Doesnt matter how you achieve results that please you, if your happy with the results thats all that matters.
Track Saw as Jointer Technique
Edit: Silly me for thinking this was some kind of novel idea, but…...
This works for me. YMMV
For the last 3 tables I have made that require jointing I have gotten the best results with my track saw. Wrestling those boards onto a jointer is no fun and doesn't always yield the best results, however, my $100 WEN track saw does surprisingly well.
I clamp the tracks down on the very edge taking the smallest of material off. It can be done in one pass on 2" thick stock. Without doing anything other than sliding the saw back down the rails I butt the next board against the one I just cut. Making sure that the new board isn't going to move I just run the saw back down the same track and it cuts a perfect companion cut to the first. If you leave a 32nd-inch gap you can cut a 2" thick board in one pass as you're only cutting a very small amount of wood. As you can imagine it compensates for any minute difference in blade angle.
This works for me. YMMV
For the last 3 tables I have made that require jointing I have gotten the best results with my track saw. Wrestling those boards onto a jointer is no fun and doesn't always yield the best results, however, my $100 WEN track saw does surprisingly well.
I clamp the tracks down on the very edge taking the smallest of material off. It can be done in one pass on 2" thick stock. Without doing anything other than sliding the saw back down the rails I butt the next board against the one I just cut. Making sure that the new board isn't going to move I just run the saw back down the same track and it cuts a perfect companion cut to the first. If you leave a 32nd-inch gap you can cut a 2" thick board in one pass as you're only cutting a very small amount of wood. As you can imagine it compensates for any minute difference in blade angle.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
I have done the same and found it works well. I have done one at a time as you describe or both at the same time if the fit is close and just needs some cleanup to make a tight joint.
It probably works even better doing both at a time. I just worry as my WEN saw will shut down if asked to work too hard and those shutdowns are usually where any imperfections are. Although, when it does shut down I have found the imperfection limited if I back the saw off a few inches, plunge then continue forward.I have done the same and found it works well. I have done one at a time as you describe or both at the same time if the fit is close and just needs some cleanup to make a tight joint.
- gtrgeo
A perfect kerfed joint. Seems like a great solution.
That's an excellent solution that yields very good results.
Scribed with a tracksaw.
Leaving a gap is a good idea. When I did it years ago with just a circ saw and strait edge I had them tight. 2×4's. I figured soft woods would compress any bumps in glue-up. Came out OK.
Known in Japan as "suriawase"
Google at "suriawase wood" and look at the pictures.
You will see people mating two boards by passing a (hand) saw between them.
One has to leave a small gap between them (smaller then the saw set; about the plate thickness) and saw gently to avoid deviations.
Using multiple saws (gross → fine) will give better results.
The beauty of this technique is that it is not limited to straight lines. (see mating the side to the bottom of the boat)
note: the two edges will not necessarily be straight and square to the faces but the edge mating will be perfect.
Google at "suriawase wood" and look at the pictures.
You will see people mating two boards by passing a (hand) saw between them.
One has to leave a small gap between them (smaller then the saw set; about the plate thickness) and saw gently to avoid deviations.
Using multiple saws (gross → fine) will give better results.
The beauty of this technique is that it is not limited to straight lines. (see mating the side to the bottom of the boat)
note: the two edges will not necessarily be straight and square to the faces but the edge mating will be perfect.
Sounds like a great way to joint two boards but I am confused. If the track is clamped to the first board cut and you butt the next board to it, how do you keep the second board from moving during the cut?
I'm guessing that you would clamp it down to the same base as the first piece. You wouldn't want to clamp the two pieces together because that would be a disaster (pinching) even with a riving knife.Sounds like a great way to joint two boards but I am confused. If the track is clamped to the first board cut and you butt the next board to it, how do you keep the second board from moving during the cut?
- controlfreak
Yeah in thinking about this "how would I?" I am thinking a large saw bench to secure both boards relative to each other but a gap to allow the saw blade to pass. I might be able to make a jig to ride on top on my bench.Sounds like a great way to joint two boards but I am confused. If the track is clamped to the first board cut and you butt the next board to it, how do you keep the second board from moving during the cut?
- controlfreak
I m guessing that you would clamp it down to the same base as the first piece. You wouldn t want to clamp the two pieces together because that would be a disaster (pinching) even with a riving knife.
- northwoodsman
Actually, using the track saw, board movement wasn't an issue, especially with heavy boards. You're only taking 1/16" off of the edge which doesn't even come close to moving that board. I suppose you could clamp the boards down with a small gap between them.Sounds like a great way to joint two boards but I am confused. If the track is clamped to the first board cut and you butt the next board to it, how do you keep the second board from moving during the cut?
- controlfreak
I m guessing that you would clamp it down to the same base as the first piece. You wouldn t want to clamp the two pieces together because that would be a disaster (pinching) even with a riving knife.
- northwoodsman
Yeah in thinking about this "how would I?" I am thinking a large saw bench to secure both boards relative to each other but a gap to allow the saw blade to pass. I might be able to make a jig to ride on top on my bench.
- controlfreak
I'm not saying that I'm not going to ever use my jointer. It's just that with an 8' long 13" wide board it's just much much easier to bring the tool to the work vs the other way around. It's quite the time saver too. The work is laid out on the table ready to clamp. If you do it in one pass it's ridiculously quick and efficient.
When I have done it, I cut a couple strips of scrap plywood which are wider than the depth of the boards I am joining. I brad nailed the strips across the end of the joint between the two boards. Since the plywood strips are wider than the depth of the boards, I do not cut completely through them with the track saw. Your boards need to overhang the ends of your work surface to do this. Otherwise, clamping of both boards would be necessary.Sounds like a great way to joint two boards but I am confused. If the track is clamped to the first board cut and you butt the next board to it, how do you keep the second board from moving during the cut?
- controlfreak
I m guessing that you would clamp it down to the same base as the first piece. You wouldn t want to clamp the two pieces together because that would be a disaster (pinching) even with a riving knife.
- northwoodsman
When I do it they are all screwed down to a stretcher on both ends. Obviously before cutting to lengthSounds like a great way to joint two boards but I am confused. If the track is clamped to the first board cut and you butt the next board to it, how do you keep the second board from moving during the cut?
- controlfreak
The other issue that I think this fixes is when 2 track saw cuts don't quite make a seamless joint.
If you have 2 boards laying next to each other to be joined, if you cut them separately then you have to take the track off and put it on the other board and run it in the opposite direction. That makes it all the more likely that slight "off 90-degree" cuts won't mate properly.
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If you have 2 boards laying next to each other to be joined, if you cut them separately then you have to take the track off and put it on the other board and run it in the opposite direction. That makes it all the more likely that slight "off 90-degree" cuts won't mate properly.
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Similar technique is used when making mirror image cuts on formica sheets that need to be edge joined. In this case a router is used.
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