[KnotCurser]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

 

[Celticscroller]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Great blog Bob. Very clear instructions for a neat project. Looking forward to the next process.

 

[degoose]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Good so far… waiting for the next instalment…thanks for taking the time to post this.

 

[oldnovice]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

This is interesting stuff! Can't wait to see ow this turns out.
I remember doing something similar with "silly putty"!
I don't remember, did you state this does not work on color?

How did you develop (pardon the pun) this process?

 

[scrollgirl]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Great posting Bob! Thanks for sharing the information with everyone. I am sure lots of people will enjoy doing this!

Sheila

 

[KnotCurser]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

oldnovice,

As I stated above, color images work just fine as long as they come from a color laser printer.

To figure out the process, I first did a LOT of research on google, wiki and youtube. Then, it was a matter of trial and error. I am also using color images currently for a project for myself which I will post when finished - these use gesso, which leaves a matt, white background instead of a clear one.

Cheers!

-bob

 

[Buckethead]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

I'd recommend a doctor visit. You are displaying the classic symptoms of stickittothemanitosis.

(A movie reference: "School of Rock" ... You kids might be too young to remember it)

 

[Kentuk55]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Gr8 timing on this. Thnx for the "how-to"

 

[apbeachy]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Thanks for posting this how to. Can't wait to try it

 

[KnotCurser]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Actually, Buckethead, I recognized it instantly! Jack Black is the MAN!

I just posted the 2nd part of this blog - the final chapter, if you will…..........

Enjoy!

-bob

 

[DIYaholic]

Day One - Prep Work & Stickin It To the Man!

Due to a recent project I've posted, I have been asked by many LJ'ers to do a blog on just how I was able to get such a clear image fixed onto a piece of oak. Here goes nothing….........

Items Required

An Image (flipped horizontally) printed on a LASER Printer. It can be color or B&W - either work just fine in this application.

Paper - Regular copy paper works just fine. Do NOT use photo paper - it will most certainly not work.

Wood - I prefer a light colored hardwood. White Oak, Birch, Maple or even Poplar works well for this application.

Gel Medium - There are many out there. I happened to find a product by Liquitex called Matte Gel Medium - this 8 oz. container was a tad over $15. I am guessing you will get at least 6 large images out of the container.

Paint brush - any will work, but I chose a 1 ½ brush. It cleans up with just soap and water so don't worry about destroying it.

Something to flatten/smooth with. I use a paint scraper, but you can even use a credit card. I understand others use a roller (brayer), but I like the scraper the best.

Clear coat finish - I use a spray lacquer, but just about any clear finish will work. This is pretty much required as it seals the image as well as hiding all the leftover paper, as you will see later.

Now, Let's get to work…...........

For this transfer, I picked a nice piece of oak and an image of the Baltimore Orioles / Natty Boh Guy taken from an old sign I saw for sale in Baltimore.

I also chose to use a Black & White image, and used my graphics program to flip it horizontally before printing it.

Remember - only a LASER printed image will work for this! If you don't have access to one, go to a copy center (Kinko's for example) and have them make you a few copies. It's only a few cents per copy.

The oak was rough cut, so I ran it through my planer and sanded it smooth.

Although you don't need to, I chose to trim the image down to just what was needed as there is less work to do later.

I then tested the placement before I began spreading the medium.

Spread the gel out in a nice, thin coat - I used about two glops (see below image) for this image. You will be tempted to put on a nice thick coat, but it isn't needed and it makes things more messy and difficult to accomplish.

Smooth the medium with the grain of the wood - you don't have to have it perfect at this stage.

Apply the image, face side down of course, to the wood and smooth with the tool of your choice.

Be careful not to push down with your fingertips as I have left "divots" in the medium doing this.

Smooth over the image until it is adhered very well - you will probably squeeze out some of the gel and that's just fine. Don't press too hard though - you have to leave some gel under your image for this to work.

Once smoothed really flat, go over the wood again with the paintbrush to smooth out the gel.

Try not to get a bunch of gel on the back of the paper - this will make finishing much more of a chore! Getting a tad around the edges is OK though.

Now the hard part - you have to let this thing dry! Overnight is best - don't worry about walking away from this for days or even weeks though.

This looks like a great place to end this part of my blog so…...........

Until later, BYE!

Stay tuned….......

-bob

Favorited(?)!

Need I say more!!

Thanks!!!

 

[KnotCurser]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

 

[KnotCurser]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

One other thing I forgot to mention - try not to rinse all that paper down your sink! It will do bad thing in your pipes, and nobody wants that!

-bob

 

[degoose]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Very cool procedure… and your blog was very informative…

 

[DIYaholic]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Great write-up!
Explained soooooooo well…..
I think even I could successfully do this!!!

Thanks for taking the time to blog this procedure!

 

[SPalm]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Neat. Thanks.
Go Natty Boh.

Steve

 

[flintbone]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Nice and easy to follow information. Thanks Bob.
flint

 

[Celticscroller]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Great blog Bob. This is definitely worth a try.

 

[robscastle]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Well I know Titebond II does not work!

Fail

So it was off to the The Art Factory 274 Montague Rd for some Derivan Matisse Gel Medium and try again !
$14.00
02 9736-2022
www.derivavn.com.au

 

[Kentuk55]

The Dirty Work & The Big Payoff!

Okay, you have waited overnight (at least) and are now ready to continue…....

The image has now dried and all the medium has gone perfectly clear.

If you noticed the change in scenery, we are now in my kitchen at the sink.

Get the water running pretty warm and then totally soak the image - that's right SOAK IT!

Let the water sit on top of the wood until the paper actually absorbs it and then put a tad more on.

Now, take your thumb and, gently at first, start rubbing the paper in one direction until it starts to roll up and part company with the image underneath. I generally start in the center and work my way to the edges. Keep applying water when the paper starts to dry out. Don't try to get every bit of paper off on this attempt - just the easy stuff.

Now, once all the "slag" is off, go back and use your finger tips in a circular motion to start getting some of the tougher bits off. Don't rub too hard or you will start removing the image itself! Also, don't go too long or the image will start to soften. When you have most of it off, dry it off with a paper towel and put it down to dry for a few hours.

Here's what it will probably look like when it dries - not too nice yet….........

Once again, go to the sink and this time only wet your fingertips and get the spots that remain - if you wish, you can now experiment with adding a touch more pressure at certain places to remove some of the image for that aged look.

You should only get a small amount off - don't worry about getting every last little bit - it isn't needed.

Once again, dry it off and let it dry.

Here's what it will look like - still, not the greatest, eh?

Now, for the big payoff! Change of scenery again - back in the shop…....

Intermission: Here is where you can take a piece of sandpaper and roughen up or blend in the edges of your image. Make it look aged, etc…. I most certainly did this with my first image, but this one I chose to only go with what I rubbed off during the cleanup process.

Back to the show…........

Take your clearcoat and spray (or brush I suppose) a coat over the entire surface of the wood.

Instantly, as if by magic, all the white blotches disappear and out pops a brilliant, crisp and clear image!

I'm going to attache a picture hanger on the rear of this one and hang it up at work - I am pretty sure I'll sell it to somebody in the next week or so.

I hope you enjoyed this two-part thriller and please feel free to let me know how this goes for you, should you decide to give it a shot! Also, I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have - good luck!!!!

Cheers, and GO O's!

-b0b

Nice blog bob. I'll have to give it a try one o these days.