Tool Chest

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Design and Materials

Hello.

I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin.

I bought the book by Chris Schwarz "The Anarchist's Tool Chest" back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I thought it would be interesting and helpful. In his book he states that he wanted to write a book that he wished he had when he was 11 years old starting woodworking. He goes over the essential hand tools a starting woodworker will need, some non-essentials that are nice to have, and even the few machines that may be useful to the handtool woodworker. In the last part of his book he goes over the entire build of his new tool chest. He talks about how he came to its final design and construction and why it is built the way it is.

His book has helped me try to limit my selection of tools and stick with the basics. And after reading his book, and having worked in my shop for a few years, I have realized I need a tool chest. I often have a collection of saws, layout tools, and other important tools laying on top of my workbench collecting dust, dings, and chaos. So I recently read through the section of Chris' book on the tool chest again, to familiar myself with its design and function. I have looked at some other chests aswell, but find the tool chest of an anarchist to suit me best.

The anarchist's tool chest.

After going through the book again I made up my cut list and went down to my local lumber dealer, Exotic Woods http://www.exotic-woods.com/index.html. I picked up the white pine and white oak needed for the project. I got a great deal on ten 4/4" 12" wide by 6' long boards of white pine, free of knots and surfaced on two faces.

When I took the lumber back home, I went through laying out the parts for the chest, starting with the largest and most visible parts first. Then I cross cut and ripped the parts to rough size using my newly refurbished panel saws.

Now I have a stack of roughly sized parts awaiting the day I have the time to start the project. Just for kicks I am going to do the entire build using only hand tools. Being white pine even the heavy chores like ripping and thicknessing will be a breeze. The only part I am concerned about is resawing about 9+ feet of 5 1/2" wide white oak by hand. I may give in and use the bandsaw, or perhaps make the newly famous Roubo frame saw to cut it http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/01/episode-41-re-sawing-hand-tool-style/. Only time will tell.

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...

CartersWhittling said:

Starting the Shell

Hello.

I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest.

A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces.

Now a couple weeks after I have skip planed, the lumber has done its final "morphing", if it needed to.

Today I finished planing the parts to have them glued up.

First I laid out all the shell parts on the bench, and picked which pieces would be glued together to create each side of the chest. I marked on each board which direction to plane, so that I could match the boards according the grain direction.

These four parts will create the two long sides of the chest. I also matched the short sides up the same way.

I then began flattening one face of each board. Since I had skip planed previously to remove the warping, it was little work now to get each face flat. Because the pine is so soft you can get away with a slight twist or bend in a board. As long as you make sure the board is held straight when you lay out the dovetails, the joinery will pull any small bend out of the boards.

Use winding sticks to check for twist.

The far right is a tiny bit high, though the picture hardly shows it. Since it was so little, I didn't bother spending the time to remove it. (I have a strip of green tape on the stick in the back. My winding sticks are each 4' long, and can connect together to create a 8' straight edge. A very useful tool.)

I next jointed each edge that was going to get glued. I first used a scrub plane to remove the rough edge on each board, and get past any splintering that might have occured when I skip planed.

I then clamped two boards that were to be glued together, and book matched the edges. By planing the edges together (with a plane that has a straight iron), you do not have to have the edge square to the faces, the joints will still match creating a flat face across both boards.

When I make edge joints I often create a slight hollow in the centre, creating a spring joint. If your edges have that small hollow (paper thin), then when you apply clamps (particularly across the centre of the joint) you will close up the hollow creating a tight joint along the entire edge. No more gaps on either end of a joint.

So after each set of boards were planed try and true, I glued them up.

After each joint dried I cleaned up each face with a smooth plane. This surface will be the inside of the chest. I made sure that this was the prettier side, since the outside will be painted.

I also jointed and thickness the boards for the bottom of the chest, and glued up the panel for the lid.

By the end of the day I had all but one of the case sides glued up with one face smoothed. Tomorrow I will thickness the boards to about a heavy 3/4".

Click to expand...