LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

What do I do now?

2830 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Dusty56
3
In searching for new ideas for cutting boards, I saw Larry's blog for glue up of a woven board
http://lumberjocks.com/degoose/blog/8789
and Tony's blog for making a woven board
http://lumberjocks.com/Tikka/blog/1878
I thought I was all set to tackle this project. I used sapele edged with walnut and hard maple. Aside form the obvious mistakes in this board- three blocks with grain in the wrong direction and one block that somehow ended up with the end grain topside up…

Photobucket

I have met my peace with knowing this is not fixable at this point. However, there is one block that ended up just a bit smaller than the rest on one edge, the gap is just shy of 1/16" and is through the board.

Photobucket

Photobucket

So now what do I do to salvage this mess? Do I shim a piece in the gap? Epoxy the gap? I don't know the best answer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Eerrrggghhh !!

Lisa
See less See more
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
I'd probably just shim it, but you could drill and chisel the whole piece out and replace it. I'd actually use two tapered pieces - one from each side - so you get a tight fit back and front.
Hey Lisa
The best patch for wood is wood I would cut a sliver of the wood your patching and put a small amount on CA
glue in the gap and then pound the sliver of wood in as far as you can and then trim with a sharp chisels . you may need to do the back side also. If you use the same wood with the grain in the same orientation The gap will disappear.

I guess was posting the same time Jay was
i would probably slice a taper ( rip at 3deg. or more on tablesaw ) ,
and move it along the space until your grain is close ,
and cut it there .
clean slot , glue ,and hammer wedge to fit ,
them trim top to flush .
flip board , and repeat .
do both sides together , so glue does'nt run through and harden .
drive them snug , not to split the joint .
when i do this , i just run it into saw more than enough to get what i need ,
and stop saw , then break of sliver ,
or cut it from outside edge , so it does'nt trap in saw .
Ditto.. btw nice looking first attempt.
Thanks guys !! The shim is the winner.
I hope it's not too noticeable.
I'll post the update.

Lisa
still an awesome looking piece. I lived in NM for many years and bought as many Navajo rugs and Pueblo sand painting as I could and noticed "errors or mistakes" in all the pieces. I once had the opportunity to ask one of the artists why the mistakes, since they were obviously easy to avoid and I was told that this is how you let the evil spirits out which will make the item better to have in your home! I would say that all of my work has no evil spirits… ;o)
Jack,
Hope you don't mind, but I think I'm going to steal that quote!
I think my workshop must be full of evil spirits if that's where they all escape!
Thanks to all for the encouragement and advice.

Lisa
be carefull with that one ,
my ex uses it every time she makes a mistake !
So are you shimming the Maple or the Walnut ?
It appears to me that the Walnut is suffering from planer or jointer snipe in your picture.
You can easily see how much thicker the Walnut strip is on the top left side of your photo versus the right side over the block. The block looks fine given the grain orientation assuming that you ripped all of the blocks with the grain and then cut them to size across the grain.
Dusty,
If I understand correctly your looking at the top strip of walnut? right side versus left? The block looked okay during glue up because there was squeeze out. After unclamping and running it through the drum sander it became noticeable. I had to clean out the glue with a dental pick tool. It may have compressed or removed some of the walnut strip causing it to look uneven. I am hoping that because the picture is so enlarged that it won't be visible from a regular view.
I am shimming the maple, the walnut was planed to 1/8". I rarely have a problem with snipe, I am always checking with a caliper to make sure this is not happening. Dewalt DW735.
My table saw, however, is a different story. It basically sucks, it needs fine tuning, but because it is a low end contractor saw it doesn't have "fine tuning" that works worth a sh**. The maple block may have cut slightly thinner, and when I planed it maybe it looked like it had surfaced but was actually below level. That's the only thing I can come up with. I will pencil the surfaces being planed from now on.
Most of the evilness that occurs in the shop is caused by the table saw. New one maybe in September ;)
Thanks for the input,

Lisa
See less See more
lisa ,
i have had that problem with t.s.'s also ,
so when i need REAL dimensions ,
i overcut ( 3/32 or 1/8 ) ,
and run both edges thru the planer .
this takes out any saw marks ,
and wobbles ,
and makes all the boards the same width .
you learn to flip real fast , so you don't pass the same edge twice .
or mark your edges , so you know what's up .
Thanks David,
I always overcut to compensate for table saw. I recently started marking edges with an arrow for topside. I think somewhere in the process I was interrupted by some one or one of the cats and forgot where I left off.
Yeah , that's it, it was the cat…Hehe

Lisa
well that was my other thought regarding the look of the Walnut . I was wondering if you had compressed the fibers as you said you might have. That gap must have been nearly invisible prior to the poking and prodding : )

Darn cats …you can never really trust them ! LOL
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top