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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

It's a good idea to put a deck there, otherwise that door becomes a bit of a health hazard. ;-)

Your "outdoor" projects are always interesting. They require a certain amount of engineering that escapes me. I'm always intimidated by structural projects.

Nice work with the siding. It looks like the ledger has been there all along.
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

I agree with Russel. Sure looks good. Waiting for the next step(s)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

Tks Russel.

Gonna start more work this weekend Gary.

I have heard these types of doors nicknamed as "mother-in-law" doors. Im not sure if it prevents them from entering or if you hope they will use it when leaving. :)
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

I normally wouldn't post this but having first had experience gives me somewhat of an opinion.

Please don't place the ladder at such an "open" angle unless you have someone blocking the feet. Although the ladder seems stable, it can slide out from under you.

There is this humorous story about a ladder, some Christmas decorations and an afternoon in the Emergency Room. Fortunately for me, my youth and cat like reflexes allow me to use my face to break my fall into the shrubs that surround the house.
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

I completely agree with lew. The angle of that ladder is quite dangerous. The force downward your body creates grows geometrically as you move up the ladder. To establish a safe ladder angle a good rule of thumb is to hold the ladder vertical close to your body. Grab the rung that is nearest to the height of your shoulder. Now extend your arms out while hanging on to the ladder. The ladder ends up at the angle of the hypotenuse of a triangle of your arms and the distance from your shoulder to your feet. This angle should be safe.
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

Looks like a fun project. I would keep that Door locked in the mean tiime. WOW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

Without the stand off arms I would have not even considered the angle. Lew . . . You cant see from the picks, but the feet of the ladder are into the edge of the flowerbed into the ground . . . effectively blocking the feet like you suggested. I did not have many options on how to place the ladder . . . so I made the option I did have as safe as possible.

Tks for the tip jlssmith5963.
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

Zuki please read padre thread about ladders i think you will change your working pratice of working up a ladder without anyone footing the thing …....

but looking good and i like the mother-in-law gag if only it were true with mine lol…...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

I just read his posting Pommy . . . ouch. I originally missed it . . . tks for letting me know.

I will be going back up this weekend, however I will be adding additional safety measures.
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

hey Zuki
Looks Like a good start. You could save yourself a lot of time and money if you just put some hooks with parachutes on the in side the door. LOL
 

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Ledger

During the summer months most of my woodworking are projects for outside . . . like my recent greenhouse project. This project is a deck on the rear of our house. You can see from the pic it is up pretty high (11ft of the ground) and it is over the stairwell going into the basement (another 8ft).



The first step is to remove the siding. A definite must is a siding removal tool. Cost $6 and allows you to unhook the siding for removal.



Here I have all the siding removed and you can see the Tyvec underneath.



Next I had to attach the 2×10x12 to the wall. I attached two strap to it and while I slid it up the ladder, DW pulled on the straps. She held it in place while I popped in a couple of long screws to temporarily hold it in place. I found the studs and then attached the ledger with countersunk 3 1\2 inch 5\8 galvanized lag bolts with washers.



I then attached the aluminum flashing over the board. I had this bent by a siding contractor who gave me a couple of tips on its installation. I then installed the J-trim around the flashing.





Then came the reinstalling of the siding. I measured and marked . . . measured again . . . measured one more time and checked my mark on the siding. I only got once chance at cutting the siding as the stuff I removed is a little lighter in colour than new stuff.





All my measurement worked out, the siding went back in place and here is the finishaed stage one.

what CAN'T the two of you do?? !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Framing

Saturday I was off to Chester Dawe\Rona for some lumber for the deck. I had to pick through a whole bunch to find some decent stuff. I later remembered that they sell #2 lumber for #1 prices. I normally go to HD, but I needed long stuff and HD did not carry it.





My first task was to make a base plate for the 4×4s to rest on. After 5 years the bolts sticking out of the concrete were still good. I figured the tread would be rusted.



Here is the base laid in place. I have the holed elongated to give me a little room the slide it in and out to ensure the 4×4's are plumb.



I framed out the deck and added the joist hangers. When I get the deck in place I will put in the joists.



Just a close up of how I attached the hangers. They were for 2×10's so I had to trim the length a little.



Next I have to add the 4×4's to the base and the frame, do a bunch of bracing and tip the deck in place.
 

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Framing

Saturday I was off to Chester Dawe\Rona for some lumber for the deck. I had to pick through a whole bunch to find some decent stuff. I later remembered that they sell #2 lumber for #1 prices. I normally go to HD, but I needed long stuff and HD did not carry it.





My first task was to make a base plate for the 4×4s to rest on. After 5 years the bolts sticking out of the concrete were still good. I figured the tread would be rusted.



Here is the base laid in place. I have the holed elongated to give me a little room the slide it in and out to ensure the 4×4's are plumb.



I framed out the deck and added the joist hangers. When I get the deck in place I will put in the joists.



Just a close up of how I attached the hangers. They were for 2×10's so I had to trim the length a little.



Next I have to add the 4×4's to the base and the frame, do a bunch of bracing and tip the deck in place.
Nice progress. I'll be watching for you to get it attached to the house.
 

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Framing

Saturday I was off to Chester Dawe\Rona for some lumber for the deck. I had to pick through a whole bunch to find some decent stuff. I later remembered that they sell #2 lumber for #1 prices. I normally go to HD, but I needed long stuff and HD did not carry it.





My first task was to make a base plate for the 4×4s to rest on. After 5 years the bolts sticking out of the concrete were still good. I figured the tread would be rusted.



Here is the base laid in place. I have the holed elongated to give me a little room the slide it in and out to ensure the 4×4's are plumb.



I framed out the deck and added the joist hangers. When I get the deck in place I will put in the joists.



Just a close up of how I attached the hangers. They were for 2×10's so I had to trim the length a little.



Next I have to add the 4×4's to the base and the frame, do a bunch of bracing and tip the deck in place.
Looking good so far Zuki…....keep posting those progess pic's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
More Framing

Its Canada Day. A day off from the ole grind . . . so I went back at the deck. I started by adding two more stringers. You will see why in a little while.



I'm not sure if everyone is like this, but when I'm working on an outside or rough construction work I like using scraps of wood as a notepad for jotting down measurements. This particular piece was left over from some xmas tree ornaments I made last fall.



Here is the frame all braced. Before bracing I checked it for square, expecting it to be out of square and thus needing a couple of knocks to make it right. However it was perfectly square . . . 78" from corner to corner.



Oh . . . I had to do a little caulking up on the ladder. The grass was a little damp. Perfect test for my anti-kick device. Not sure if it worked or not as the ladder did not move. :)



Now its taking shape. I ran out of lumber for bracing so I will have to pick some up tomorrow. Once this is braced sufficiently I will lift the deck end, using a jack and more braces . . . pivoting it on the base. When I get it about another 2 " of the ground I will tie a rope on the deck, go upstairs in the door and "pull up" the deck into location.



The bolts in the concrete will slide into the mortises cut in the base plate and that will prevent it from slipping off the concrete. The 4×4s are attached to the deck using 3 1/2" 5/8 galvanized lag bolts.

 

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More Framing

Its Canada Day. A day off from the ole grind . . . so I went back at the deck. I started by adding two more stringers. You will see why in a little while.



I'm not sure if everyone is like this, but when I'm working on an outside or rough construction work I like using scraps of wood as a notepad for jotting down measurements. This particular piece was left over from some xmas tree ornaments I made last fall.



Here is the frame all braced. Before bracing I checked it for square, expecting it to be out of square and thus needing a couple of knocks to make it right. However it was perfectly square . . . 78" from corner to corner.



Oh . . . I had to do a little caulking up on the ladder. The grass was a little damp. Perfect test for my anti-kick device. Not sure if it worked or not as the ladder did not move. :)



Now its taking shape. I ran out of lumber for bracing so I will have to pick some up tomorrow. Once this is braced sufficiently I will lift the deck end, using a jack and more braces . . . pivoting it on the base. When I get it about another 2 " of the ground I will tie a rope on the deck, go upstairs in the door and "pull up" the deck into location.



The bolts in the concrete will slide into the mortises cut in the base plate and that will prevent it from slipping off the concrete. The 4×4s are attached to the deck using 3 1/2" 5/8 galvanized lag bolts.

Impressive progress. Is that the supervisor's chair in the background?
 

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More Framing

Its Canada Day. A day off from the ole grind . . . so I went back at the deck. I started by adding two more stringers. You will see why in a little while.



I'm not sure if everyone is like this, but when I'm working on an outside or rough construction work I like using scraps of wood as a notepad for jotting down measurements. This particular piece was left over from some xmas tree ornaments I made last fall.



Here is the frame all braced. Before bracing I checked it for square, expecting it to be out of square and thus needing a couple of knocks to make it right. However it was perfectly square . . . 78" from corner to corner.



Oh . . . I had to do a little caulking up on the ladder. The grass was a little damp. Perfect test for my anti-kick device. Not sure if it worked or not as the ladder did not move. :)



Now its taking shape. I ran out of lumber for bracing so I will have to pick some up tomorrow. Once this is braced sufficiently I will lift the deck end, using a jack and more braces . . . pivoting it on the base. When I get it about another 2 " of the ground I will tie a rope on the deck, go upstairs in the door and "pull up" the deck into location.



The bolts in the concrete will slide into the mortises cut in the base plate and that will prevent it from slipping off the concrete. The 4×4s are attached to the deck using 3 1/2" 5/8 galvanized lag bolts.

Coming along nicely Zuki.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Uprising

I never did anything with the deck yesterday as I had some errands I had to run. This morning I started about 8:00 making sure that I had everything in place to rise the deck.

Up inside the door I have a 4×4 36" long that is resting on either side of the door frame. It is kept 3' off the floor with a strapping legs. I will use this 4×4 as a place to tie off the deck as I tip it up. You can see the heavy duty tie down straps that I will be using to pull the deck into position. Also note the vertical 2×8s screwed to the deck.



I am using my car jack to raise the deck 6" and then I relocate the 2×8s by dropping them 6". I then release the jack, build up the base under the jack and raise the deck another 6". I did this several times until the deck was about 3' off the ground.





Here are a couple of lifting progress pics.





When I had it 3" off the ground I went upstairs and pulled of the straps. No go. Hmmmmmm. DW then came outside and said "why don't you use the come-along". Doh . . . why didn't I think of that. In the picture below you can see the red strap connecting the steel cable of the come-along. I have removed the vertical 2×8s.



Here I am ratcheting the come-along and rising the deck. The cable is about as far as I can pull it in at this point in time.



The bolts are sliding into the mortises.



Here I am bracing the deck as I have to release the come-along and shorten the strap.


Another view of bracing the deck.



Here I have shortened the strap and reattached the come-along. You can see where the red strap attached to the steel cable.


After a little more ratcheting the deck falls into place. Here I am screwing in a lag.



Putting washers and nuts on the bolts that came through the mortises.





Looking up through.



I reworked some of the bracing and started working on the stringers. Tomorrow I will have to add the back deck posts and start the decking.




 

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Uprising

I never did anything with the deck yesterday as I had some errands I had to run. This morning I started about 8:00 making sure that I had everything in place to rise the deck.

Up inside the door I have a 4×4 36" long that is resting on either side of the door frame. It is kept 3' off the floor with a strapping legs. I will use this 4×4 as a place to tie off the deck as I tip it up. You can see the heavy duty tie down straps that I will be using to pull the deck into position. Also note the vertical 2×8s screwed to the deck.



I am using my car jack to raise the deck 6" and then I relocate the 2×8s by dropping them 6". I then release the jack, build up the base under the jack and raise the deck another 6". I did this several times until the deck was about 3' off the ground.





Here are a couple of lifting progress pics.





When I had it 3" off the ground I went upstairs and pulled of the straps. No go. Hmmmmmm. DW then came outside and said "why don't you use the come-along". Doh . . . why didn't I think of that. In the picture below you can see the red strap connecting the steel cable of the come-along. I have removed the vertical 2×8s.



Here I am ratcheting the come-along and rising the deck. The cable is about as far as I can pull it in at this point in time.



The bolts are sliding into the mortises.



Here I am bracing the deck as I have to release the come-along and shorten the strap.


Another view of bracing the deck.



Here I have shortened the strap and reattached the come-along. You can see where the red strap attached to the steel cable.


After a little more ratcheting the deck falls into place. Here I am screwing in a lag.



Putting washers and nuts on the bolts that came through the mortises.





Looking up through.



I reworked some of the bracing and started working on the stringers. Tomorrow I will have to add the back deck posts and start the decking.




Man i worry about you my friend that block on the foot of the ladder please tell me you staked it in the ground but on a plus note the frame is looking good

But please when you start to deck out please get another pair of hands that looks a dam long way down to the floor and the gap looks kind of small lol….....;) ;) ;)

Hoping to be your long friend Andy
 
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