[HappyHowie]

Milling 6/4 Rough Sawn Lumber Parts

After several days of study and analysis, I decided I would make a trestle table for my granddaughter Torrence. It boiled down between this relatively small trestle table or a shaker style writing desk with two drawers under the table top. Each would be approximately the same size of about 60 inches long and 30 inches wide.

Frankly, the decision really came down to my desire to make a beautiful trestle table; one with great curves and shapes.

Actually this trestle table's top will be 54 inches long and 27 inches wide by 29 inches tall. This will be designed similar to a table designed by Gary Rogowski in an article he wrote for Fine Woodworking Magazine, September 2010. I plan to make a few feature change to Mr Rogowshi's article with respect to the shape of the top and the stretcher. Of course, this table will have tower legs on each end with a single stretcher connecting the two a few inches below the table top. I will make the typical through tenons with thin wedges that can be tapped into place in order to hold the stretcher in place. I will make the top so it can have its screws unfastened if the table needs to broken down for transport when moving.

I had a 6/4 rough sawn cherry board in my shop's lumber rack. It had twisted while in my shop. So I began milling the table parts to see if I could use this board and get the dimensioned parts I needed for the stretcher, feet, legs and caps at the top of the legs. In order to maximize the parts thickness, I cut the board to the parts approximate lengths and even to rip some of those parts so I could reduce the effects of the board's twist. It worked for me when making one surface flat on my jointer.

I was able to mill these 6/4 parts today so I do not need to purchase a new 6/4 rough sawn board. I have what I need.

I can next go to my hardwood lumber store to purchase the 4/4 cherry rough sawn lumber. I will make the table top from this 4/4 lumber. That shopping trip will be Monday, at the earliest.

By looking at the milled parts in the photos below, can you tell how I mark the flat jointed surface with the edge squared to it at 90 degrees?

I ran these parts through my thickness planer . Next I will rip these parts on my table saw to get the final dimensions of width and their lengths, including any tenon lengths to fit into mortises.

 

[HappyHowie]

Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

 

[AandCstyle]

Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Howie, it may not be an issue for you, but I like to sticker freshly machined boards to endure that any moisture content changes will be from all sides.

 

[Bigrock]

Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Hi:
I don't know where you are getting you material, but here in Virginia most if not all the sawyers are using some type band saw mill.
On wide mater up to 14 1/2" I will plane both sides thick and then check them for flatness and parallel. About 99% of the time they are flat and straight. Thy it and see what you get.
Have Fun In Your Shop

 

[HappyHowie]

Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Hello Art, the photos above were directly from my milling process. I do sticker my milled lumber. You may notice the pile of stickered maple I have stacked on my planer in the first photo's background. My new cherry lumber as rough sawn directly from my hardwood was stickered in shop in order to acclimate to its humidity. However, this lumber seemed very dry; unlike the 6/4 cherry I bought last winter. That moved a lot. It is what I used for the leg assemblies.

Do you immediately sticker your milled lumber from your jointer and planer? What advantage does that give you?

 

[AandCstyle]

Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Howie, I was concerned that the stack in the first pic was to be left as it was shown. I sticker my freshly milled stock as soon as I complete the initial milling. I don't know if there is any advantage other than my peace of mind that I am doing all I can to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

 

[HappyHowie]

Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Art, I am all in for peace of mind. I will adopt your method. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[HappyHowie]

Milled and Cut Leg Assembly Parts to Final Dimensions

Today I took the 6/4 lumber parts that I had initially milled to rough dimensions so I could finish the milling process by cutting them to final lengths and widths. I left approximately a 1/16" in their widths from the table saw cuts so I could use my bench planes to remove the blade burns and saw marks. I also smoothly removed the surface's planer marks from all flat surfaces.

For the two batten parts that call for 5/8" thick timber I chose to resaw the 1 inch thick board on my table saw instead of passing it through my planer. Resawing the board left me with a 1/8 thick veneer piece that I can use later on something else. I hand planed the resawn batten parts flat and smooth to its final thickness of 5/8 inches; first with my #6 and then my #4 bench planes.

Hey Art, I haved given below an image of these parts stickered on my assembly table. They will be ready to mark for mortise and tenon joinery.

My plan for tomorrow will be first to make long enough clamping cauls to make sure the glue up of my table top will be flat across its surface. The Bowclamp cauls I purchased early on in my woodworking days are too short for use on this table top. I will make the new ones myself from scrap maple I have in my shop. These clamping cauls will look similar to the sketch below that I found on the Internet. Maybe I should search here on Lumberjocks to see what other woodworkers have made for clamping cauls.

I might as well make three or four cauls since I believe making several tables will be in my future.

 

[HappyHowie]

Mechanic Duties

If a woodworker is going to have electrical and mechanical equipment in his shop he should also acquire the skills to setup and repair those machines, or keep a mechanic handy. They won't be cheap unless they are sons or brothers. I have both who are very skilled. I have tried to have them teach me what I need to know. If they have done tasks like wire in a panel or box then I attempt to copy their work.

I heard my planer yesterday begin to make a loud racket. This morning I found this metal key on my shop floor as I was cleaning.

The Key I found on My Shop Floor. With item found I knew exactly what machine it came from because I heard the knocking noise yesterday. I am not always that lucky…

Measuring the length of this key let me know which of the two keys shown in the planer's manual this key went to. The other, of course, was to the pulley at the other end. The one that turns the cutters. That one should measure 30 mm long.

Turns out two keys are used in my planer. This one based on it length fits the pulley on the motor.

Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?

Metric sockets and wrenches.

Here we go… Let's get back to woodworking…

 

[49er]

Mechanic Duties

If a woodworker is going to have electrical and mechanical equipment in his shop he should also acquire the skills to setup and repair those machines, or keep a mechanic handy. They won't be cheap unless they are sons or brothers. I have both who are very skilled. I have tried to have them teach me what I need to know. If they have done tasks like wire in a panel or box then I attempt to copy their work.

I heard my planer yesterday begin to make a loud racket. This morning I found this metal key on my shop floor as I was cleaning.

The Key I found on My Shop Floor. With item found I knew exactly what machine it came from because I heard the knocking noise yesterday. I am not always that lucky…

Measuring the length of this key let me know which of the two keys shown in the planer's manual this key went to. The other, of course, was to the pulley at the other end. The one that turns the cutters. That one should measure 30 mm long.

Turns out two keys are used in my planer. This one based on it length fits the pulley on the motor.

Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?

Metric sockets and wrenches.

Here we go… Let's get back to woodworking…

Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?
Da, short answer No.

Is your key a snug fit? Does it need to be tapped in place? It should be.
Just a tip, locttite makes some good products to keep seals, bearings, and the like in place. They have many specialized products beyond thread lockers.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/product_advisor/index.shtml

 

[HappyHowie]

Mechanic Duties

If a woodworker is going to have electrical and mechanical equipment in his shop he should also acquire the skills to setup and repair those machines, or keep a mechanic handy. They won't be cheap unless they are sons or brothers. I have both who are very skilled. I have tried to have them teach me what I need to know. If they have done tasks like wire in a panel or box then I attempt to copy their work.

I heard my planer yesterday begin to make a loud racket. This morning I found this metal key on my shop floor as I was cleaning.

The Key I found on My Shop Floor. With item found I knew exactly what machine it came from because I heard the knocking noise yesterday. I am not always that lucky…

Measuring the length of this key let me know which of the two keys shown in the planer's manual this key went to. The other, of course, was to the pulley at the other end. The one that turns the cutters. That one should measure 30 mm long.

Turns out two keys are used in my planer. This one based on it length fits the pulley on the motor.

Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?

Metric sockets and wrenches.

Here we go… Let's get back to woodworking…

49er, I did take a hammer to tap it in tightly. I believe it came loose from an allen pin not being tightened down on the key well enough. I have had this planer in service for three years. It took that amount of time to work itself loose.

So I have fastened the key and the allen pins down tightly. I also used WD-40 on the cutters and with paper towels and then a bristle brush and a cloth, I cleaned the spiral cutterhead. I also used a small level to make sure the motor was fastened level so the belt would be traveling on the pulleys correctly.

I have noticed while operating the planer today that the knocking noise is gone plus it is running smoother. It is a big improvement.

 

[HappyHowie]

Cambered Cauls

In order to make sure the table top I will be gluing will be flat and so I can keep the thickness I have milled to separate board, I am making cambered cauls for clamping. I want the boards to retain their milled thickness of 13/16 inches so I can cut curved edges to the table top.

I read somewhere during my research that softwood lumber is okay for clamping cauls. I bought three 2 by 12 by 8 feet redwood planks today at Lowes. I selected the planks that where very straight. Also most of these boards do not have any knots in them.

I am generally following a Fine Woodworking article to make these cambered cauls by using my planer.

Prior to jointing a surface flat I decided cut the eight foot lengths of the three planks in half and then rip the four foot planks into thirds. The ripped widths thus is oversized to 3 1/2 inches. This leaves me three 3 1/2 inch wide boards, four feet long.

Then I jointed one surface flat and and an edge square to it. From there I ran the 18 boards through my planer so they all have the same thickness.

Next I ripped each of these boards to 3 inches width with the squared edge up against my table saw's fence.

I then crosscut these boards so I have three sets of six boards to the following lengths: 28 inches, 38 inches and lastly 44 inches. Then with a rule I marked the center point on the edge I am going to camber a slope to their edges.

I clamped a stop on the planer. Laid the center line past the cutters and then planed off 1/16ths inch on the short boards, about an 1/8th inch off the 38 inch long boards and bit more from the 44 inch long boards.

They are good to go as they are, but I also bought six 6 inch long bolts and six 8 inch long bolts. Tomorrow I will drill holes in the ends of these cambered cauls so I can bolt them to sandwiched table top between them.

I drew squiggle lines on the cambered edges so I can easily determine what edge to apply to the table top when I glue it together.

Tomorrow I will also rub on paste wax on all surfaces of these cauls. I will then determine if I should apply any packing tape to the cambered edge in order to avoid having the surface adhere to the table top when I glue and clamp it.

 

[Bigrock]

Cambered Cauls

In order to make sure the table top I will be gluing will be flat and so I can keep the thickness I have milled to separate board, I am making cambered cauls for clamping. I want the boards to retain their milled thickness of 13/16 inches so I can cut curved edges to the table top.

I read somewhere during my research that softwood lumber is okay for clamping cauls. I bought three 2 by 12 by 8 feet redwood planks today at Lowes. I selected the planks that where very straight. Also most of these boards do not have any knots in them.

I am generally following a Fine Woodworking article to make these cambered cauls by using my planer.

Prior to jointing a surface flat I decided cut the eight foot lengths of the three planks in half and then rip the four foot planks into thirds. The ripped widths thus is oversized to 3 1/2 inches. This leaves me three 3 1/2 inch wide boards, four feet long.

Then I jointed one surface flat and and an edge square to it. From there I ran the 18 boards through my planer so they all have the same thickness.

Next I ripped each of these boards to 3 inches width with the squared edge up against my table saw's fence.

I then crosscut these boards so I have three sets of six boards to the following lengths: 28 inches, 38 inches and lastly 44 inches. Then with a rule I marked the center point on the edge I am going to camber a slope to their edges.

I clamped a stop on the planer. Laid the center line past the cutters and then planed off 1/16ths inch on the short boards, about an 1/8th inch off the 38 inch long boards and bit more from the 44 inch long boards.

They are good to go as they are, but I also bought six 6 inch long bolts and six 8 inch long bolts. Tomorrow I will drill holes in the ends of these cambered cauls so I can bolt them to sandwiched table top between them.

I drew squiggle lines on the cambered edges so I can easily determine what edge to apply to the table top when I glue it together.

Tomorrow I will also rub on paste wax on all surfaces of these cauls. I will then determine if I should apply any packing tape to the cambered edge in order to avoid having the surface adhere to the table top when I glue and clamp it.

Hi:
Yes I would apply packing tape to the cauls.
I notice in the background that you have a Grizzly Jointer. Which model is it and what do you think of it. You can send me a message

 

[HappyHowie]

Cambered Cauls

In order to make sure the table top I will be gluing will be flat and so I can keep the thickness I have milled to separate board, I am making cambered cauls for clamping. I want the boards to retain their milled thickness of 13/16 inches so I can cut curved edges to the table top.

I read somewhere during my research that softwood lumber is okay for clamping cauls. I bought three 2 by 12 by 8 feet redwood planks today at Lowes. I selected the planks that where very straight. Also most of these boards do not have any knots in them.

I am generally following a Fine Woodworking article to make these cambered cauls by using my planer.

Prior to jointing a surface flat I decided cut the eight foot lengths of the three planks in half and then rip the four foot planks into thirds. The ripped widths thus is oversized to 3 1/2 inches. This leaves me three 3 1/2 inch wide boards, four feet long.

Then I jointed one surface flat and and an edge square to it. From there I ran the 18 boards through my planer so they all have the same thickness.

Next I ripped each of these boards to 3 inches width with the squared edge up against my table saw's fence.

I then crosscut these boards so I have three sets of six boards to the following lengths: 28 inches, 38 inches and lastly 44 inches. Then with a rule I marked the center point on the edge I am going to camber a slope to their edges.

I clamped a stop on the planer. Laid the center line past the cutters and then planed off 1/16ths inch on the short boards, about an 1/8th inch off the 38 inch long boards and bit more from the 44 inch long boards.

They are good to go as they are, but I also bought six 6 inch long bolts and six 8 inch long bolts. Tomorrow I will drill holes in the ends of these cambered cauls so I can bolt them to sandwiched table top between them.

I drew squiggle lines on the cambered edges so I can easily determine what edge to apply to the table top when I glue it together.

Tomorrow I will also rub on paste wax on all surfaces of these cauls. I will then determine if I should apply any packing tape to the cambered edge in order to avoid having the surface adhere to the table top when I glue and clamp it.

Hi Bigrock,

When I started woodworking in 2013 I priced several brands at my local Woodcraft store. They generally were selling Powermatic and Jet; maybe some others. I knew quickly that I want a jointer larger than 6 inches. When I inquired about the price of an 8" jointer I got shocked by the salesman's reply. He said: "Well, you probably couldn't afford it". I don't how he determined what I could afford, or not. I simply retorted that he was brand biased.

I made the decision to purchase most major items from Grizzly: floor drill press, planer, and their jointer. The specific model of jointer I listed below. I enjoy it very much. I have noticed many other well known woodworker that have videos on YouTube and Fine Woodworking also are using Grizzly equipment.

G0490X 8" Jointer w/ Spiral Cutter and Parallelogram Beds

My jointer has worked great from the first. I checked the setup settings before using it for the first time. All of the manual's specifications were correct right out of the box. Only this latest issue with one of the motor's key worked itself loose. I have now repaired that and I think my jointer is working the best it ever has. Without prior experience I probably did not know that the allen pins needed tightening. It sounds better and is working better even with thin or thick passes over the spiral cutterhead. The parallelogram beds are so easy to set. I have not needed to adjust the outfeed table since day one. The infeed was adjusted when I placed it into service over three years ago. Now all I need to do is set the depth I want the jointer cut from whatever board I am going to joint flat. I oil it every so often and check the flatness of the two surfaces now and then.

I am still getting great smooth cuts on the initial edges of the cutters. I bought a hardened tool so when they need to be turned 90 degrees I can do that without running to store. However, I do not need to turn them yet.

I do not have experience on any other jointer brand, but it is hard to imagine any other 8 inch jointer being better. If I had a wish it would be that I had a wider jointer: maybe 12 inches would take care of all the hardwood I have been buying. Who knows. I saw some nice wide cherry timber the other day. Maybe if I struck it rich, I would get a 16 or 24 inch jointer. If only I was rich…

My Grizzly jointer has been great.

 

[HappyHowie]

Complete Cambered Cauls

After using my planer yesterday to cut the cambered ends, I drilled holes two inches in from the ends of each caul. I selected a 3/8" drill bit in order to easily fit the 5/16 diameter bolts I purchased yesterday. Besides laying the bolt on my bench and testing the thickness of a 5/16" and a 3/8" drill bit along side the bolt, I also drilled a test hole in a scrap board. I selected my 3/8 inch drill bit for my cambered cauls.

After marking a line two inches in from each end, I also used my combination square to determine and mark the halfway mark on the cambered edge. I pushed a starter hole with my scratch awl used that to drill a long 1/8" diameter hole through each caul. I used a drill guide to make sure the long drill bit stayed straight through the 3 inch thick caul. This way if my 3/8 drill bit did not punch through the caul I would have a good mark on the opposite side in order to complete the drill hole. As it turned out by mounting the drill bit long enough in my drill press I was able to physically lift the caul to complete the drill hole, punching it through the opposite side.

With all holes drilled, I used a rag to rub paste wax on all surfaces and ends of the cauls.

I have to admit that drilling 32 holes in each end of these cauls became tiresome work, but I stayed on the task. Now I have three set of six cauls measuring 28 inches, 38 inches and 44 inches so I can glue dead flat table tops of 24, 30, and 36 inches wide.

The 8 inch long 5/16 inch bolts will be used to keep the approximately 30 inch wide glue up of the table top flat. I have used Bowclamp's cambered cauls for a dresser top. That was not as wide a project as this one. I suspect I will have at least 30 inch wide table top to glue. I will trim it to final dimension of 27 inches later in this trestle table project.

My next step will be to glue up my table top. Stay tuned for a review on how well tese caul work for that glue up.

 

[NormG]

Complete Cambered Cauls

After using my planer yesterday to cut the cambered ends, I drilled holes two inches in from the ends of each caul. I selected a 3/8" drill bit in order to easily fit the 5/16 diameter bolts I purchased yesterday. Besides laying the bolt on my bench and testing the thickness of a 5/16" and a 3/8" drill bit along side the bolt, I also drilled a test hole in a scrap board. I selected my 3/8 inch drill bit for my cambered cauls.

After marking a line two inches in from each end, I also used my combination square to determine and mark the halfway mark on the cambered edge. I pushed a starter hole with my scratch awl used that to drill a long 1/8" diameter hole through each caul. I used a drill guide to make sure the long drill bit stayed straight through the 3 inch thick caul. This way if my 3/8 drill bit did not punch through the caul I would have a good mark on the opposite side in order to complete the drill hole. As it turned out by mounting the drill bit long enough in my drill press I was able to physically lift the caul to complete the drill hole, punching it through the opposite side.

With all holes drilled, I used a rag to rub paste wax on all surfaces and ends of the cauls.

I have to admit that drilling 32 holes in each end of these cauls became tiresome work, but I stayed on the task. Now I have three set of six cauls measuring 28 inches, 38 inches and 44 inches so I can glue dead flat table tops of 24, 30, and 36 inches wide.

The 8 inch long 5/16 inch bolts will be used to keep the approximately 30 inch wide glue up of the table top flat. I have used Bowclamp's cambered cauls for a dresser top. That was not as wide a project as this one. I suspect I will have at least 30 inch wide table top to glue. I will trim it to final dimension of 27 inches later in this trestle table project.

My next step will be to glue up my table top. Stay tuned for a review on how well tese caul work for that glue up.

Well done, I am sure they will be very useful in glue ups

 

[HappyHowie]

Complete Cambered Cauls

After using my planer yesterday to cut the cambered ends, I drilled holes two inches in from the ends of each caul. I selected a 3/8" drill bit in order to easily fit the 5/16 diameter bolts I purchased yesterday. Besides laying the bolt on my bench and testing the thickness of a 5/16" and a 3/8" drill bit along side the bolt, I also drilled a test hole in a scrap board. I selected my 3/8 inch drill bit for my cambered cauls.

After marking a line two inches in from each end, I also used my combination square to determine and mark the halfway mark on the cambered edge. I pushed a starter hole with my scratch awl used that to drill a long 1/8" diameter hole through each caul. I used a drill guide to make sure the long drill bit stayed straight through the 3 inch thick caul. This way if my 3/8 drill bit did not punch through the caul I would have a good mark on the opposite side in order to complete the drill hole. As it turned out by mounting the drill bit long enough in my drill press I was able to physically lift the caul to complete the drill hole, punching it through the opposite side.

With all holes drilled, I used a rag to rub paste wax on all surfaces and ends of the cauls.

I have to admit that drilling 32 holes in each end of these cauls became tiresome work, but I stayed on the task. Now I have three set of six cauls measuring 28 inches, 38 inches and 44 inches so I can glue dead flat table tops of 24, 30, and 36 inches wide.

The 8 inch long 5/16 inch bolts will be used to keep the approximately 30 inch wide glue up of the table top flat. I have used Bowclamp's cambered cauls for a dresser top. That was not as wide a project as this one. I suspect I will have at least 30 inch wide table top to glue. I will trim it to final dimension of 27 inches later in this trestle table project.

My next step will be to glue up my table top. Stay tuned for a review on how well tese caul work for that glue up.

Thanks. I write here in this on how well it went. That should be in a day or two.

 

[HappyHowie]

Mortise Plunge Router JIGs

Since I am following a Gary Rogowski trestle table plan for its dimensions, I will follow or use his method for routing mortises in the trestle legs. He uses a simple jig for plunging mortises with his router. I will make these jigs today. So I could either make the trestle leg assemblies or prepare and glue my table top. I don't know yet what I will build beyond the jigs. I will see how it goes. I may need to purchase a special sized router bit. If so, then I will be making a trip to my Woodcraft store. I don't want to wait for an online purchase to be delivered.

Note: Although I have inserted below links to the Fine Woodworking workshop and articles, you will need an online membership in order to view these links. Gary's article is in Fine Woodworking Magazine #214 September 2010 publication.

Well I reviewed Gary's workshop video on FineWoodworking.com. I purchased the full size plans long ago so I could also make the templates for the curves on the feet, columns, etc. However, my stretcher will not have the curves he made in his video. I and my Ann do not like that look. I have it with straight lines, but maybe chamfer the edges with my spokeshave. We will see.

For my table top I am hoping my glue up will retain most of the thickness of my milled parts. Currently that is 13/16 inches thick. If so I will test in a scrap piece the chance to cut curves in the table top like Daniel Chaffin did in his FWW magazine article in issue #235 September 2013.

I have included the photo below to illustrate the edge curves I hope to place in my table top. You can see how well Daniel Chaffin shaped his table top's edge curve by the light shining from it in this well done photo. This photo was taken by Matt Kenney for Fine Woodworking Magazine.

I guess I have plans that are iffy. I will proceed with a goal and act on them as the materials and my skills (or lack of them) will let me.

 

[HappyHowie]

Glue-up Trestle Table Top

I performed a full dry glue-up test for this table top. This test included the clamping cauls I made. It became obvious that a 7 or 7 1/2 length bolt would have been ideal, or use of more washer. Instead I broke out my tap and die set to add more 5/16"-18 threads to each bolt.

Once the bolts were ready I did a full dry fit.

I trimmed the length of the two long boards on my table saw.

I jointed the edges of each board so I would get dead-on flat panles; I alternate the surfaces either up against the jointer fence or away from it. I follow an instruction by Fine Woodworking Magazine shown on YouTube.

I wish I would have gotten a much flatter panel, but this will do.

 

[HappyHowie]

Mortise JIGs

This will be my first time to use guide bushings to plunge route mortises. My mortises will be 3/8" wide. The guide bushing I will be using is a 3/4 inch diameter. There will be two mortises made in the trestle feet and one motise into the underside of the cap.