what to do
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Yup, glue block would work great... threaded one even better. Or you could put it between centers, with the grooved part facing the headstock, and turn a tenon on the bottom, then flip it around and finish. Or fill the groove with epoxy and/or other stuff and treat it like any other solid bowl blank. Lots of possibilities.
Cheers,
Brad
Cheers,
Brad
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3,584 Posts
the blank has a recessed tenon I should post a profile pic. One thing I am concerned about is the straight side, there will be little curve to the sides and a sharp transition from side to bottom, anything I can do about that. any idea what the wood is thanks Mike
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the blank has a recessed tenon I should post a profile pic. One thing I am concerned about is the straight side, there will be little curve to the sides and a sharp transition from side to bottom, anything I can do about that. any idea what the
the blank is close to 10" diameter and about 4" deep, the crack is not a problem the blank is dry I know nothing about the blank
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1,731 Posts
Looks like you have it chucked up to the headstock of the lathe per the picture. Do you know why the groove was turned that deep... Maybe the person that cut the deep groove, did this because of the way the crack looked like on the outside of the blank. And wanted to see how deep the crack was before hollowing. Maybe he stopped working with this bowl blank because he cut too close to the wall (making the wall too thin) and thought he screwed up and was done with the bowl blank. And decided he/she didn't want to fill the cracks with epoxy.
If the wall is too thin where the bottom depth of the inside cut groove is. You could build up the bottom of the inside groove epoxy at the bottom of the groove so the outer side could be shaped to your liking. Would give a nice accent to the inside of the bowl. I don't think that a square outer corner is bad. It's more of a personal choice. looks like you have it under control.
I would have normally hollowed the inside as a whole, other than where I have a live center to give support to the blank and also shape the lip of the bowl during this process. And do as much of the outside and bottom as you can, before sliding the tailstock away to finish the center where the live center was against the bowl. Then remove the bowl to mount it in a cole jaws to finish the bottom.
Looks like it would be a nice looking candy dish when done.
If the wall is too thin where the bottom depth of the inside cut groove is. You could build up the bottom of the inside groove epoxy at the bottom of the groove so the outer side could be shaped to your liking. Would give a nice accent to the inside of the bowl. I don't think that a square outer corner is bad. It's more of a personal choice. looks like you have it under control.
I would have normally hollowed the inside as a whole, other than where I have a live center to give support to the blank and also shape the lip of the bowl during this process. And do as much of the outside and bottom as you can, before sliding the tailstock away to finish the center where the live center was against the bowl. Then remove the bowl to mount it in a cole jaws to finish the bottom.
Looks like it would be a nice looking candy dish when done.
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Well, you already have it chucked and it looks like you have plenty of meat on the sides... what exactly do you perceive as the problem. Seems like it's half way there to being a pretty nice bowl, and a good chunk of the hollowing has already been done for you 
Edit: The crack does not look like much of a concern, as it's shallow and the one shown is originating from the pith which is very common. Am I missing one somewhere? The epoxy should work fine, and the crack in the middle will be removed when you turn the inside of the bowl.
Cheers,
Brad
Edit: The crack does not look like much of a concern, as it's shallow and the one shown is originating from the pith which is very common. Am I missing one somewhere? The epoxy should work fine, and the crack in the middle will be removed when you turn the inside of the bowl.
Cheers,
Brad
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61 Posts
Myself I would be very concerned that it could fly apart given the current condition. Even if you could fill the crevice with epoxy you will open more areas of the crack as you remove material. I would not take a chance with this your safety is worth way more.
calabrese55
calabrese55
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yea there is enough room for dowels
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I like to finish out the bottom of the bowl first so you might turn it around on the chuck to do that. While it is in it's current position cut a new tenon on the face that you chuck can grip. Then turn ot around and finish the bottom. Then return it to the position in the picture and proceed to hollow out the bowl. My concern with the crack is that it want all the way across but now I see it is not that deep and all gut the outer edge will be removed to hollow the bowl. So you can continue to treat it with medium or thick CA glue to stabilize it. The wood looks quite dense and I suspect it is going to dull your tools quickly so keep them sharp to avoid tear out of the end grain.
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1,849 Posts
Hey Mikie ole boy, that looks like a pretty darn nice piece of Mesquite. You could have possibly gotten it when I visited. Crack is not an issue, but you could put the dowels in for effect.
Turn a bowl. Just hog out the center and when you clean up that groove, you'll have a better handle on what you're gonna do.
Good luck. ................ Jerry (in Tucson)
Turn a bowl. Just hog out the center and when you clean up that groove, you'll have a better handle on what you're gonna do.
Good luck. ................ Jerry (in Tucson)
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