[GPDMTR25]

Progess is very slow...cutting the new plywood, the angles and the splines

This is actually the second in the series but I didn't understand how the blog system works. The first in the series is a separate blog entitled TV stand.

I will eventually put this on my website in more detail but here's a shorter version of some of the problems and success of making my TV stand.

I wish I had some plans or I had more knowledge about building furniture. Because I don't the project just isn't moving along very fast. What started me on this project was when I helped my parents with their TV stand. They were purchasing a new TV and their current TV set in a cabinet but the new TV wouldn't fit to they wanted something similar but lower so they could set the TV on the top of the cabinet and not inside. I told them I could disassemble it and cut it down to the size they want, and then reassemble it. I worked very well and it also gave me an opportunity to see how the cabinet was constructed. I've needed a table stand for years but not having the knowledge how to construct one and not locating any plans for one that I like, I've been putting it off. I've built a lot of cabinets but all the corners have been cut at 90 degrees. This type of project is completely new to me so it's going along very slow.

I received my new plywood.

I took at photo of the two plywood boards. The top is the imported plywood, which actually looks good in this photo. The bottom is the domestic plywood.

I cut the plywood and it worked much better than the other plywood. I cut the angles and cut the space of the splines. I had some problems cutting the splines since they are not at a 45 degree angle. After some test cut I ended up cutting them at a 90 degree angle.

I used my test boards to help support my boards while I cut the boards at a 90 degree angle. I used double sided tape to secure the boards together.

I then cut the splines using hardboard. I did some research and some testing and found hardboard to be perfect to use in my case. Here's what I found based on my research.

Splined Edge-to-Edge Joint
This is a variation of a biscuit joint. Instead of using numerous smaller biscuits, splines are essentially a single long biscuit used to align the two pieces. The spline is a piece of plywood or hardboard that is placed in a slots that are cut in the adjoining edges. These slots can be stopped so they do not show if the ends are to be exposed. One thing to keep in mind is to ensure the spline is slightly narrower than the depth of the slot. Making the spline exactly the depth of the slot can lead to splitting of the wood as the surrounding wood shrinks, but the hardboard spline does not . A gap of 1/32 (1/64th on either slot) is sufficient to prevent this problem.

There's a very good article I located regarding splines.

SPLINES

I really like my tablesaw gripper. I see someone on LJ has designed and made their own. I figure I spend most of my time building things to organize my garage so I didn't want to take the time to make one. I highly recommend getting one of these or at least building one.

 

[therookie]

Progess is very slow...cutting the new plywood, the angles and the splines

This is actually the second in the series but I didn't understand how the blog system works. The first in the series is a separate blog entitled TV stand.

I will eventually put this on my website in more detail but here's a shorter version of some of the problems and success of making my TV stand.

I wish I had some plans or I had more knowledge about building furniture. Because I don't the project just isn't moving along very fast. What started me on this project was when I helped my parents with their TV stand. They were purchasing a new TV and their current TV set in a cabinet but the new TV wouldn't fit to they wanted something similar but lower so they could set the TV on the top of the cabinet and not inside. I told them I could disassemble it and cut it down to the size they want, and then reassemble it. I worked very well and it also gave me an opportunity to see how the cabinet was constructed. I've needed a table stand for years but not having the knowledge how to construct one and not locating any plans for one that I like, I've been putting it off. I've built a lot of cabinets but all the corners have been cut at 90 degrees. This type of project is completely new to me so it's going along very slow.

I received my new plywood.

I took at photo of the two plywood boards. The top is the imported plywood, which actually looks good in this photo. The bottom is the domestic plywood.

I cut the plywood and it worked much better than the other plywood. I cut the angles and cut the space of the splines. I had some problems cutting the splines since they are not at a 45 degree angle. After some test cut I ended up cutting them at a 90 degree angle.

I used my test boards to help support my boards while I cut the boards at a 90 degree angle. I used double sided tape to secure the boards together.

I then cut the splines using hardboard. I did some research and some testing and found hardboard to be perfect to use in my case. Here's what I found based on my research.

Splined Edge-to-Edge Joint
This is a variation of a biscuit joint. Instead of using numerous smaller biscuits, splines are essentially a single long biscuit used to align the two pieces. The spline is a piece of plywood or hardboard that is placed in a slots that are cut in the adjoining edges. These slots can be stopped so they do not show if the ends are to be exposed. One thing to keep in mind is to ensure the spline is slightly narrower than the depth of the slot. Making the spline exactly the depth of the slot can lead to splitting of the wood as the surrounding wood shrinks, but the hardboard spline does not . A gap of 1/32 (1/64th on either slot) is sufficient to prevent this problem.

There's a very good article I located regarding splines.

SPLINES

I really like my tablesaw gripper. I see someone on LJ has designed and made their own. I figure I spend most of my time building things to organize my garage so I didn't want to take the time to make one. I highly recommend getting one of these or at least building one.

Its looking good

 

[GPDMTR25]

Making the front face frame... Next Step..... Ideas Welcomed

If anyone has a suggestion or idea, please feel free to add a comment. As I said I'm sort of making it up as I go along.

If took me a while to decide on how to secure the face frame. As I mentioned before I received this idea from re-assembling my parents TV stand. Once thing I was surprise to notice when I disassembled theirs, was how little glue was used. I believe their TV cabinet was from Ethan Allen.

I contemplated using a tenon joint, and then I settled on dowels. After thinking some more I ended up using pocket holes so I wouldn't have to use glue and it would allow for wood movement.

Since the rails of the frame are cut at an angle I was worried that the screws recommended, 1-1/4", would be too long so I first tried the pocket hole in some scrap wood.

I cut, marked and laid out the pieces.

I cut the pocket holes and assembled the pieces.

The project isn't glued together yet. I stopped at this point to think what my next step should be. The bottom board will be about 3" off the ground and there will be a shelf where the middle part of the face frame is. So I'm looking at ways to secure and support these pieces. My parents had support blocks that were stapled and screwed into place. I'm thinking of doing something similar.

I tried to draw what I plan on doing. I though instead of just a support block that are stapled to the side for the bottom I'd use 3" pieces so they would go to the floor. I'd use support blocks for the shelf and support blocks, for the corners to secure the top piece with screws. The top is going to be about 7/8" thick and really wood that I glued together.

Nothing too heavy is going to be stored inside the stand. My Xbox will go on the top shelf then I have a surround sound system and a DVD VCR combo that will go on the lower part. The TV is 50".

The widest part of the stand is 46" so I'm not sure if I need a support board for the board. I added it in my drawing. Although the drawing isn't great, it just showing one side to give an idea of where I'm going next.

 

[GregD]

Making the front face frame... Next Step..... Ideas Welcomed

If anyone has a suggestion or idea, please feel free to add a comment. As I said I'm sort of making it up as I go along.

If took me a while to decide on how to secure the face frame. As I mentioned before I received this idea from re-assembling my parents TV stand. Once thing I was surprise to notice when I disassembled theirs, was how little glue was used. I believe their TV cabinet was from Ethan Allen.

I contemplated using a tenon joint, and then I settled on dowels. After thinking some more I ended up using pocket holes so I wouldn't have to use glue and it would allow for wood movement.

Since the rails of the frame are cut at an angle I was worried that the screws recommended, 1-1/4", would be too long so I first tried the pocket hole in some scrap wood.

I cut, marked and laid out the pieces.

I cut the pocket holes and assembled the pieces.

The project isn't glued together yet. I stopped at this point to think what my next step should be. The bottom board will be about 3" off the ground and there will be a shelf where the middle part of the face frame is. So I'm looking at ways to secure and support these pieces. My parents had support blocks that were stapled and screwed into place. I'm thinking of doing something similar.

I tried to draw what I plan on doing. I though instead of just a support block that are stapled to the side for the bottom I'd use 3" pieces so they would go to the floor. I'd use support blocks for the shelf and support blocks, for the corners to secure the top piece with screws. The top is going to be about 7/8" thick and really wood that I glued together.

Nothing too heavy is going to be stored inside the stand. My Xbox will go on the top shelf then I have a surround sound system and a DVD VCR combo that will go on the lower part. The TV is 50".

The widest part of the stand is 46" so I'm not sure if I need a support board for the board. I added it in my drawing. Although the drawing isn't great, it just showing one side to give an idea of where I'm going next.

It seems that an easy thing to do would be to use pocket hole screws on the undersides of the bottom and middle shelves to attach them to the sides and to the face frame. As I recall, Kreg propaganda claimes that pocket screws at 4" to 6" spacing provides a fairly strong joint. At my house those shelves would not see a great deal of weight so I wouldn't think the extra glue blocks are necessary. On the other hand adding glue blocks would be easy and wouldn't hurt anything. Buscuits would also work well for attaching these shelves to the sides and would be invisible, although maybe a bit more effort than pocket hole screws.

I'm guessing the top is going to rest on the top edges of the sides. Pocket holes in the sides up to the top would work, but would be kinda visible. I might lean towards dowels or buscuits.

 

[GPDMTR25]

Making the front face frame... Next Step..... Ideas Welcomed

If anyone has a suggestion or idea, please feel free to add a comment. As I said I'm sort of making it up as I go along.

If took me a while to decide on how to secure the face frame. As I mentioned before I received this idea from re-assembling my parents TV stand. Once thing I was surprise to notice when I disassembled theirs, was how little glue was used. I believe their TV cabinet was from Ethan Allen.

I contemplated using a tenon joint, and then I settled on dowels. After thinking some more I ended up using pocket holes so I wouldn't have to use glue and it would allow for wood movement.

Since the rails of the frame are cut at an angle I was worried that the screws recommended, 1-1/4", would be too long so I first tried the pocket hole in some scrap wood.

I cut, marked and laid out the pieces.

I cut the pocket holes and assembled the pieces.

The project isn't glued together yet. I stopped at this point to think what my next step should be. The bottom board will be about 3" off the ground and there will be a shelf where the middle part of the face frame is. So I'm looking at ways to secure and support these pieces. My parents had support blocks that were stapled and screwed into place. I'm thinking of doing something similar.

I tried to draw what I plan on doing. I though instead of just a support block that are stapled to the side for the bottom I'd use 3" pieces so they would go to the floor. I'd use support blocks for the shelf and support blocks, for the corners to secure the top piece with screws. The top is going to be about 7/8" thick and really wood that I glued together.

Nothing too heavy is going to be stored inside the stand. My Xbox will go on the top shelf then I have a surround sound system and a DVD VCR combo that will go on the lower part. The TV is 50".

The widest part of the stand is 46" so I'm not sure if I need a support board for the board. I added it in my drawing. Although the drawing isn't great, it just showing one side to give an idea of where I'm going next.

Thanks Greg, I didn't even think of pocket holes. I'm glad you mentioned that. I figure the shelf won't have much weight on it either. Just on Xbox and Kinects.

One time I atttached a back of a project with pocket screws when I messed up on the measurement and it was the only thing I could use. I was amazed how strong it was.

Thanks again
Angela

 

[therookie]

Making the front face frame... Next Step..... Ideas Welcomed

If anyone has a suggestion or idea, please feel free to add a comment. As I said I'm sort of making it up as I go along.

If took me a while to decide on how to secure the face frame. As I mentioned before I received this idea from re-assembling my parents TV stand. Once thing I was surprise to notice when I disassembled theirs, was how little glue was used. I believe their TV cabinet was from Ethan Allen.

I contemplated using a tenon joint, and then I settled on dowels. After thinking some more I ended up using pocket holes so I wouldn't have to use glue and it would allow for wood movement.

Since the rails of the frame are cut at an angle I was worried that the screws recommended, 1-1/4", would be too long so I first tried the pocket hole in some scrap wood.

I cut, marked and laid out the pieces.

I cut the pocket holes and assembled the pieces.

The project isn't glued together yet. I stopped at this point to think what my next step should be. The bottom board will be about 3" off the ground and there will be a shelf where the middle part of the face frame is. So I'm looking at ways to secure and support these pieces. My parents had support blocks that were stapled and screwed into place. I'm thinking of doing something similar.

I tried to draw what I plan on doing. I though instead of just a support block that are stapled to the side for the bottom I'd use 3" pieces so they would go to the floor. I'd use support blocks for the shelf and support blocks, for the corners to secure the top piece with screws. The top is going to be about 7/8" thick and really wood that I glued together.

Nothing too heavy is going to be stored inside the stand. My Xbox will go on the top shelf then I have a surround sound system and a DVD VCR combo that will go on the lower part. The TV is 50".

The widest part of the stand is 46" so I'm not sure if I need a support board for the board. I added it in my drawing. Although the drawing isn't great, it just showing one side to give an idea of where I'm going next.

Pockect screws would be fine.

 

[GPDMTR25]

Moving along...gluing corners, cutting bottom and shelf.

In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place.

I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners.

I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn't use it for this, don't ask me why because I don't know.

I first designed a circular saw cutting jig. The jig allows me to know exactly where the blade will cut. I marked the angles on the bottom by placing the side and front pieces on top of the wood. I then marked the angles.

I cut the angles on one side then placed the side and front back on top of the wood and marked the other side. Maybe I should have done this differently since there's a little problem now. (see below)

I cut the bottom piece to size. I then cut the shelf piece the same way. I used the bottom piece to mark the shelf piece so the angles would be exact.

I stopped here to think what I want to do next.

I must have done something wrong because the angle on the back of one of the side pieces is perfect 90 degrees but the other side is a little off. It might be because the side pieces glued up slightly different and threw it off. I'm not sure.

Now I'm not sure if I'm going to make the back piece or attach the bottom or glue the front onto the sides.

A comment I received from LJ member GregD mentioned securing the bottom board and shelf with the Kreg pocket hole system. I actually never thought of this but I think it will work perfect. I won't have to use support blocks because I've used the Kreg screws on the back piece of a project I made where I made a mistake on the measurements and it was the only method I could use. I was amazed how strong it was. I never thought about using Kreg screws to assemble this project but it should work great. Also Amazon.com has 1000 1-1/4" course screws for $22.50.

Feel free to add your two cents, tell me how you would have done something different or even what to do next.

Angela

 

[GregD]

Moving along...gluing corners, cutting bottom and shelf.

In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place.

I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners.

I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn't use it for this, don't ask me why because I don't know.

I first designed a circular saw cutting jig. The jig allows me to know exactly where the blade will cut. I marked the angles on the bottom by placing the side and front pieces on top of the wood. I then marked the angles.

I cut the angles on one side then placed the side and front back on top of the wood and marked the other side. Maybe I should have done this differently since there's a little problem now. (see below)

I cut the bottom piece to size. I then cut the shelf piece the same way. I used the bottom piece to mark the shelf piece so the angles would be exact.

I stopped here to think what I want to do next.

I must have done something wrong because the angle on the back of one of the side pieces is perfect 90 degrees but the other side is a little off. It might be because the side pieces glued up slightly different and threw it off. I'm not sure.

Now I'm not sure if I'm going to make the back piece or attach the bottom or glue the front onto the sides.

A comment I received from LJ member GregD mentioned securing the bottom board and shelf with the Kreg pocket hole system. I actually never thought of this but I think it will work perfect. I won't have to use support blocks because I've used the Kreg screws on the back piece of a project I made where I made a mistake on the measurements and it was the only method I could use. I was amazed how strong it was. I never thought about using Kreg screws to assemble this project but it should work great. Also Amazon.com has 1000 1-1/4" course screws for $22.50.

Feel free to add your two cents, tell me how you would have done something different or even what to do next.

Angela

My experience seems to be that the glue-up process introduces a lot of variability in the final result. Even if the parts are cut accurately you still need to plan your glue-up process so the assembly "lands" where it is supposed to. With good quality bar clamps I have been impressed at how much I can pull my assemblies into - or out of - square while keeping the joints acceptably tight. So whenever I need something to land precisely a certain way I put stuff in my glue-up procedure to force that outcome. I probably would have clamped the side pieces to the shelves during the glue up.

Do I understand the pictures correctly? It looks like on one side the front edge of the shelf lands 3/8" proud and on the other it is 1/16" short. If you get a good fit between the shelf and the sides otherwise, I'd just recut the front edge so it isn't proud on the one side. If you want to get fussy, rip a thin strip of face frame material and glue it on the front edge of your shelf so it is proud on both sides. The gap will then be eliminated when you mark/recut the front edge. Since it will be quite thin, sanding it flush (before assembly) should be a simple task.

Once the shelves fit I would drill out the pocket holes. Then clamp together the sides and shelves. I would rip spacers the same width as the distance from the bottom edge of the sides and the bottom surface of the bottom shelf. I'd clamp these in place and add a couple of clamps to pull the bottom shelf firmly against them. I'd also rip some spacers the same width as the distance from the top surface of the bottom shelf and the bottom surface of the middle shelf. Clamp those spacers in place and put the middle shelf firmly on top of that. Use your band clamp (two if you have them) to pull the assembly together. Where ever you can see to do it, add clamps to force parts (the shelves) into the proper location. Remember that the pocket screws are going to want to push the joint apart before pulling it together, and the more tightly you have the parts clamped the less this can throw off your assembly. I try to minimize this by running my drill on a very slow speed when driving the pocket screws, but even then they still try to force apart the joint. You also want the assembly firmly on a flat surface so you don't introduce a twist. To avoid any chance of strip-out I don't seat the screws using the drill, I do that by hand.

Looks good!

 

[GregD]

Moving along...gluing corners, cutting bottom and shelf.

In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place.

I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners.

I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn't use it for this, don't ask me why because I don't know.

I first designed a circular saw cutting jig. The jig allows me to know exactly where the blade will cut. I marked the angles on the bottom by placing the side and front pieces on top of the wood. I then marked the angles.

I cut the angles on one side then placed the side and front back on top of the wood and marked the other side. Maybe I should have done this differently since there's a little problem now. (see below)

I cut the bottom piece to size. I then cut the shelf piece the same way. I used the bottom piece to mark the shelf piece so the angles would be exact.

I stopped here to think what I want to do next.

I must have done something wrong because the angle on the back of one of the side pieces is perfect 90 degrees but the other side is a little off. It might be because the side pieces glued up slightly different and threw it off. I'm not sure.

Now I'm not sure if I'm going to make the back piece or attach the bottom or glue the front onto the sides.

A comment I received from LJ member GregD mentioned securing the bottom board and shelf with the Kreg pocket hole system. I actually never thought of this but I think it will work perfect. I won't have to use support blocks because I've used the Kreg screws on the back piece of a project I made where I made a mistake on the measurements and it was the only method I could use. I was amazed how strong it was. I never thought about using Kreg screws to assemble this project but it should work great. Also Amazon.com has 1000 1-1/4" course screws for $22.50.

Feel free to add your two cents, tell me how you would have done something different or even what to do next.

Angela

BTW, the splined bevels turned out great, from what I can see. Getting those tight was probably the most important thing to accomplish during the glue up.

 

[GPDMTR25]

Moving along...gluing corners, cutting bottom and shelf.

In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place.

I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners.

I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn't use it for this, don't ask me why because I don't know.

I first designed a circular saw cutting jig. The jig allows me to know exactly where the blade will cut. I marked the angles on the bottom by placing the side and front pieces on top of the wood. I then marked the angles.

I cut the angles on one side then placed the side and front back on top of the wood and marked the other side. Maybe I should have done this differently since there's a little problem now. (see below)

I cut the bottom piece to size. I then cut the shelf piece the same way. I used the bottom piece to mark the shelf piece so the angles would be exact.

I stopped here to think what I want to do next.

I must have done something wrong because the angle on the back of one of the side pieces is perfect 90 degrees but the other side is a little off. It might be because the side pieces glued up slightly different and threw it off. I'm not sure.

Now I'm not sure if I'm going to make the back piece or attach the bottom or glue the front onto the sides.

A comment I received from LJ member GregD mentioned securing the bottom board and shelf with the Kreg pocket hole system. I actually never thought of this but I think it will work perfect. I won't have to use support blocks because I've used the Kreg screws on the back piece of a project I made where I made a mistake on the measurements and it was the only method I could use. I was amazed how strong it was. I never thought about using Kreg screws to assemble this project but it should work great. Also Amazon.com has 1000 1-1/4" course screws for $22.50.

Feel free to add your two cents, tell me how you would have done something different or even what to do next.

Angela

I probably would have clamped the side pieces to the shelves during the glue up.

This would have been a good idea but since this is new to me I didn't think of it. I used the sides to determine the shelf size but if it wasn't already cut I would do it differently. I'd cut the shelf to size and attach it all at once.

Do I understand the pictures correctly? It looks like on one side the front edge of the shelf lands 3/8" proud and on the other it is 1/16" short.

It's actually the back and not the front so it won't show. The front fits great so it's not that big of a deal since I'm the only one that will ever see the back and so I'm the only one that knows what's going on back there.

Use your band clamp (two if you have them) to pull the assembly together. Where ever you can see to do it, add clamps to force parts (the shelves) into the proper location. Remember that the pocket screws are going to want to push the joint apart before pulling it together, and the more tightly you have the parts clamped the less this can throw off your assembly. I try to minimize this by running my drill on a very slow speed when driving the pocket screws, but even then they still try to force apart the joint. You also want the assembly firmly on a flat surface so you don't introduce a twist. To avoid any chance of strip-out I don't seat the screws using the drill, I do that by hand.

It's funny because I stopped for the day and order another band clamp because I only have one. I'd like to use three of them but didn't want to purchase 2 more so I just got one. I'll get it tomorrow.

I was worried about installing the screws and the force on the glued joint. Thanks for the ideas. I was throwing around a bunch of different ideas of ways to attach the pocket screws while still keeping everything together. I'll use the spacers too.

I'm planning on attaching the bottom and the shelf then worry about fixing the back. I'm not sure what will happen with the back once I install the pocket screws so I'll wait and see then determine what I'll do with the back.

I try to minimize this by running my drill on a very slow speed when driving the pocket screws…To avoid any chance of strip-out I don't seat the screws using the drill, I do that by hand.

Good idea. I've had trouble with plywood and the screws just turning so the hand thing is a good idea.

Thanks again for your time
Angela

 

[GregD]

Moving along...gluing corners, cutting bottom and shelf.

In planning to glue to corners I cut some angle blocks to assist in holding the clamps in place.

I also used a special clamp for angles that I highly recommend if you have to glue up unusual corners or large miter corners.

I then tried to figure out how to cut the bottom and shelf. I decided to use my circular saw. Before having a table saw, I used a circular saw to cut the wood so I have a good blade for plywood. I also own a forrest blade but I didn't use it for this, don't ask me why because I don't know.

I first designed a circular saw cutting jig. The jig allows me to know exactly where the blade will cut. I marked the angles on the bottom by placing the side and front pieces on top of the wood. I then marked the angles.

I cut the angles on one side then placed the side and front back on top of the wood and marked the other side. Maybe I should have done this differently since there's a little problem now. (see below)

I cut the bottom piece to size. I then cut the shelf piece the same way. I used the bottom piece to mark the shelf piece so the angles would be exact.

I stopped here to think what I want to do next.

I must have done something wrong because the angle on the back of one of the side pieces is perfect 90 degrees but the other side is a little off. It might be because the side pieces glued up slightly different and threw it off. I'm not sure.

Now I'm not sure if I'm going to make the back piece or attach the bottom or glue the front onto the sides.

A comment I received from LJ member GregD mentioned securing the bottom board and shelf with the Kreg pocket hole system. I actually never thought of this but I think it will work perfect. I won't have to use support blocks because I've used the Kreg screws on the back piece of a project I made where I made a mistake on the measurements and it was the only method I could use. I was amazed how strong it was. I never thought about using Kreg screws to assemble this project but it should work great. Also Amazon.com has 1000 1-1/4" course screws for $22.50.

Feel free to add your two cents, tell me how you would have done something different or even what to do next.

Angela

If the pilot hole of the pocket hole could be extended into the mating piece of the joint, driving the screw would not, I think, try to push the joint apart.

 

[GPDMTR25]

Bottom and Shelf added

I'm ready to add the bottom. As member GregD suggested I'm going to use Kreg pocket holes to secure the bottom and shelf in place.

I cut some support boards at a height that would allow me to rest the bottom on them and then screw the bottom in place. I turned the work piece upside down to make it easier to screw it in place.

Once the bottom was secured, I cut the support boards down to the height I needed for them to support the shelf. I then installed the shelf.

I've never added molding to any of my projects before so I've been looking into that. I wasn't sure about the size of the molding but I figured I'd use 3" X 3/4" for the base. This is the size of the wood piece at the bottom front of the cabinet in the photo above. Although 3/4" seems rather thick so I might go down to 1/2".

I'm also working on the top piece. I figure it will be about 7/8" thick. I'm still planing it down. Once down to size I'll either try to joint it on my router table or take it to the mill and have them do it so then I can glue the boards together. I've also been looking at the different router bits to form the edge of the table top.

The last thing I'll make is the doors. I've made a lot of rail and stile door frames but not with raised panel so this will be something else new.

Angela

 

[Tootles]

Bottom and Shelf added

I'm ready to add the bottom. As member GregD suggested I'm going to use Kreg pocket holes to secure the bottom and shelf in place.

I cut some support boards at a height that would allow me to rest the bottom on them and then screw the bottom in place. I turned the work piece upside down to make it easier to screw it in place.

Once the bottom was secured, I cut the support boards down to the height I needed for them to support the shelf. I then installed the shelf.

I've never added molding to any of my projects before so I've been looking into that. I wasn't sure about the size of the molding but I figured I'd use 3" X 3/4" for the base. This is the size of the wood piece at the bottom front of the cabinet in the photo above. Although 3/4" seems rather thick so I might go down to 1/2".

I'm also working on the top piece. I figure it will be about 7/8" thick. I'm still planing it down. Once down to size I'll either try to joint it on my router table or take it to the mill and have them do it so then I can glue the boards together. I've also been looking at the different router bits to form the edge of the table top.

The last thing I'll make is the doors. I've made a lot of rail and stile door frames but not with raised panel so this will be something else new.

Angela

It's looking good

 

[therookie]

Bottom and Shelf added

I'm ready to add the bottom. As member GregD suggested I'm going to use Kreg pocket holes to secure the bottom and shelf in place.

I cut some support boards at a height that would allow me to rest the bottom on them and then screw the bottom in place. I turned the work piece upside down to make it easier to screw it in place.

Once the bottom was secured, I cut the support boards down to the height I needed for them to support the shelf. I then installed the shelf.

I've never added molding to any of my projects before so I've been looking into that. I wasn't sure about the size of the molding but I figured I'd use 3" X 3/4" for the base. This is the size of the wood piece at the bottom front of the cabinet in the photo above. Although 3/4" seems rather thick so I might go down to 1/2".

I'm also working on the top piece. I figure it will be about 7/8" thick. I'm still planing it down. Once down to size I'll either try to joint it on my router table or take it to the mill and have them do it so then I can glue the boards together. I've also been looking at the different router bits to form the edge of the table top.

The last thing I'll make is the doors. I've made a lot of rail and stile door frames but not with raised panel so this will be something else new.

Angela

Very nice

 

[GPDMTR25]

Problems with the top....and the heat

Heat
Well I haven't written an update because it's been too hot in my garage in So. Ca. I have a detached, 1938, garage without air condition. The heat never bothered me but as I get older it's been getting to me.

Problems
Another problem I'm having is with the top of the TV stand. I mentioned before that I purchased 14' of 6/4 African mahogany rough wood. I cut the wood into 3 pieces. (4', 4', and 6')

Because it's been about 100 degrees in my garage, I decided to take it to my local lumberyard and have the yard finish the 1/8" left to plane and use their jointer on the boards.

They told me they don't have a jointer instead they use their table saw to do all their glue ups. Now that I have the boards home there's no way I can glue up the board based on their table saw cut. The ends of the boards match up but the center part of the boards concave away from each other.

They planed the boards but when I got them home, one board is twisted. It wasn't like this before and I planed most of the rough wood but since my planer is small I thought I'd have them take off the last 1/8". Before taking the boards in they all were flat. They all came from the same one board but now I have one that's twisted.

So I'm a little frustrated. I need to spend some time fixing everything but it's too hot in the garage right now. All this well take some time so it will be awhile for the next update.

Angela

 

[therookie]

Problems with the top....and the heat

Heat
Well I haven't written an update because it's been too hot in my garage in So. Ca. I have a detached, 1938, garage without air condition. The heat never bothered me but as I get older it's been getting to me.

Problems
Another problem I'm having is with the top of the TV stand. I mentioned before that I purchased 14' of 6/4 African mahogany rough wood. I cut the wood into 3 pieces. (4', 4', and 6')

Because it's been about 100 degrees in my garage, I decided to take it to my local lumberyard and have the yard finish the 1/8" left to plane and use their jointer on the boards.

They told me they don't have a jointer instead they use their table saw to do all their glue ups. Now that I have the boards home there's no way I can glue up the board based on their table saw cut. The ends of the boards match up but the center part of the boards concave away from each other.

They planed the boards but when I got them home, one board is twisted. It wasn't like this before and I planed most of the rough wood but since my planer is small I thought I'd have them take off the last 1/8". Before taking the boards in they all were flat. They all came from the same one board but now I have one that's twisted.

So I'm a little frustrated. I need to spend some time fixing everything but it's too hot in the garage right now. All this well take some time so it will be awhile for the next update.

Angela

thats extremly frustrating.

 

[Bertha]

Problems with the top....and the heat

Heat
Well I haven't written an update because it's been too hot in my garage in So. Ca. I have a detached, 1938, garage without air condition. The heat never bothered me but as I get older it's been getting to me.

Problems
Another problem I'm having is with the top of the TV stand. I mentioned before that I purchased 14' of 6/4 African mahogany rough wood. I cut the wood into 3 pieces. (4', 4', and 6')

Because it's been about 100 degrees in my garage, I decided to take it to my local lumberyard and have the yard finish the 1/8" left to plane and use their jointer on the boards.

They told me they don't have a jointer instead they use their table saw to do all their glue ups. Now that I have the boards home there's no way I can glue up the board based on their table saw cut. The ends of the boards match up but the center part of the boards concave away from each other.

They planed the boards but when I got them home, one board is twisted. It wasn't like this before and I planed most of the rough wood but since my planer is small I thought I'd have them take off the last 1/8". Before taking the boards in they all were flat. They all came from the same one board but now I have one that's twisted.

So I'm a little frustrated. I need to spend some time fixing everything but it's too hot in the garage right now. All this well take some time so it will be awhile for the next update.

Angela

Do you own a jointer?

 

[GregD]

Problems with the top....and the heat

Heat
Well I haven't written an update because it's been too hot in my garage in So. Ca. I have a detached, 1938, garage without air condition. The heat never bothered me but as I get older it's been getting to me.

Problems
Another problem I'm having is with the top of the TV stand. I mentioned before that I purchased 14' of 6/4 African mahogany rough wood. I cut the wood into 3 pieces. (4', 4', and 6')

Because it's been about 100 degrees in my garage, I decided to take it to my local lumberyard and have the yard finish the 1/8" left to plane and use their jointer on the boards.

They told me they don't have a jointer instead they use their table saw to do all their glue ups. Now that I have the boards home there's no way I can glue up the board based on their table saw cut. The ends of the boards match up but the center part of the boards concave away from each other.

They planed the boards but when I got them home, one board is twisted. It wasn't like this before and I planed most of the rough wood but since my planer is small I thought I'd have them take off the last 1/8". Before taking the boards in they all were flat. They all came from the same one board but now I have one that's twisted.

So I'm a little frustrated. I need to spend some time fixing everything but it's too hot in the garage right now. All this well take some time so it will be awhile for the next update.

Angela

I work in a detached garage near Houston. High temperatures have been about 100 for the last month or two. This spring I installed a gable vent fan in the back of the garage to get rid of the hot air that otherwise accumulates back there. I turn on that fan ahead of time to bring the temperature down to the outside temperature, and I keep another fan blowing directly on me most of the time that I'm out there.

Coincidentally, the door I've been working on since January is also African Mahogany.

Bummer about the piece that twisted. Wood will do what it will do.

Edge jointing with a router and straight edge would work. Maybe you could use the cut edge of your circular saw jig. Some people clamp down the mating pieces so that when they run the router down the straight edge the bit runs between the mating surfaces (which face each other) and trims both of the mating surfaces at the same time. This ensures that they are parallel even if the straight edge is a bit curved.

Are you going to use anything to keep the edges aligned?

 

[gizmodyne]

Problems with the top....and the heat

Heat
Well I haven't written an update because it's been too hot in my garage in So. Ca. I have a detached, 1938, garage without air condition. The heat never bothered me but as I get older it's been getting to me.

Problems
Another problem I'm having is with the top of the TV stand. I mentioned before that I purchased 14' of 6/4 African mahogany rough wood. I cut the wood into 3 pieces. (4', 4', and 6')

Because it's been about 100 degrees in my garage, I decided to take it to my local lumberyard and have the yard finish the 1/8" left to plane and use their jointer on the boards.

They told me they don't have a jointer instead they use their table saw to do all their glue ups. Now that I have the boards home there's no way I can glue up the board based on their table saw cut. The ends of the boards match up but the center part of the boards concave away from each other.

They planed the boards but when I got them home, one board is twisted. It wasn't like this before and I planed most of the rough wood but since my planer is small I thought I'd have them take off the last 1/8". Before taking the boards in they all were flat. They all came from the same one board but now I have one that's twisted.

So I'm a little frustrated. I need to spend some time fixing everything but it's too hot in the garage right now. All this well take some time so it will be awhile for the next update.

Angela

Hi,

You are welcome to come use my jointer. I'm in Pasadena. Send me a message.

John

 

[GPDMTR25]

Problems with the top....and the heat

Heat
Well I haven't written an update because it's been too hot in my garage in So. Ca. I have a detached, 1938, garage without air condition. The heat never bothered me but as I get older it's been getting to me.

Problems
Another problem I'm having is with the top of the TV stand. I mentioned before that I purchased 14' of 6/4 African mahogany rough wood. I cut the wood into 3 pieces. (4', 4', and 6')

Because it's been about 100 degrees in my garage, I decided to take it to my local lumberyard and have the yard finish the 1/8" left to plane and use their jointer on the boards.

They told me they don't have a jointer instead they use their table saw to do all their glue ups. Now that I have the boards home there's no way I can glue up the board based on their table saw cut. The ends of the boards match up but the center part of the boards concave away from each other.

They planed the boards but when I got them home, one board is twisted. It wasn't like this before and I planed most of the rough wood but since my planer is small I thought I'd have them take off the last 1/8". Before taking the boards in they all were flat. They all came from the same one board but now I have one that's twisted.

So I'm a little frustrated. I need to spend some time fixing everything but it's too hot in the garage right now. All this well take some time so it will be awhile for the next update.

Angela

I added two turbines in the roof and I have a swamp cooler but that doesn't really keep me cool it just causes me to sweat more.

John - I might take you up on that. I'm going to try the router thing first and if that doesn't work I'll be contacting you. I went to Arroyo Hardwood in Pasadena to have the work done on the boards.