It's going to be a looker when you're done!Frame components and tabletop
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel's Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table.
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The stack of parts is growing…
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Initial frame assembly…
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And the tabletop glueup…
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Thanks BrianFrame components and tabletop
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel's Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table.
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The stack of parts is growing…
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Initial frame assembly…
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And the tabletop glueup…
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That's coming along nicely. The figure in the top should finish out nicely too!Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop
After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
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The top finished out at about 1-1/4" thick, which pleases my eye. Much thicker, and it needs a massive base to visually support the top.
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That drum sander sure made my job easier.
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Next up will be the breadboard ends and mounting the top.
Absolutely beautifu, Willie. I really like the design. Can't wait to see the finished version.Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop
After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
![]()
The top finished out at about 1-1/4" thick, which pleases my eye. Much thicker, and it needs a massive base to visually support the top.
![]()
That drum sander sure made my job easier.
![]()
Next up will be the breadboard ends and mounting the top.
Whatever it cost to run that tabletop through the drum sander was worth it. That white oak is gonna pop so nicely with some finish on it.Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop
After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
![]()
The top finished out at about 1-1/4" thick, which pleases my eye. Much thicker, and it needs a massive base to visually support the top.
![]()
That drum sander sure made my job easier.
![]()
Next up will be the breadboard ends and mounting the top.
Yes, that drum sander saved a good days work. I like to use it for large tabletops or projects where the grain is all running the same direction.Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop
After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
![]()
The top finished out at about 1-1/4" thick, which pleases my eye. Much thicker, and it needs a massive base to visually support the top.
![]()
That drum sander sure made my job easier.
![]()
Next up will be the breadboard ends and mounting the top.
Thanks guys for some real input. I appreciate your time in answering so thoroughly!Breadboard Ends
Cutting the tenon with a router and edge guide jig. This is the setup described by Gregory Paolini. It works well, the only trouble is you have to flip the table several times while sneaking up on the final depth of cut. I recommend cutting only the first pass, then flip and check the fit. Cutting all the way to the shoulder will make it difficult to support the router. The jig is clamped in place, and stays put while you flip the top.
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Double sided jig helps align the shoulders of the tenon. I made the jig from 7" wide mdf so it would not flex while routing the tenon.
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Tenon haunches cut with a coping saw, allowing 1/4" for expansion/contraction at the outer mortises.
A groove was routed 1-1/4" deep in the breadboard end. The deeper mortises were cut at the mortiser with a 1/2" bit.
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Breadboard ends fitted. A little chamfering and some slotted screw holes, and it should be set.
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Wow. What a great table. Make a lot of Stickley-esque pieces. About to try my hand at a dining table. Your work is exquisite.End Assembly Glueup and Decorative Pegs
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8" walnut pegs.
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I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends.
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Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
Here is the way I did the angled mortises for the wedges in our bedKeyed Tenons are Mirror-Image
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight.
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Keys installed.
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A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight.
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The keys were cut on the bandsaw.
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When the keys are installed, they form a mirror image, and remind me of dragonfly wings.
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Johnny,Keyed Tenons are Mirror-Image
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight.
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Keys installed.
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A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight.
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The keys were cut on the bandsaw.
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When the keys are installed, they form a mirror image, and remind me of dragonfly wings.
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Looking very, very nice! What did you use to color and finish it? How are you going to attach the top?Finishing Touches
Top finished
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Frame assembled
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Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers.
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Laminated or not?
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By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.
Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
Brandon,Finishing Touches
Top finished
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Frame assembled
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Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers.
![]()
Laminated or not?
![]()
![]()
By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.
Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
Awesome table, Love the breadboard ends, and great finish.Finishing Touches
Top finished
![]()
Frame assembled
![]()
![]()
Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers.
![]()
Laminated or not?
![]()
![]()
By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.
Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
Great job on the table!Finishing Touches
Top finished
![]()
Frame assembled
![]()
![]()
Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers.
![]()
Laminated or not?
![]()
![]()
By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.
Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281