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Beeswax is safe. You can get blocks of it from craft stores (cheaper than the hardware store).

Carefully, in a double boiler and preferably using an electric heater instead of open flame, melt some beeswax and add the mineral oil until you get something sort of like thin maple syrup.

Use that mixture to coat the boards. The beeswax can take a few days to harden so be patient. Rub on thin layers, let it soak in and harden, buff and maybe add a 2nd or third layer as needed.
 

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I'm going to be trying Walnut Oil, It cures. I found a Bee's wax and Orange Oil combo at a HD and had great results on a end grain board I recently did. I think it was 7.49 for the bottle and was ready to apply. I'll check on a exact name for later. Seems like the bottle will last a while also. Not sure if paste wax is safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you my wood worker friends, I had bought some butcher block oil and it was spendy also it was refined linseed oil and turp, linseed will not dry and gets sticky also is subject to mold and I am thinking the turp helps it dry??
 

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I don't know if I believe it but Bob Flexner claims that once polyurethene drys it is not a problem to eat off or consume. He claims there is no evidence that speaks the opposite.
 

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I build custom end-grain (butcher block) cutting boards and use "wiping varnish" as a preliminary sealer/finish. There is nothing in any of the polyurethane varnish MSDS information that countermands Bob's explanation of fully cured polyurethane. In fact, if you look at the ingredients of Salad Bowl Finish, it's actually "wiping varnish" just renamed. I use Spar Varnish thinned 50% or less, wipe it on and immediately wipe it off. It seals the grain so the boards don't "drink" oil so much. The minearal oil/beeswax is also a great finish for cutting boards. Just make sure it's Food Grade mineral oil!!! And don't use Walnut or other nut-based finishes, people really do get allergic reactions from them. I never use nut woods or finishes in my boards.
 
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