experienced enough with finishing to try much else at this point.

But a better reason, is because this piece is part of a set, in which some other pieces came out perfectly with the poly, and another couple of the pieces would NOT dry.
 

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there's no mystery to it really, since those tacky spots follow grain patterns - it's just different areas of the wood taking it in differently. just how it is sometimes, even when its from the same board!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have mineral spirits and acetone, but I do not have naptha. I'm not sure how to tell if the Watco is dry. It felt dry after two weeks, before I added the poly the first go around.
 

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Naphtha is used in lighters and camp stoves, for example, so if you have an old Coleman stove and the fuel for it, you have some naphtha. Alternatively, you could use lacquer thinner. It will cut lesser density petroleum distillates as well. Or acetone. I've never had this problem with rosewood, but then, I've never used oil to finish a project made with rosewood. I personally would not put poly on until I was sure the oil was off, or completely cured. Depending on how far it penetrated, you may have to wait for it to completely polymerize before putting the poly on. Bummer.
 

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Oil finishes can take a long time to cure that's the reason I prefer other options . It might accelerate the watcos drying if you repeat the cleaning with any of the solvents Atomjack suggested.
 

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Figg,

I would hate to hoch your choiniks, but what you have is a mess. The only way to clean it up, truly, is to sand, strip, scrape, swear back to bare wood, and start over. For a hand-rubbed oil piece,l do just that. After reaching naked wood, sand up through the grades. DON"T SKIP ANY. The higher you go, the better it will shine. A well sanded piece (thru 2000 at least) will shine like a '58 Caddy in aq Concours show. If you want better, try shooting laquer over it. Do a test piece, seal half with d-waxed shellac,thenj laquer, half with laquer. Bet it won't make any difference. At this point, what do you have to loose?

Steve
 

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Dear figg - I had the same problem finishing some rosewood boxes that I made about 34 years ago. I used oil based Varathane on them and the finish would not dry. At that time the university where I went to be an industrial arts teacher had some pretty good minds teaching there, so I asked one of them and he told me that there is too much oil in rosewoods and to try lacquer. Yahoo! never had a problem since. I hope this info helps. bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks Bob …. I just can't believe some of the pieces had NO problem whatsoever with the oil and poly. If I can just get this one project repaired, I will NEVER oil the rosewood family of woods again !
 
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