I am attempting to stain a pine crib white. (pine to preserve the bites and bangs of a special infant) So I need a safe white stain and protective coating product. I tried white wash pickling from minwax on a test piece and it's simply not white enough, even after 4 coats.
I'll tell the complete story of the crib once I'm finished with the project and post it.
"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work"- Thomas Edison
CharlieM1958: I have thought it out overnight, and am going to do a better sample for the 'inspector" (aka Mrs T). I provided your suggestion and a sample (too white) She's usually not to hard to please, I think I may have given her a poor sample to begin with; offal from a curve cut.
I am a fan of 'old masters' stain. it has oil in it so it will need 12-24 hours dry time, but has a lot more pigment in it than Minwax. When you stir the can it is a really heavy sludgey stuff.
But Also, when I work with oak - I bleach it first. So that my "base color" is whiter. I use the KleenStrip 2 part wood bleach, leave it for 12 hours or so then neutralize it with vinegar. It may be that the bleach will remove the 'yellow' graining to leave you a "Whiter" base to work from.
Pine does not take stain well. Those darker parts simply do not hold the stain. What has worked for me is tinted water-borne varnish over a wash coat of shellac.
You can apply two coats of tinted varnish, then carry on with clear if you want more coats.
Thanks for the tips gang. BTW Old Masters is not allowed in SoCal due to VOCs (paint store manager).
I make a more accurate sample with 4 coats of white wash, then did a couple coats of finish. I added the first coat right after the last stain to draw up some of the stain into the finish, then used clear following. That worked great to the delight of my wife.
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