No kidding…very sweet joinery going down!Top Panel and mitered dovetails
I thought I wood try my 45 for making the top panel. Now I fully understand Roy Underhill's and Patrick Leach's comments and concerns regarding the 45. While it is a versatile lane. It does not do well when the grain is interlocked and/or the wood is hard. Coupled with the narrowness of this stock. It was not looking good.
So, time to burn some electrons.
The down side of power tools are:
adequate time for testing
you make mistakes faster.
I did not spend enough time testing the setup and it wound up blowing out part of the panel.
Fortunately the panel was longer than I needed so I was able to trim this off adjust the setup test again and redo the cut.
I used the same setup to cut the dadoes in the top an bottom of the box sides.
You can see in the photo above that I also started on the dovetails. Of note are the scribe marks on the right side of the panel running along the face of the front panel. Those marks delineate the kerf of the table saw blade that will be used to separate the top of the box (right side of line)
I positioned the front and back pieces together and cut the dovetails at the same time. To ensure the opposite sides were lined up correctly I flipped the board and used the same kerfs as a guide. Note the orientation of the dadoes
Waste was cleared as usual for dovetails (Not doing a DT tutorial here)
Marks tranfered to pin side and saw cuts made. Here is where things get interesting and deviation from normal dove tails begins to show up.
The saw cuts need to be performed on miter as the waste is removed on a miter. Hence mitered dove tail.
Mitering the waste removal will leave a nice mitered corner on the top and bottom of each peace.
I used a mitered piece of stock to serve as a miter jack and guide my chisel in the waste removal.
One down, three to go. You can see I'll need to adjust the top and bottom panels as well.
Thanks for sharing the photos, Terry…
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