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Warped counter top
I'm off to a bad start with my project countertop. I started out by ordering 2 slabs of Kauri from Ancientwood, LTD., 1.5 inch x 26 inch x 7 foot. About a month and half in, I inquired about my order, as thry said it would ship the following week making my order a month late already. The reason for the delay, the piece they were going to ship had a two inch warp and they were trying to straighten it by redrying. About 3 weeks later, I made another call, the drying process split the wood, they gave me a description of the split to see if it was still usable, I needed the full width for a counter top so it wasn't. He said they would have to get new pieces resawn, dried, and sanded. 3 months in, I get call from them, a tracking number. The crate contained two warped and cracked slabs that fit the description of the lumber that I wasn't suppose to get.
After 3 months I'm almost ready to call it a loss, so my question is, what is the best way, if any, to straighten and stabilize this. The warp is about an inch and half at the center, the wood has a pretty good spring, 220 lbs will straighten it, but I doubt the cabinets can handle the stress if I simply screw it down. The counter is currently unfinished and is convex on the sanded side. My plan is to seal the top with tung oil, add some moisture to the underside and wait. If all goes well, bolt a 1/4 inch beam on the underside and seal the bottom side.
After 3 months I'm almost ready to call it a loss, so my question is, what is the best way, if any, to straighten and stabilize this. The warp is about an inch and half at the center, the wood has a pretty good spring, 220 lbs will straighten it, but I doubt the cabinets can handle the stress if I simply screw it down. The counter is currently unfinished and is convex on the sanded side. My plan is to seal the top with tung oil, add some moisture to the underside and wait. If all goes well, bolt a 1/4 inch beam on the underside and seal the bottom side.
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No MC specified on the receipt, according to thier website its 6%
Hey Dan
I think I would wet(hot water works best) both sides clamp and shim so you over correct the warp. In this kind of operation you need to make sure that drying is equal on both sides. It's won't work if you clamp one side flat so it can't release it's moisture at equal rate to the opposite side. There is no guarantee with this or any process I know of for trying to remove bows in wood.
I think I would wet(hot water works best) both sides clamp and shim so you over correct the warp. In this kind of operation you need to make sure that drying is equal on both sides. It's won't work if you clamp one side flat so it can't release it's moisture at equal rate to the opposite side. There is no guarantee with this or any process I know of for trying to remove bows in wood.
I guess my question is why did you accept delivery, especially after you had all of these issues with delays and known issues? Did they not give you anything in writing or via email that stated they were sending you good product or what their standard max warp was before shipment?
Several reasons, I called them about three weeks ago prior to delivery and it was agreed that they were working on new pieces. He told me straight out that I wouldn't be happy with the original ones. I trusted him. Secondly, after three months my bar needs a counter top. Sadly, the main reason is that it was delivered right before work and it was well crated. Don't get me wrong, the surface is beautiful and would like to make this work even though the situation can be better.
can you score the underside like kerf cuts for a radius piece ?
the more you do , with the grain the more it will flatten ,
stop cut it as you get to the edge , so its not visible .
how deep you cut will also determine the amount of flex ,
along with how many kerfs you do .
the more you do , with the grain the more it will flatten ,
stop cut it as you get to the edge , so its not visible .
how deep you cut will also determine the amount of flex ,
along with how many kerfs you do .
Dave, Sounds promising. Any suggestions on a starting point, how deep and how far apart?
maybe not more than 1/2 the thickness ,
just keep halving the counter ,
until it feels good to you .
one half , one half of that and so on .
7 cuts maybe equaly spaced.
start wit 3 and see how it feels ,
do more as needed .
just keep halving the counter ,
until it feels good to you .
one half , one half of that and so on .
7 cuts maybe equaly spaced.
start wit 3 and see how it feels ,
do more as needed .
well i had never heard of this timber before, so i had to check it out…i feel bad that you paid an awfully amount of money for this wood to get warped lumber….just saw this company you bought from has a slab of this wood that is 40 feet long …at 100,000…..i looks to be about 6 feet wide…..well i think daves suggestion is a good one….good luck…post the outcome…oh and your cabinets are really nice…good job..
Thanks, the cabinets are made from recycled oak with a gunstock stain. The second cabinet in, slightly lowered, is actually fake and hides a small dishwasher. I'll take some pictures once I get the counter squared away.
Sorry about the slab. Good luck in getting it down.
It's not secured down yet but the kerf cuts seemed to have worked. I had to do 15 cuts. Thanks Dave and everyone else.
Thats a great looking finish. The top grain looks great.
glad it worked out ,
would hate to see you have to make pens out of it !
nice finish .
would hate to see you have to make pens out of it !
nice finish .
That was a great idea Dave I will have to remember that. And that top looks just great.
Dan, that sucks! I have used this wood before and it is BEAUTIFUL. I had a similar experience with this company. I had ordered some 8/4 whitebait for a picture frame and I was pissed that it came to me with a 1/2" curl. To say the least, It came about 2 weeks late as well. Hoe=wever, I did call and talked to President Bob and he paid for the shipping to get it back to them and send me new lumber. I wish I had a pic of the frame to share, but I never took one. On a good note, the finish on your slab looks outstanding. What Kind did you use and did you buy the slab when ancient wood had that 25% discount sale? I bought a bit myself (no project in mind yet) For those of you who want to see some amazing lumber and a great story go to www.ancientwood.com **
That is a dilemma, I wouldn't mind getting more but would rather get it from someone else. I talked to Bob many times and still ended up with the above mentioned. Hopefully the excess from the second slab will be enough for my small projects, it's a sister piece so it has the same warp and crack. The finish is a Minwax stain (gunstock 231) and Waterlox Original (medium sheen)
How about some relief kerf cuts in the underside where it will not be visible. It would help to take some of the pressure off.
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