Journals Projects Workshops Reviews

Where should I install the electrical outlet for my table saw?

11410 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Gentile, May 15, 2014

intelligen

Discussion Starter · May 14, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

Hey everyone,

I have the electricians at my house right now wiring the garage. I was planning to have them drop the 220v for my table saw from the middle of the ceiling since that's where the saw will be located. Just now I realized it could be tricky though getting exactly the right location because otherwise the power cable will interfere with outfeed material. Does it make more sense to drop the cable from the ceiling further to the left or right side of the saw? Or should I just have them put the outlet on the wall, and get some sort of guard to cover the cord so it doesn't get run over when I move my lumber cart around?

As you can see in this sketchup shot, the table saw is pretty much in the exact middle of the room:

See less See more

Save

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

wapakfred

· #2 · May 14, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

I've had mine on a ceiling drop for the last 24 years in 2 different shops. Yeah, a floor receptacle would be better, but if the concrete is already there….... Anyway, put it just to the right to come down just at the end of the right side extension (or close). If you happen to add DC later, that's probably will it will be as well. The only thing this has interfered with (for me) over the years was when I had my router table in the right extension. I moved to a dedicated RT which solved that. I'd have a twist lock receptacle put in the ceiling to hold the plug.

Save

timbit2006

· #3 · May 14, 2014

I've never really needed to use the right side of a tablesaw past the fence rails for anything. You could get the cable a bit longer and put a bracket on the ceiling to get the exact positioning.

Save

TheFridge

· #4 · May 14, 2014

What they said. Always use a twist lock receptacle when plugging something into the ceiling, and a Kellums grip hanger if possible to take the strain off the cord and receptacle. Plus you can put the kellumsright where you want it to drop. Or a bracket to hang the wire from. Whatever floats your boat.

Save

intelligen

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 14, 2014

Thanks for the suggestions!

Just to clarify a little bit (since I don't know much about this stuff), you guys are saying to have the electricians put in a normal twist lock receptacle instead of having the wire drop directly from the ceiling, then I should add an extension cord and bracket/Kellems hanger that I can then plug the table saw into? Or do I get a really long cord for the tablesaw, plug that into the ceiling outlet along with the strain relief, and replace the cord that came with the tablesaw?

Save

a1Jim

· #6 · May 14, 2014

If you have a wooden floor have them put it there.

Save

wapakfred

· #7 · May 14, 2014

I wouldn't have them put in a drop, just the receptacle. Add the extension you need….that way if the location is a little off from where it's needed, the extension cord gets you to the saw. Don't fool with the saw cord, just as easy to make the extension you need, be aware the extension will probably be a little heavier cord than the saw. It's probably 14-3, I'd suggest 12-3 for the extension. Also, in the extension you only need a twist lock plug for the ceiling, then a standard receptacle for the saw.

Save

intelligen

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 14, 2014

Unfortunately no wooden floor…but that would have been great!

Fred, thanks for the clarification. That sounds like a good plan; then I can rearrange later if this layout doesn't work out.

Save

Pdub

· #9 · May 14, 2014

I used a flat plate over a recepticle that was close to the floor. The plate had a hole for a conduit connector. I dropped the conduit to the floor and used a 90 degree elbow to continue my conduit to the table saw and placed a recepticle box on the floor. I wired my shop so I could use a single piece of wire without having to splice it. The floor was already poured so I couldn't run it through the floor. The conduit is on the floor but I placed my planer over part of it and it's not real tall to trip over. It works for me and I got it right to my saw.

Save

a1Jim

· #10 · May 14, 2014

Well Rob if you would really like it in the floor you can cut a groove in the floor with a concrete saw a walk behind unit usually rents for $65 a day, an you need only cut it deep enough for some rigid conduit can fit in it and then epoxy over it. It sounds hard to do but it's not.

Save

intelligen

Discussion Starter · #11 · May 15, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

Hey guys, thanks for the additional suggestions.

I ended up having the electricians put a locking outlet in the ceiling. They're going to use some of the leftover wire to make me an 18' extension cord with strain relief hook and a locking plug on one end, and a female plug that matches my table saw on the other end. With that I should be able to move the table saw pretty much anywhere in my little 1-car garage. Plus, if I ever move, I can just unplug the cord from the ceiling and the next owner can park a car in there.

Save

Gentile

· #12 · May 15, 2014

I run my Unisaw from the wall. The cord on the machine is too short to reach. I went to Home Depot and made up a 20' extension cord. I use the cord for my other 220v machines. It works out ok. I usually don't have more than one machine running at the same time. When finished, I roll the cord up…

Save

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month