I like this, it's real woodworking. It may not be fine woodworking but it's real woodworking born of necessity, ingenuity and creativity. In this craft there are levels I look at like fishing. A fly fisherman may need an expensive outfit, neoprene waders, and a Cabela's vest and such but the guy catching bream with a cane pole is every bit the fisherman he is. He's getting the job done and so are you.Tool chest, the corners get shaped
Time to cut some items into parts for the corners. Need four skinny, and four wider pieces. The "skinny" ones will gain the thickness of the parts they mate into, at the corner. Measured how much room i needed before making the foot cut out. Hmm, about 15" or so. The i found something round to layout a curve for the foot. Ah, an old dust port for a router. Then drew a line down from the circle, about 1" from the outside edge.![Automotive tire Wood Table Aluminum can Tin can]()
Then continued the line across to get at least some usable scrap. Clamped the part to the bench, using a couple H-F clamps![Table Wood Hardwood Outdoor furniture Lumber]()
and grabbed a sabresaw to make a cut, or two![Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Bumper]()
Not the most "modern" of saws, but works. Got the parts cut out, but noticed some were a bit wider than needed, so![Plane Scrub plane Wood Motor vehicle Rebate plane]()
Marked a line, and plane down to a line.![Wood Composite material Hardwood Lumber Plank]()
Now I have all pieces cut out. Next up….grooves! Hopefully it will go better than the last time…
Tool chest or blanket chest?
Tool chest, the corners get shaped
Time to cut some items into parts for the corners. Need four skinny, and four wider pieces. The "skinny" ones will gain the thickness of the parts they mate into, at the corner. Measured how much room i needed before making the foot cut out. Hmm, about 15" or so. The i found something round to layout a curve for the foot. Ah, an old dust port for a router. Then drew a line down from the circle, about 1" from the outside edge.
![Automotive tire Wood Table Aluminum can Tin can]()
Then continued the line across to get at least some usable scrap. Clamped the part to the bench, using a couple H-F clamps
![Table Wood Hardwood Outdoor furniture Lumber]()
and grabbed a sabresaw to make a cut, or two
![Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Bumper]()
Not the most "modern" of saws, but works. Got the parts cut out, but noticed some were a bit wider than needed, so
![Plane Scrub plane Wood Motor vehicle Rebate plane]()
Marked a line, and plane down to a line.
![Wood Composite material Hardwood Lumber Plank]()
Now I have all pieces cut out. Next up….grooves! Hopefully it will go better than the last time…
Time to cut some items into parts for the corners. Need four skinny, and four wider pieces. The "skinny" ones will gain the thickness of the parts they mate into, at the corner. Measured how much room i needed before making the foot cut out. Hmm, about 15" or so. The i found something round to layout a curve for the foot. Ah, an old dust port for a router. Then drew a line down from the circle, about 1" from the outside edge.
Then continued the line across to get at least some usable scrap. Clamped the part to the bench, using a couple H-F clamps
and grabbed a sabresaw to make a cut, or two
Not the most "modern" of saws, but works. Got the parts cut out, but noticed some were a bit wider than needed, so
Marked a line, and plane down to a line.
Now I have all pieces cut out. Next up….grooves! Hopefully it will go better than the last time…
Attachments
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
I missed this blog series….Tool chest, the corners get shaped
Time to cut some items into parts for the corners. Need four skinny, and four wider pieces. The "skinny" ones will gain the thickness of the parts they mate into, at the corner. Measured how much room i needed before making the foot cut out. Hmm, about 15" or so. The i found something round to layout a curve for the foot. Ah, an old dust port for a router. Then drew a line down from the circle, about 1" from the outside edge.![Automotive tire Wood Table Aluminum can Tin can]()
Then continued the line across to get at least some usable scrap. Clamped the part to the bench, using a couple H-F clamps![Table Wood Hardwood Outdoor furniture Lumber]()
and grabbed a sabresaw to make a cut, or two![Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Bumper]()
Not the most "modern" of saws, but works. Got the parts cut out, but noticed some were a bit wider than needed, so![Plane Scrub plane Wood Motor vehicle Rebate plane]()
Marked a line, and plane down to a line.![Wood Composite material Hardwood Lumber Plank]()
Now I have all pieces cut out. Next up….grooves! Hopefully it will go better than the last time…
I think I was either plowing during a storm….
Or fell asleep, due to the lack of Mountain Dew….
Is that MY Mountain Dew???
Attachments
WAS…Tool chest, the corners get shaped
Time to cut some items into parts for the corners. Need four skinny, and four wider pieces. The "skinny" ones will gain the thickness of the parts they mate into, at the corner. Measured how much room i needed before making the foot cut out. Hmm, about 15" or so. The i found something round to layout a curve for the foot. Ah, an old dust port for a router. Then drew a line down from the circle, about 1" from the outside edge.![Automotive tire Wood Table Aluminum can Tin can]()
Then continued the line across to get at least some usable scrap. Clamped the part to the bench, using a couple H-F clamps![Table Wood Hardwood Outdoor furniture Lumber]()
and grabbed a sabresaw to make a cut, or two![Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Bumper]()
Not the most "modern" of saws, but works. Got the parts cut out, but noticed some were a bit wider than needed, so![Plane Scrub plane Wood Motor vehicle Rebate plane]()
Marked a line, and plane down to a line.![Wood Composite material Hardwood Lumber Plank]()
Now I have all pieces cut out. Next up….grooves! Hopefully it will go better than the last time…
Attachments
tool chest or blanket ? #2
Got back down to the Dungeon Shop, figured it was time to hand plane some parts smooth. That way, I can reference off the pieces better. Corner posts were first up. Set up a bench hook of sorts. More of a plane stop. Added a piece of thin scrap to one side, square to the end cleat. Placed the first piece in, and added a screw to keep things tight.
![Wood Plank Composite material Wood stain Beam]()
Plane stop itself is screwed down through the scrap pieces, as well. Won't bother the bench's top, anyway. Planed the face of each corner post with a jack plane first, to get rid of the rough sawn look. Then a few swipes with a smoother to shine it up
![Automotive tire Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior]()
Even the knots looked better. Once the corner posts were all smooth, I moved on to the dividers, as they were a might rough too. Got to be a little crowded on the bench, though
![Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood]()
Moved all of these off the bench, and the plane stop. Had more saw work to do. Much like before, I planed one edge straight and square, and marked a cut line. Circular to make the cut. Then hand plane to makes things straighter.
Some needed a bit more work than others
![Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Composite material]()
Not exactly the straightest of edges.. Got a few sawn, and spent a little time planing the edges
![Wood Office ruler Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle]()
Top two pieces were done, still had to cut the next two. Once a board was cut, it was clamped into the Crochet
![Wood Machine tool Gas Hardwood Wood stain]()
and the sawn edge cleaned up. That C clamp is just for the board to rest on. A small hammer drives the board into the Crochet to make it clamp up. Right now, cutting pieces for the rails/stiles ( the horizontal pieces ) for the front and back. Still have to made some raised panels, too. The back of this chest will be out of pine, not enough Walnut for it, if I want a decent top, too. Pine floor for the chest as well.
Need to start making some tenons as well, so I can start glue-ups. One thing about all this hand plane work, it is a CARDIO WORKOUT! Couple of hours, and it gets a bit rough to go back upstairs. WHEW!!
Got back down to the Dungeon Shop, figured it was time to hand plane some parts smooth. That way, I can reference off the pieces better. Corner posts were first up. Set up a bench hook of sorts. More of a plane stop. Added a piece of thin scrap to one side, square to the end cleat. Placed the first piece in, and added a screw to keep things tight.
Plane stop itself is screwed down through the scrap pieces, as well. Won't bother the bench's top, anyway. Planed the face of each corner post with a jack plane first, to get rid of the rough sawn look. Then a few swipes with a smoother to shine it up
Even the knots looked better. Once the corner posts were all smooth, I moved on to the dividers, as they were a might rough too. Got to be a little crowded on the bench, though
Moved all of these off the bench, and the plane stop. Had more saw work to do. Much like before, I planed one edge straight and square, and marked a cut line. Circular to make the cut. Then hand plane to makes things straighter.
Some needed a bit more work than others
Not exactly the straightest of edges.. Got a few sawn, and spent a little time planing the edges
Top two pieces were done, still had to cut the next two. Once a board was cut, it was clamped into the Crochet
and the sawn edge cleaned up. That C clamp is just for the board to rest on. A small hammer drives the board into the Crochet to make it clamp up. Right now, cutting pieces for the rails/stiles ( the horizontal pieces ) for the front and back. Still have to made some raised panels, too. The back of this chest will be out of pine, not enough Walnut for it, if I want a decent top, too. Pine floor for the chest as well.
Need to start making some tenons as well, so I can start glue-ups. One thing about all this hand plane work, it is a CARDIO WORKOUT! Couple of hours, and it gets a bit rough to go back upstairs. WHEW!!
Attachments
It's gonna be a nice 'en! Keep at it and share.tool chest or blanket ? #2
Got back down to the Dungeon Shop, figured it was time to hand plane some parts smooth. That way, I can reference off the pieces better. Corner posts were first up. Set up a bench hook of sorts. More of a plane stop. Added a piece of thin scrap to one side, square to the end cleat. Placed the first piece in, and added a screw to keep things tight.![Wood Plank Composite material Wood stain Beam]()
Plane stop itself is screwed down through the scrap pieces, as well. Won't bother the bench's top, anyway. Planed the face of each corner post with a jack plane first, to get rid of the rough sawn look. Then a few swipes with a smoother to shine it up![Automotive tire Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior]()
Even the knots looked better. Once the corner posts were all smooth, I moved on to the dividers, as they were a might rough too. Got to be a little crowded on the bench, though![Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood]()
Moved all of these off the bench, and the plane stop. Had more saw work to do. Much like before, I planed one edge straight and square, and marked a cut line. Circular to make the cut. Then hand plane to makes things straighter.
Some needed a bit more work than others![Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Composite material]()
Not exactly the straightest of edges.. Got a few sawn, and spent a little time planing the edges![Wood Office ruler Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle]()
Top two pieces were done, still had to cut the next two. Once a board was cut, it was clamped into the Crochet![Wood Machine tool Gas Hardwood Wood stain]()
and the sawn edge cleaned up. That C clamp is just for the board to rest on. A small hammer drives the board into the Crochet to make it clamp up. Right now, cutting pieces for the rails/stiles ( the horizontal pieces ) for the front and back. Still have to made some raised panels, too. The back of this chest will be out of pine, not enough Walnut for it, if I want a decent top, too. Pine floor for the chest as well.
Need to start making some tenons as well, so I can start glue-ups. One thing about all this hand plane work, it is a CARDIO WORKOUT! Couple of hours, and it gets a bit rough to go back upstairs. WHEW!!
Attachments
A lot of work there!tool chest or blanket ? #2
Got back down to the Dungeon Shop, figured it was time to hand plane some parts smooth. That way, I can reference off the pieces better. Corner posts were first up. Set up a bench hook of sorts. More of a plane stop. Added a piece of thin scrap to one side, square to the end cleat. Placed the first piece in, and added a screw to keep things tight.![Wood Plank Composite material Wood stain Beam]()
Plane stop itself is screwed down through the scrap pieces, as well. Won't bother the bench's top, anyway. Planed the face of each corner post with a jack plane first, to get rid of the rough sawn look. Then a few swipes with a smoother to shine it up![Automotive tire Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior]()
Even the knots looked better. Once the corner posts were all smooth, I moved on to the dividers, as they were a might rough too. Got to be a little crowded on the bench, though![Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood]()
Moved all of these off the bench, and the plane stop. Had more saw work to do. Much like before, I planed one edge straight and square, and marked a cut line. Circular to make the cut. Then hand plane to makes things straighter.
Some needed a bit more work than others![Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Composite material]()
Not exactly the straightest of edges.. Got a few sawn, and spent a little time planing the edges![Wood Office ruler Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle]()
Top two pieces were done, still had to cut the next two. Once a board was cut, it was clamped into the Crochet![Wood Machine tool Gas Hardwood Wood stain]()
and the sawn edge cleaned up. That C clamp is just for the board to rest on. A small hammer drives the board into the Crochet to make it clamp up. Right now, cutting pieces for the rails/stiles ( the horizontal pieces ) for the front and back. Still have to made some raised panels, too. The back of this chest will be out of pine, not enough Walnut for it, if I want a decent top, too. Pine floor for the chest as well.
Need to start making some tenons as well, so I can start glue-ups. One thing about all this hand plane work, it is a CARDIO WORKOUT! Couple of hours, and it gets a bit rough to go back upstairs. WHEW!!
I can understand the "WHEW!!"
I didn't see any of my Mountain Dews in the pictures….
May be more Dews & less WHEWS!!!
Attachments
end panel
Test fits of the end panels, not going so well. Lots of gaps. Had to go back and re-do a few things. Couple cuts were even out of square. What I get for rushing things.
![Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Engineering Machine]()
Reset the corded router, with the "right" bit, a 3/8" straight cutter. reset the fence to be a wee bit more in the center of the board's edge. Ran all the grooves through, again. But, at least things are now set up for the front and back panels. Checked the raised panels, yep, they were off a bit as well. Clamped them up in a vise, grabbed a block plane and reworked the edges. Some were rounded a bit, they are now flat. Some had high spots along an edge, not anymore. One had a little bit of out of squareness to one end. Shot the edge until square.
Had a few tenons to cut, to the new size. Less saw work, and less work with a chisel to pare them flat. Tenons were to be 1/4" thick, now are 3/8" thick . I just saw down until the groove is even with the bottom of the saw's teeth line. Then a chisel to knock off the waste. Pare to the saw kerf.
Test fit as i went. When I had enough parts to clamp one panel up, into the clamps it went. Then onto the floor, needed to clear the bench top for the next parts. test fit as I went, again. Both end panels are about ready for a glue up. There is still some gaps, small ones. A little sawdust and some glue to fix that up.
Test fits of the end panels, not going so well. Lots of gaps. Had to go back and re-do a few things. Couple cuts were even out of square. What I get for rushing things.
Reset the corded router, with the "right" bit, a 3/8" straight cutter. reset the fence to be a wee bit more in the center of the board's edge. Ran all the grooves through, again. But, at least things are now set up for the front and back panels. Checked the raised panels, yep, they were off a bit as well. Clamped them up in a vise, grabbed a block plane and reworked the edges. Some were rounded a bit, they are now flat. Some had high spots along an edge, not anymore. One had a little bit of out of squareness to one end. Shot the edge until square.
Had a few tenons to cut, to the new size. Less saw work, and less work with a chisel to pare them flat. Tenons were to be 1/4" thick, now are 3/8" thick . I just saw down until the groove is even with the bottom of the saw's teeth line. Then a chisel to knock off the waste. Pare to the saw kerf.
Test fit as i went. When I had enough parts to clamp one panel up, into the clamps it went. Then onto the floor, needed to clear the bench top for the next parts. test fit as I went, again. Both end panels are about ready for a glue up. There is still some gaps, small ones. A little sawdust and some glue to fix that up.
Attachments
I'm not use to seeing an electron killer….end panel
Test fits of the end panels, not going so well. Lots of gaps. Had to go back and re-do a few things. Couple cuts were even out of square. What I get for rushing things.![Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Engineering Machine]()
Reset the corded router, with the "right" bit, a 3/8" straight cutter. reset the fence to be a wee bit more in the center of the board's edge. Ran all the grooves through, again. But, at least things are now set up for the front and back panels. Checked the raised panels, yep, they were off a bit as well. Clamped them up in a vise, grabbed a block plane and reworked the edges. Some were rounded a bit, they are now flat. Some had high spots along an edge, not anymore. One had a little bit of out of squareness to one end. Shot the edge until square.
Had a few tenons to cut, to the new size. Less saw work, and less work with a chisel to pare them flat. Tenons were to be 1/4" thick, now are 3/8" thick . I just saw down until the groove is even with the bottom of the saw's teeth line. Then a chisel to knock off the waste. Pare to the saw kerf.
Test fit as i went. When I had enough parts to clamp one panel up, into the clamps it went. Then onto the floor, needed to clear the bench top for the next parts. test fit as I went, again. Both end panels are about ready for a glue up. There is still some gaps, small ones. A little sawdust and some glue to fix that up.
Nor are there any Mountain Dews in the picture!
Are you feeling OK???
Attachments
Drank all the Dews in the house, cans are now being recycled…end panel
Test fits of the end panels, not going so well. Lots of gaps. Had to go back and re-do a few things. Couple cuts were even out of square. What I get for rushing things.![Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Engineering Machine]()
Reset the corded router, with the "right" bit, a 3/8" straight cutter. reset the fence to be a wee bit more in the center of the board's edge. Ran all the grooves through, again. But, at least things are now set up for the front and back panels. Checked the raised panels, yep, they were off a bit as well. Clamped them up in a vise, grabbed a block plane and reworked the edges. Some were rounded a bit, they are now flat. Some had high spots along an edge, not anymore. One had a little bit of out of squareness to one end. Shot the edge until square.
Had a few tenons to cut, to the new size. Less saw work, and less work with a chisel to pare them flat. Tenons were to be 1/4" thick, now are 3/8" thick . I just saw down until the groove is even with the bottom of the saw's teeth line. Then a chisel to knock off the waste. Pare to the saw kerf.
Test fit as i went. When I had enough parts to clamp one panel up, into the clamps it went. Then onto the floor, needed to clear the bench top for the next parts. test fit as I went, again. Both end panels are about ready for a glue up. There is still some gaps, small ones. A little sawdust and some glue to fix that up.
Attachments
Glue-ups!
Getting things put together, Finally!! Sides have been "fixed", front and back panels are done. Needed to drill some counter-bored pilot holes to assemble the sides to the front and back. Small forstner bit for a counter bore in the Drill press. Haul the slab of the front to the press, go to drill the first hole….table tilts! So, dig through the tool boxes, find the right sized wrench, and tilting table tilts no more. Got the front and backs drilled, time for some glue and screws
![Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain Composite material]()
Here are the holes, about 3/8" diameter. Plugs will show up, later. Got the sides screwed to the front panel, and then added the rear panel
![Wood Gas Machine Hardwood Plywood]()
The long clamp on top is to pull the case square. Almost too big for the bench. Might as well sit this on the shop floor, and work on something else. Had a couple wide pine boards, cut them to the length to fit into the bottom of the chest. Already had 1×2 cleats for the bottom to be screwed to, so
![Wood Plant Wood stain Varnish Plank]()
A few #6×1" screws, no glue to add a bottom to the chest. There is an air-gap in the middle. More to allow expansion, and a way for any dust to leave. Had ONE more walnut plank in the shop. Cut it into three 4/4 by 6" by 28" boards. Very rough-sawn stuff. Lots of knots and dippity-dos aka cup. Laid them out to test the fit
![Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Outdoor bench Wood stain]()
Yep, very rough boards. So, grabbed a few hand planes and worked on the boards. Trying to get the edges straight ( yeah, right) and square. Used a big, old Stanley #31 Jointer plane. I will later have to work on it's iron, way too many knots. Got the three edges done, almost. ONE lousy edge has a serious area that will likely be a "Design Feature". Would have to plane away too much good wood to make that little area smooth.
Started on the faces of the boards. I have a "plane stop jig" made up to plane faces on. Just a slab of particle board with a cleat as a stop, plus a lower cleat to rest against the end of the workbench, one screw through the top cleat is a bit long. It is to go through the jig, and into the benchtop. With the lower cleat tight against the bench, screw the jig down. THEN I can lay a board on the jig, and plane away. Used a few Jack planes to scrub the roughness off the faces. Worn out one jack plane, grabbed a second one. Followed up with a Junior Jack as a smoother
![Plane Wood Tool Hardwood Art]()
After a while, all the planes went on "Break" and so did I. WHEW! Got three boards all S4S and then set them on top of the chest
![Wood Rectangle Gas Plank Composite material]()
to find out that I'm about an inch short of full width. Plus one board is a hair out of square. One end is a 1/2" wider than the other. Plan B. Add two pine accent strips for the right width. re-rip the one board to get it square.
Next up? After top top is completed ( might even show off the FRONT view) it will be time to make a saw til, and a sliding tray or two. I guess this is now a Tool Chest build….
Getting things put together, Finally!! Sides have been "fixed", front and back panels are done. Needed to drill some counter-bored pilot holes to assemble the sides to the front and back. Small forstner bit for a counter bore in the Drill press. Haul the slab of the front to the press, go to drill the first hole….table tilts! So, dig through the tool boxes, find the right sized wrench, and tilting table tilts no more. Got the front and backs drilled, time for some glue and screws
Here are the holes, about 3/8" diameter. Plugs will show up, later. Got the sides screwed to the front panel, and then added the rear panel
The long clamp on top is to pull the case square. Almost too big for the bench. Might as well sit this on the shop floor, and work on something else. Had a couple wide pine boards, cut them to the length to fit into the bottom of the chest. Already had 1×2 cleats for the bottom to be screwed to, so
A few #6×1" screws, no glue to add a bottom to the chest. There is an air-gap in the middle. More to allow expansion, and a way for any dust to leave. Had ONE more walnut plank in the shop. Cut it into three 4/4 by 6" by 28" boards. Very rough-sawn stuff. Lots of knots and dippity-dos aka cup. Laid them out to test the fit
Yep, very rough boards. So, grabbed a few hand planes and worked on the boards. Trying to get the edges straight ( yeah, right) and square. Used a big, old Stanley #31 Jointer plane. I will later have to work on it's iron, way too many knots. Got the three edges done, almost. ONE lousy edge has a serious area that will likely be a "Design Feature". Would have to plane away too much good wood to make that little area smooth.
Started on the faces of the boards. I have a "plane stop jig" made up to plane faces on. Just a slab of particle board with a cleat as a stop, plus a lower cleat to rest against the end of the workbench, one screw through the top cleat is a bit long. It is to go through the jig, and into the benchtop. With the lower cleat tight against the bench, screw the jig down. THEN I can lay a board on the jig, and plane away. Used a few Jack planes to scrub the roughness off the faces. Worn out one jack plane, grabbed a second one. Followed up with a Junior Jack as a smoother
After a while, all the planes went on "Break" and so did I. WHEW! Got three boards all S4S and then set them on top of the chest
to find out that I'm about an inch short of full width. Plus one board is a hair out of square. One end is a 1/2" wider than the other. Plan B. Add two pine accent strips for the right width. re-rip the one board to get it square.
Next up? After top top is completed ( might even show off the FRONT view) it will be time to make a saw til, and a sliding tray or two. I guess this is now a Tool Chest build….
Attachments
Your moving right along….Glue-ups!
Getting things put together, Finally!! Sides have been "fixed", front and back panels are done. Needed to drill some counter-bored pilot holes to assemble the sides to the front and back. Small forstner bit for a counter bore in the Drill press. Haul the slab of the front to the press, go to drill the first hole….table tilts! So, dig through the tool boxes, find the right sized wrench, and tilting table tilts no more. Got the front and backs drilled, time for some glue and screws![Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain Composite material]()
Here are the holes, about 3/8" diameter. Plugs will show up, later. Got the sides screwed to the front panel, and then added the rear panel![Wood Gas Machine Hardwood Plywood]()
The long clamp on top is to pull the case square. Almost too big for the bench. Might as well sit this on the shop floor, and work on something else. Had a couple wide pine boards, cut them to the length to fit into the bottom of the chest. Already had 1×2 cleats for the bottom to be screwed to, so![Wood Plant Wood stain Varnish Plank]()
A few #6×1" screws, no glue to add a bottom to the chest. There is an air-gap in the middle. More to allow expansion, and a way for any dust to leave. Had ONE more walnut plank in the shop. Cut it into three 4/4 by 6" by 28" boards. Very rough-sawn stuff. Lots of knots and dippity-dos aka cup. Laid them out to test the fit![Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Outdoor bench Wood stain]()
Yep, very rough boards. So, grabbed a few hand planes and worked on the boards. Trying to get the edges straight ( yeah, right) and square. Used a big, old Stanley #31 Jointer plane. I will later have to work on it's iron, way too many knots. Got the three edges done, almost. ONE lousy edge has a serious area that will likely be a "Design Feature". Would have to plane away too much good wood to make that little area smooth.
Started on the faces of the boards. I have a "plane stop jig" made up to plane faces on. Just a slab of particle board with a cleat as a stop, plus a lower cleat to rest against the end of the workbench, one screw through the top cleat is a bit long. It is to go through the jig, and into the benchtop. With the lower cleat tight against the bench, screw the jig down. THEN I can lay a board on the jig, and plane away. Used a few Jack planes to scrub the roughness off the faces. Worn out one jack plane, grabbed a second one. Followed up with a Junior Jack as a smoother![Plane Wood Tool Hardwood Art]()
After a while, all the planes went on "Break" and so did I. WHEW! Got three boards all S4S and then set them on top of the chest![Wood Rectangle Gas Plank Composite material]()
to find out that I'm about an inch short of full width. Plus one board is a hair out of square. One end is a 1/2" wider than the other. Plan B. Add two pine accent strips for the right width. re-rip the one board to get it square.
Next up? After top top is completed ( might even show off the FRONT view) it will be time to make a saw til, and a sliding tray or two. I guess this is now a Tool Chest build….
In the right direction, I hope!!!
If you are getting tired….
You could rest or….
Down a DEW!!!
The "pine design" fix, will tie the top to the bottom & back!!!
Sounds like a good plan to me!
Carry on….
Attachments
Looking good, Bandit!Glue-ups!
Getting things put together, Finally!! Sides have been "fixed", front and back panels are done. Needed to drill some counter-bored pilot holes to assemble the sides to the front and back. Small forstner bit for a counter bore in the Drill press. Haul the slab of the front to the press, go to drill the first hole….table tilts! So, dig through the tool boxes, find the right sized wrench, and tilting table tilts no more. Got the front and backs drilled, time for some glue and screws![Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain Composite material]()
Here are the holes, about 3/8" diameter. Plugs will show up, later. Got the sides screwed to the front panel, and then added the rear panel![Wood Gas Machine Hardwood Plywood]()
The long clamp on top is to pull the case square. Almost too big for the bench. Might as well sit this on the shop floor, and work on something else. Had a couple wide pine boards, cut them to the length to fit into the bottom of the chest. Already had 1×2 cleats for the bottom to be screwed to, so![Wood Plant Wood stain Varnish Plank]()
A few #6×1" screws, no glue to add a bottom to the chest. There is an air-gap in the middle. More to allow expansion, and a way for any dust to leave. Had ONE more walnut plank in the shop. Cut it into three 4/4 by 6" by 28" boards. Very rough-sawn stuff. Lots of knots and dippity-dos aka cup. Laid them out to test the fit![Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Outdoor bench Wood stain]()
Yep, very rough boards. So, grabbed a few hand planes and worked on the boards. Trying to get the edges straight ( yeah, right) and square. Used a big, old Stanley #31 Jointer plane. I will later have to work on it's iron, way too many knots. Got the three edges done, almost. ONE lousy edge has a serious area that will likely be a "Design Feature". Would have to plane away too much good wood to make that little area smooth.
Started on the faces of the boards. I have a "plane stop jig" made up to plane faces on. Just a slab of particle board with a cleat as a stop, plus a lower cleat to rest against the end of the workbench, one screw through the top cleat is a bit long. It is to go through the jig, and into the benchtop. With the lower cleat tight against the bench, screw the jig down. THEN I can lay a board on the jig, and plane away. Used a few Jack planes to scrub the roughness off the faces. Worn out one jack plane, grabbed a second one. Followed up with a Junior Jack as a smoother![Plane Wood Tool Hardwood Art]()
After a while, all the planes went on "Break" and so did I. WHEW! Got three boards all S4S and then set them on top of the chest![Wood Rectangle Gas Plank Composite material]()
to find out that I'm about an inch short of full width. Plus one board is a hair out of square. One end is a 1/2" wider than the other. Plan B. Add two pine accent strips for the right width. re-rip the one board to get it square.
Next up? After top top is completed ( might even show off the FRONT view) it will be time to make a saw til, and a sliding tray or two. I guess this is now a Tool Chest build….
Attachments
Took a rest, for awhile, downed half a case of Mountain Dews!Glue-ups!
Getting things put together, Finally!! Sides have been "fixed", front and back panels are done. Needed to drill some counter-bored pilot holes to assemble the sides to the front and back. Small forstner bit for a counter bore in the Drill press. Haul the slab of the front to the press, go to drill the first hole….table tilts! So, dig through the tool boxes, find the right sized wrench, and tilting table tilts no more. Got the front and backs drilled, time for some glue and screws![Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain Composite material]()
Here are the holes, about 3/8" diameter. Plugs will show up, later. Got the sides screwed to the front panel, and then added the rear panel![Wood Gas Machine Hardwood Plywood]()
The long clamp on top is to pull the case square. Almost too big for the bench. Might as well sit this on the shop floor, and work on something else. Had a couple wide pine boards, cut them to the length to fit into the bottom of the chest. Already had 1×2 cleats for the bottom to be screwed to, so![Wood Plant Wood stain Varnish Plank]()
A few #6×1" screws, no glue to add a bottom to the chest. There is an air-gap in the middle. More to allow expansion, and a way for any dust to leave. Had ONE more walnut plank in the shop. Cut it into three 4/4 by 6" by 28" boards. Very rough-sawn stuff. Lots of knots and dippity-dos aka cup. Laid them out to test the fit![Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Outdoor bench Wood stain]()
Yep, very rough boards. So, grabbed a few hand planes and worked on the boards. Trying to get the edges straight ( yeah, right) and square. Used a big, old Stanley #31 Jointer plane. I will later have to work on it's iron, way too many knots. Got the three edges done, almost. ONE lousy edge has a serious area that will likely be a "Design Feature". Would have to plane away too much good wood to make that little area smooth.
Started on the faces of the boards. I have a "plane stop jig" made up to plane faces on. Just a slab of particle board with a cleat as a stop, plus a lower cleat to rest against the end of the workbench, one screw through the top cleat is a bit long. It is to go through the jig, and into the benchtop. With the lower cleat tight against the bench, screw the jig down. THEN I can lay a board on the jig, and plane away. Used a few Jack planes to scrub the roughness off the faces. Worn out one jack plane, grabbed a second one. Followed up with a Junior Jack as a smoother![Plane Wood Tool Hardwood Art]()
After a while, all the planes went on "Break" and so did I. WHEW! Got three boards all S4S and then set them on top of the chest![Wood Rectangle Gas Plank Composite material]()
to find out that I'm about an inch short of full width. Plus one board is a hair out of square. One end is a 1/2" wider than the other. Plan B. Add two pine accent strips for the right width. re-rip the one board to get it square.
Next up? After top top is completed ( might even show off the FRONT view) it will be time to make a saw til, and a sliding tray or two. I guess this is now a Tool Chest build….
A saw til is now installed. The full length saws are too long to fit in the chest, so just the panel saws and back saws will go in.
Spent a while building ONE tray. It now rides on it's cleats, almost to over the saw til.
Chest is filling up with toys, er, tools, that's it, tools…
Attachments
Lid is installed
Amongst other things Laid out a few tools to install some hinges
![Wood Gas Tool Metal Hardwood]()
The scratch awl will mark the screw location, just a tap or two. Then run a steel screw in a bit. That way, a pilot hole is done. Marked out the hinge locations, using the hinge itself. Then a bit of chisel work on the top edge of the case
![Wood Gas Flooring Stairs Negative]()
Then pare away the waste. mark the screw holes with a pencil, use the awl to start a hole.. Used the locations on the case to lay out where they will go on the lid. First, I added a cleat to one end on the lid. Seems a crack just would not behave. Left a bit long, made a good handle to hold on to. Intsalled the hinges, and found out they were on backwards…oooops. Take them back off flip them over and install again. Turns out the screws supplied with the hinges were a tad long. Ground off a little of the point. As for the screws going in to the case, longer ones were ok. I had some 1" x #6 steel screws, worked just fine.
![Wood Gas Wood stain Hardwood Machine]()
Next. All those counter-bored screws needed plugs to cover them up. The seven on the edge of the lid were no problem. Lid was already sticking up in the air, just add a drop of glue and a plug. Tap down with the end of the mallet. As for the sides, all 30 of the holes needed something a little different done. Grabbed a scrap of wood, plopped down a large blob of glue. Moosh the plug around a bit, and install. Did make a mess of the end of the mallet
![Ingredient Food Wood Dish Cuisine]()
Afterwards, took a block plane to level the plugs out. About all the wood working is done here..
Oh yeah, a seal coat? One coat of clear poly gloss was slopped on, just to seal things up. Will go back later and add more if needed. For right now, though
![Wood Table Floor House Hardwood]()
raised panels on the ends are Sycamore. The front view?
![Table Cabinetry Wood Drawer Wood stain]()
Yep, there is that pine cleat. Might add another to the other end, except, they might be Walnut, instead. Now, as for that lid, remember, this is just the first coat
![Wood Table Hardwood Flooring Wood stain]()
Might just get this done, someday…...Thanks for looking in..
Amongst other things Laid out a few tools to install some hinges
The scratch awl will mark the screw location, just a tap or two. Then run a steel screw in a bit. That way, a pilot hole is done. Marked out the hinge locations, using the hinge itself. Then a bit of chisel work on the top edge of the case
Then pare away the waste. mark the screw holes with a pencil, use the awl to start a hole.. Used the locations on the case to lay out where they will go on the lid. First, I added a cleat to one end on the lid. Seems a crack just would not behave. Left a bit long, made a good handle to hold on to. Intsalled the hinges, and found out they were on backwards…oooops. Take them back off flip them over and install again. Turns out the screws supplied with the hinges were a tad long. Ground off a little of the point. As for the screws going in to the case, longer ones were ok. I had some 1" x #6 steel screws, worked just fine.
Next. All those counter-bored screws needed plugs to cover them up. The seven on the edge of the lid were no problem. Lid was already sticking up in the air, just add a drop of glue and a plug. Tap down with the end of the mallet. As for the sides, all 30 of the holes needed something a little different done. Grabbed a scrap of wood, plopped down a large blob of glue. Moosh the plug around a bit, and install. Did make a mess of the end of the mallet
Afterwards, took a block plane to level the plugs out. About all the wood working is done here..
Oh yeah, a seal coat? One coat of clear poly gloss was slopped on, just to seal things up. Will go back later and add more if needed. For right now, though
raised panels on the ends are Sycamore. The front view?
Yep, there is that pine cleat. Might add another to the other end, except, they might be Walnut, instead. Now, as for that lid, remember, this is just the first coat
Might just get this done, someday…...Thanks for looking in..
Attachments
Second coat of varnish is now dryingLid is installed
Amongst other things Laid out a few tools to install some hinges![Wood Gas Tool Metal Hardwood]()
The scratch awl will mark the screw location, just a tap or two. Then run a steel screw in a bit. That way, a pilot hole is done. Marked out the hinge locations, using the hinge itself. Then a bit of chisel work on the top edge of the case![Wood Gas Flooring Stairs Negative]()
Then pare away the waste. mark the screw holes with a pencil, use the awl to start a hole.. Used the locations on the case to lay out where they will go on the lid. First, I added a cleat to one end on the lid. Seems a crack just would not behave. Left a bit long, made a good handle to hold on to. Intsalled the hinges, and found out they were on backwards…oooops. Take them back off flip them over and install again. Turns out the screws supplied with the hinges were a tad long. Ground off a little of the point. As for the screws going in to the case, longer ones were ok. I had some 1" x #6 steel screws, worked just fine.![Wood Gas Wood stain Hardwood Machine]()
Next. All those counter-bored screws needed plugs to cover them up. The seven on the edge of the lid were no problem. Lid was already sticking up in the air, just add a drop of glue and a plug. Tap down with the end of the mallet. As for the sides, all 30 of the holes needed something a little different done. Grabbed a scrap of wood, plopped down a large blob of glue. Moosh the plug around a bit, and install. Did make a mess of the end of the mallet![Ingredient Food Wood Dish Cuisine]()
Afterwards, took a block plane to level the plugs out. About all the wood working is done here..
Oh yeah, a seal coat? One coat of clear poly gloss was slopped on, just to seal things up. Will go back later and add more if needed. For right now, though![Wood Table Floor House Hardwood]()
raised panels on the ends are Sycamore. The front view?![Table Cabinetry Wood Drawer Wood stain]()
Yep, there is that pine cleat. Might add another to the other end, except, they might be Walnut, instead. Now, as for that lid, remember, this is just the first coat![Wood Table Hardwood Flooring Wood stain]()
Might just get this done, someday…...Thanks for looking in..
Picked up a 1×12 to make a carry-tote tray. Might have that done by Weds. night.
Just about ready to post this as a Project.
Stay tuned…..
Attachments
Since this chest is nearly full….Lid is installed
Amongst other things Laid out a few tools to install some hinges![Wood Gas Tool Metal Hardwood]()
The scratch awl will mark the screw location, just a tap or two. Then run a steel screw in a bit. That way, a pilot hole is done. Marked out the hinge locations, using the hinge itself. Then a bit of chisel work on the top edge of the case![Wood Gas Flooring Stairs Negative]()
Then pare away the waste. mark the screw holes with a pencil, use the awl to start a hole.. Used the locations on the case to lay out where they will go on the lid. First, I added a cleat to one end on the lid. Seems a crack just would not behave. Left a bit long, made a good handle to hold on to. Intsalled the hinges, and found out they were on backwards…oooops. Take them back off flip them over and install again. Turns out the screws supplied with the hinges were a tad long. Ground off a little of the point. As for the screws going in to the case, longer ones were ok. I had some 1" x #6 steel screws, worked just fine.![Wood Gas Wood stain Hardwood Machine]()
Next. All those counter-bored screws needed plugs to cover them up. The seven on the edge of the lid were no problem. Lid was already sticking up in the air, just add a drop of glue and a plug. Tap down with the end of the mallet. As for the sides, all 30 of the holes needed something a little different done. Grabbed a scrap of wood, plopped down a large blob of glue. Moosh the plug around a bit, and install. Did make a mess of the end of the mallet![Ingredient Food Wood Dish Cuisine]()
Afterwards, took a block plane to level the plugs out. About all the wood working is done here..
Oh yeah, a seal coat? One coat of clear poly gloss was slopped on, just to seal things up. Will go back later and add more if needed. For right now, though![Wood Table Floor House Hardwood]()
raised panels on the ends are Sycamore. The front view?![Table Cabinetry Wood Drawer Wood stain]()
Yep, there is that pine cleat. Might add another to the other end, except, they might be Walnut, instead. Now, as for that lid, remember, this is just the first coat![Wood Table Hardwood Flooring Wood stain]()
Might just get this done, someday…...Thanks for looking in..
When will you be starting chest #2???
Attachments
tote tray
Ok, two coats of varnish on the chest, and rubbed out. Picked up a 1×10 pine scrap. Tray that is in the back is….ok, but could use one I can lift out and haul stuff around in. Measured the inside available area. Just about 25" long. Hmmm, a backsaw's tote sticks upa bit, so things got a little narrower. Measure the plank, an UGLY one at that
![Window Wood Cabinetry Shelving Gas]()
Figured I could get at least three 25" long slabs out of it. Clamped the plank to the bench, marked a line, and tried to cut a straight line with the circular saw. eh, not quite. Set up to rip a piece to the correct width
![Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain]()
The jig is an oldie, made as a fence for a Job Site tablesaw. measured over to allow for the width of the sole of the saw, draw a line, clamp the fence to it. Makes a nice straight line of a rip cut, IF one marks the line right. Needed two boards 3-1/2 by 25" long. Needed two at just under 6-1/2 long to go between them. Used a Wards #78 to make rebates on some of the sides, all four edges on the bottom plank. It is 6-1/2 wide by 25". Rebates are 3/4 wide by 3/8" deep.
![Wood Gas Machine Metal Auto part]()
Installed the long sides into their rebates with glue and screws. Found out, while making shallow counter-bores for the screws, that a 3/8" Forstner drill bit is not a good tool to trim a thumbnail with. Needed to move a board just a hair, and the bit caught the thumbnail. No blood, though, sorry.
Now, the short end pieces. To house a central handle for the tote, I needed a couple stopped dados. one on each end. Laid out a 3" high by 3/4" wide, by 3/8" deep dado.
![Wood Tool Table Wood stain Hardwood]()
Had to make sure the other piece was a mirror image, so they would line up. Just the old MK II eyeball gauge to find a place close to the center. Backsaw to saw the waste a bit, then a bunch of chisel work to get things flat in there. WHEW!. Screwed ONE end piece into it's new home. Needed to find the exact length for the handle. Used a sabresaw to cut out the main parts of the handle. Finger holes…..ah, maybe I can trust a larger Forstner bit? Got out an 1-3/8" one, drill a few overlapping holes, and smoothed things out a bit, thumbnail inttact, this time. Chucked up a 3/8" round-over bit into the router. And, without snapping the bit this time, rounded all the edges on the handle. Installed the handle into the tote, added the other end piece, screwed things into place. Now it is ready to be loaded up.
![Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Lumber]()
Take a good look, this is about the only time it will ever be empty, again. Placed the tote in to the Tool Chest
![Wood Natural material Hardwood Plank Wood stain]()
Well, well, where did those tools come from? Anyway, even the lid will close, too
![Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas]()
Still have to find a length of chain to keep the lid from going to far over, but, I think it is DONE, for now
Thanks for following along…....
Ok, two coats of varnish on the chest, and rubbed out. Picked up a 1×10 pine scrap. Tray that is in the back is….ok, but could use one I can lift out and haul stuff around in. Measured the inside available area. Just about 25" long. Hmmm, a backsaw's tote sticks upa bit, so things got a little narrower. Measure the plank, an UGLY one at that
Figured I could get at least three 25" long slabs out of it. Clamped the plank to the bench, marked a line, and tried to cut a straight line with the circular saw. eh, not quite. Set up to rip a piece to the correct width
The jig is an oldie, made as a fence for a Job Site tablesaw. measured over to allow for the width of the sole of the saw, draw a line, clamp the fence to it. Makes a nice straight line of a rip cut, IF one marks the line right. Needed two boards 3-1/2 by 25" long. Needed two at just under 6-1/2 long to go between them. Used a Wards #78 to make rebates on some of the sides, all four edges on the bottom plank. It is 6-1/2 wide by 25". Rebates are 3/4 wide by 3/8" deep.
Installed the long sides into their rebates with glue and screws. Found out, while making shallow counter-bores for the screws, that a 3/8" Forstner drill bit is not a good tool to trim a thumbnail with. Needed to move a board just a hair, and the bit caught the thumbnail. No blood, though, sorry.
Now, the short end pieces. To house a central handle for the tote, I needed a couple stopped dados. one on each end. Laid out a 3" high by 3/4" wide, by 3/8" deep dado.
Had to make sure the other piece was a mirror image, so they would line up. Just the old MK II eyeball gauge to find a place close to the center. Backsaw to saw the waste a bit, then a bunch of chisel work to get things flat in there. WHEW!. Screwed ONE end piece into it's new home. Needed to find the exact length for the handle. Used a sabresaw to cut out the main parts of the handle. Finger holes…..ah, maybe I can trust a larger Forstner bit? Got out an 1-3/8" one, drill a few overlapping holes, and smoothed things out a bit, thumbnail inttact, this time. Chucked up a 3/8" round-over bit into the router. And, without snapping the bit this time, rounded all the edges on the handle. Installed the handle into the tote, added the other end piece, screwed things into place. Now it is ready to be loaded up.
Take a good look, this is about the only time it will ever be empty, again. Placed the tote in to the Tool Chest
Well, well, where did those tools come from? Anyway, even the lid will close, too
Still have to find a length of chain to keep the lid from going to far over, but, I think it is DONE, for now
Thanks for following along…....
Attachments
Might have to make something to hold all those chisels in. Right now they are just sitting in there, loose. We'll see what I can conjure up….tote tray
Ok, two coats of varnish on the chest, and rubbed out. Picked up a 1×10 pine scrap. Tray that is in the back is….ok, but could use one I can lift out and haul stuff around in. Measured the inside available area. Just about 25" long. Hmmm, a backsaw's tote sticks upa bit, so things got a little narrower. Measure the plank, an UGLY one at that![Window Wood Cabinetry Shelving Gas]()
Figured I could get at least three 25" long slabs out of it. Clamped the plank to the bench, marked a line, and tried to cut a straight line with the circular saw. eh, not quite. Set up to rip a piece to the correct width![Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain]()
The jig is an oldie, made as a fence for a Job Site tablesaw. measured over to allow for the width of the sole of the saw, draw a line, clamp the fence to it. Makes a nice straight line of a rip cut, IF one marks the line right. Needed two boards 3-1/2 by 25" long. Needed two at just under 6-1/2 long to go between them. Used a Wards #78 to make rebates on some of the sides, all four edges on the bottom plank. It is 6-1/2 wide by 25". Rebates are 3/4 wide by 3/8" deep.![Wood Gas Machine Metal Auto part]()
Installed the long sides into their rebates with glue and screws. Found out, while making shallow counter-bores for the screws, that a 3/8" Forstner drill bit is not a good tool to trim a thumbnail with. Needed to move a board just a hair, and the bit caught the thumbnail. No blood, though, sorry.
Now, the short end pieces. To house a central handle for the tote, I needed a couple stopped dados. one on each end. Laid out a 3" high by 3/4" wide, by 3/8" deep dado.![Wood Tool Table Wood stain Hardwood]()
Had to make sure the other piece was a mirror image, so they would line up. Just the old MK II eyeball gauge to find a place close to the center. Backsaw to saw the waste a bit, then a bunch of chisel work to get things flat in there. WHEW!. Screwed ONE end piece into it's new home. Needed to find the exact length for the handle. Used a sabresaw to cut out the main parts of the handle. Finger holes…..ah, maybe I can trust a larger Forstner bit? Got out an 1-3/8" one, drill a few overlapping holes, and smoothed things out a bit, thumbnail inttact, this time. Chucked up a 3/8" round-over bit into the router. And, without snapping the bit this time, rounded all the edges on the handle. Installed the handle into the tote, added the other end piece, screwed things into place. Now it is ready to be loaded up.![Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Lumber]()
Take a good look, this is about the only time it will ever be empty, again. Placed the tote in to the Tool Chest![Wood Natural material Hardwood Plank Wood stain]()
Well, well, where did those tools come from? Anyway, even the lid will close, too![Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas]()
Still have to find a length of chain to keep the lid from going to far over, but, I think it is DONE, for now
Thanks for following along…....
Attachments
Bandit, amazing what y'all come up with from scraps, NICE work bud !tote tray
Ok, two coats of varnish on the chest, and rubbed out. Picked up a 1×10 pine scrap. Tray that is in the back is….ok, but could use one I can lift out and haul stuff around in. Measured the inside available area. Just about 25" long. Hmmm, a backsaw's tote sticks upa bit, so things got a little narrower. Measure the plank, an UGLY one at that![Window Wood Cabinetry Shelving Gas]()
Figured I could get at least three 25" long slabs out of it. Clamped the plank to the bench, marked a line, and tried to cut a straight line with the circular saw. eh, not quite. Set up to rip a piece to the correct width![Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain]()
The jig is an oldie, made as a fence for a Job Site tablesaw. measured over to allow for the width of the sole of the saw, draw a line, clamp the fence to it. Makes a nice straight line of a rip cut, IF one marks the line right. Needed two boards 3-1/2 by 25" long. Needed two at just under 6-1/2 long to go between them. Used a Wards #78 to make rebates on some of the sides, all four edges on the bottom plank. It is 6-1/2 wide by 25". Rebates are 3/4 wide by 3/8" deep.![Wood Gas Machine Metal Auto part]()
Installed the long sides into their rebates with glue and screws. Found out, while making shallow counter-bores for the screws, that a 3/8" Forstner drill bit is not a good tool to trim a thumbnail with. Needed to move a board just a hair, and the bit caught the thumbnail. No blood, though, sorry.
Now, the short end pieces. To house a central handle for the tote, I needed a couple stopped dados. one on each end. Laid out a 3" high by 3/4" wide, by 3/8" deep dado.![Wood Tool Table Wood stain Hardwood]()
Had to make sure the other piece was a mirror image, so they would line up. Just the old MK II eyeball gauge to find a place close to the center. Backsaw to saw the waste a bit, then a bunch of chisel work to get things flat in there. WHEW!. Screwed ONE end piece into it's new home. Needed to find the exact length for the handle. Used a sabresaw to cut out the main parts of the handle. Finger holes…..ah, maybe I can trust a larger Forstner bit? Got out an 1-3/8" one, drill a few overlapping holes, and smoothed things out a bit, thumbnail inttact, this time. Chucked up a 3/8" round-over bit into the router. And, without snapping the bit this time, rounded all the edges on the handle. Installed the handle into the tote, added the other end piece, screwed things into place. Now it is ready to be loaded up.![Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Lumber]()
Take a good look, this is about the only time it will ever be empty, again. Placed the tote in to the Tool Chest![Wood Natural material Hardwood Plank Wood stain]()
Well, well, where did those tools come from? Anyway, even the lid will close, too![Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas]()
Still have to find a length of chain to keep the lid from going to far over, but, I think it is DONE, for now
Thanks for following along…....
Attachments
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